thermostat ?

As Ray says - follow the upper radiator hose to where it connects to the engine. Where it connects is the t'stat housing. If you drain the system, and then remove the two hoses that connect to it (the upper radiator hose, and the smaller bypass hose) - then loosen those two bolts - remove the housing - and the thermostat will usually fall out. If you replace it, be sure to put the spring-side towards the engine - not towards the radiator.
 
HISSIN50 said:
i would NOT endorse doing this.

Glad someone else caught that to. I am by no means as educated on the eec system as Rick and Michael, but from my own experience my car runs a lot better once it is warmed up that it does cold. And I agree with Hissin starting your car dead cold in the morning letting it idle for 10 seconds and then driving the hell out of it isn't a very good idea.
 
The Shape said:
starting your car dead cold in the morning letting it idle for 10 seconds and then driving the hell out of it isn't a very good idea.

Again this shows Raph130's unknowingness...and the validness that was never there or became loss...

Raph130 - Your original post about the t-stat myth - You just said that "there is no way in hell that with a 160* t-stat or any temperature t-stat or even without a t-stat should you get overheating or erratic temperature if done the correct way"...YOU did not include the rest of the cooling system problems as Michael did and then you tried to turn it around on your next comical post by somehow "slipping" in the cooling system problems besides the T-stat...you think we fall for that?

Your poor poor cars... :(
 
I think Stant thermostats are **** personally. I've had them no work right out of the box, others do not open at the correct temp. I have started boiling them to make sure they open before they get installed.

The Mr.Gasket or Stewart Components Hi-Flows are very nice.
 
Rick 91GT said:
I think Stant thermostats are **** personally. I've had them no work right out of the box, others do not open at the correct temp. I have started boiling them to make sure they open before they get installed.

The Mr.Gasket or Stewart Components Hi-Flows are very nice.
Rick, i was trying to be subtle in my first post, you aren't. LOL. i have no experience with the Stewart products, but the Mr G's are nice pieces, IMHO (im sure the Stewarts are too - just cant get them locally that i have found). i dont like generic stats myself.

Raph, why do you not have a properly functioning fan assembly?
 
I've never done anything other than going to the parts store and saying "I need a X degree F t'stat for a "fill in the year/model" car. In 35 years, I've had one fail. And luckily, it failed open.

I did find a t'stat in the size to fit our cars (54mm) for an Infinity of some sort (years back) in a 170F temp. Used it for a while when I was searching for something between a 160 and a 180.

However, if they don't have an air bleed valve, I always drill a small hole and place it at 12 o'clock to help air escape the system when filling. Mine has a resevoir above the highest part of the radiator so mine fills right up with no burping - the first time.
 
The first stant I ever bought was just like Rick said crap right out of the box. It was the stock 195* but when I went to complain/exchange it all they had at the parts store was stant no Mr. Gasket so since I knew the stants were notorious for opening hotter that they were supposed to I went with the 180* to be safe. With this one my gauge sets exactly on 180* in the winter and maybe up to 195* if idling a long time in the summer. Next time I service it I will order the Mr. Gasket however. That one bolt is a PITA so I don't want to take a chance on having to do it twice again.
 
Michael, i am surprised. pick one up at a speed shop sometime and compare it to a parts store variety. not even funny. parts store unit looks like poo, the Mr G is like jewelry. fully balanced, opens fully sooner and has a bleed hole. i know these features dont matter to your overengineered ride, but i have more confidence in the Mr G.


Raph, nice answer. that makes sense and if you dont have issues, good luck with it.
 
Michael Yount said:
What does 'fully balanced' mean?
i dont have what i often refer to as a 'Yount-like understanding' of it, but here goes a little bit.

the balanced stats are much more consistant - they open repeatedly within a degree or two of the specified temp. they use some sort of port designs (shrouding around the wax button, etc) which allow for more equal pressure around the wax button. this allows for more consistancy, even in high RPM and high water-flow situations (where other stats sometimes get funky).

i bet Rick might know more for ya. :nice: