???~Thickness of Ford raciung Aluminum rad???

monte87

Founding Member
Feb 26, 2001
876
18
49
new york
Hey Guys~

As some of you know, My 2nd FLUIDYNE took a crap on my last week. I was going to buy a Go-DAN 433138 3 core copper/brass rad, But pep boys has now raised there price to $266 in NY state for some strange reason.
So-I have decided to buy the FORD RACING Aluminum core, plastic end tanks RAD, its going for $265 on summit. There end tanks are epoxied, which im not to thrilled about, but then again my FLUIDYNE's end tanks were welded and that leaked. Im runnign a MARKVIII fan-So clearence is an isue for me, With my Fluidyne im clearing the water pump with like 1/4 inch, So any new total WIDTH RAD would have be no more bigger than 2 1/4 inch thick.
My question is if anyone has the FORD RACING (FMS-8005-C) RAD, What is the total thickness size of the RAD, no one seems to post these measurements at all, And i really need to know. I mean-It states 14 fins per square inch, But yet-Dont state how big are the tubes? If anyone knows any of this 411, Can you please share it with me, i would greatly appreicate it.

Many Thanks-Anthony:flag:
 
Well the body of the rad the actual core itself is 2.5 inchs wide. I guess the sides where the hose mounts could be where they are getting the extra width from?? Mine is a 3 core Ford racing aluminum rad for the fox mustang. I have had it for 6 years with no problems.
 
Well the body of the rad the actual core itself is 2.5 inchs wide. I guess the sides where the hose mounts could be where they are getting the extra width from?? Mine is a 3 core Ford racing aluminum rad for the fox mustang. I have had it for 6 years with no problems.

hey thanks anyways for your help-
I appreciate you replying. I ordered a Go-Dan 433138 which is now called PROLIANCE on rockauto for 3 core copper/brass, 2 inch width for temporary use while i get the FLuidyne repaired. Not bad it $151.00 i also purchased some new lower radiator insulators from Laurel mustang, not bad $19.95 for all 4. Although-I dont use the uppers, I have a UPR aluminum cover.

Later Ant:nice: :flag:
~SEMPER FI~
 
i was under the idea that aluminum disipates ( sp ) heat faster which is also an added benifit of going to an aluminum radatior

You maybe right but only if the aluminum rad is aluminum brazed. Pount for pound copper dissipates heat 1.6 times better then aluminum. Thats being said copper rads are not just copper they are made of copper brass and other metal. So the heat actually has to travel through 3 types of metal. This slows the process down. If however the aluminum rad is not solid aluminum ( fines coolant tubes etc etc etc) then the copper/brass rad will out perform it.
 
I can tell yout his much,
Give me about a week or so-And i'll let ytou guys know-which rad works better, the FLUIDYNE aluminum 2 core vs. GDI 3 core copper/brass. I know by heart whereaboiut my temp needles stays. My set up is:
EDELBROCK HI FLOW W/P
FLUIDYNE RAD OR GDI
MKVIII E-FAN
TEMP SENSOR 200 ON/185 OFF SWICTH
180 T-STAT MR GASKET
70/30 MIX ANTI-FREEZE
2 BOTTLE OF WATER WETTER

that bicth would sit @ 185 all day long in bumper to bumper traffic, A/C on sitting idling, So if there is any idff, i will know. i will share my findings with all. because nothign will chnage except the RAD.

Later Anthony

P.S. The only reason i bought the fluidyne was because i thought it was the best and wanted the best the first time out, and plus the BLINg factor.
 
Hey guys-

This weekend-i swapped out the busted leaking fluidyne and replaed it with the GDI 433138 3 core copper/brass unit, and drove around and watched the temp gauge pretty much the entire day, trying all driving methods-and i must say, and hate to admit it-But the Fluidyne does cool better. the copper/brass heats up quicker and it uses the E-fan a bit more as well, whereas the fluidyne would literally hold the temp constant sitting for a while longer without the use of the E-fan.
Thought you guys would want to know-
Later Ant