Good advice on the TDC - the times I have seen backfires on a new engine start, it has been because the distributor was 180 degrees out. Lighting off the fuel in the cylinder w/ the exhaust valve open causes the backfire.
Wes
Not quite enough info, but here's some tips
Hi, jikelly--
From what you've said, it seems like you're close, but not quite there.
First off, I haven't read any other threads where you've perhaps posted information regarding what kind of distributor you're running.
You also didn't indicate whether you're aware that the cylinder numbers are 1-4 on the right (passenger) side, and 5-8 on the left (driver's) side, but I'll assume that you are.
Most everybody these days is running some type of electronic distributor, so I'll gear my comments toward that.
Here are the steps that have always helped me get my distributor in correctly:
1.) Pull the #1 plug (passenger side, first plug)
2.) Remove the coil wire from the distributor
3.) Place your thumb over the spark plug holehole, and with a remote start switch, bump the engine over until the force of the compresson blows your thumb off the hole
4.) Using a socket, turn the crank clockwise until the timing mark lines up
5.) Pull the distributor cap and check the location of the rotor
The rotation of the rotor is COUNTER-clockwise, so if your rotor is on or past the # 1 spark plug wire location (when rotating in that direction), try rotating the distributor counter-clockwise a bit.
If the rotor is exactly at the location for the #1 plug wire, then follow these steps:
1.) Turn your crank until the timing mark is exactly at 10-degrees
2.) Put the distributor cap back on the distributor
3.) Re-insert the coil wire into the distributor cap
4.) Insert the #1 plug into the #1 plug wire, and ground the electrode
5.) With the key on, slowly move the distributor body clockwise until the #1 spark plug fires
6.) Lock down the distributor, and your initial timing will be set at 10-degrees (you can change it with a timing light later)
If the rotor isn't even close, remove the distributor and try inserting it again, and then follow the steps above.
If the timing *IS* currently correct, then you probably have some lifters that are too tight . . . you might try loosening them up a bit (if they're adjustable, of course), and see if the engine will start.
Just some stuff for you to try from an old-timer . . .
Hi, jikelly--
From what you've said, it seems like you're close, but not quite there.
First off, I haven't read any other threads where you've perhaps posted information regarding what kind of distributor you're running.
You also didn't indicate whether you're aware that the cylinder numbers are 1-4 on the right (passenger) side, and 5-8 on the left (driver's) side, but I'll assume that you are.
Most everybody these days is running some type of electronic distributor, so I'll gear my comments toward that.
Here are the steps that have always helped me get my distributor in correctly:
1.) Pull the #1 plug (passenger side, first plug)
2.) Remove the coil wire from the distributor
3.) Place your thumb over the spark plug holehole, and with a remote start switch, bump the engine over until the force of the compresson blows your thumb off the hole
4.) Using a socket, turn the crank clockwise until the timing mark lines up
5.) Pull the distributor cap and check the location of the rotor
The rotation of the rotor is COUNTER-clockwise, so if your rotor is on or past the # 1 spark plug wire location (when rotating in that direction), try rotating the distributor counter-clockwise a bit.
If the rotor is exactly at the location for the #1 plug wire, then follow these steps:
1.) Turn your crank until the timing mark is exactly at 10-degrees
2.) Put the distributor cap back on the distributor
3.) Re-insert the coil wire into the distributor cap
4.) Insert the #1 plug into the #1 plug wire, and ground the electrode
5.) With the key on, slowly move the distributor body clockwise until the #1 spark plug fires
6.) Lock down the distributor, and your initial timing will be set at 10-degrees (you can change it with a timing light later)
If the rotor isn't even close, remove the distributor and try inserting it again, and then follow the steps above.
If the timing *IS* currently correct, then you probably have some lifters that are too tight . . . you might try loosening them up a bit (if they're adjustable, of course), and see if the engine will start.
Just some stuff for you to try from an old-timer . . .
Good info. Instead of using my thumb to plug up the #1 plug hole, I stuff a shop rag in the hole with a screwdriver. When the cylinder comes up to the top compression stroke, the rag pops out and makes quite a loud sound. There's more ways to kill a cat than one.
Ditto on the straw and NIX the screwdriver idea...
As for compression, even with brand new rings you should still get enough of a seal to get a compression reading. It wouldn't be expected to to be reliable but it should be able to measure. The rings would seat and the compression would rise after some break-in.
My thoughts are that if you aren't seeing much of a psi from the compression tester, then you're valves are staying open too long or not long enough. Check you lifters and rockers and even the push rods to make sure everythings working as it should.
And even some random oddball thought, how much overlap do you have on you cam? Or even an incorrect gap on the rings. But check the easiest fixes first.
Example on compression: My most recent engine build was my jetski engine. Fresh build started with 100psi and after 10 hours of breakin reached it's final and correct high of 150psi. So as you can see, even a fresh build should show compression.
glad to hear you got it figured out J. Dhearne, you do need to make that trip so you can see the 69 GT coupe in all it's glory. she's running and driving now but i have some work to do on the suspension to get it aligned right, need to play with the shims i put on the UCA's to be able to get the alignment right, it's close but we ran out of adjustment a little shy of the caster numbers it needs.
shott me an email or PM next time you're out this way