• Mustang Forums
  • 2005 - 2014 S-197 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • 2005 - 2009 Specific Tech

Things you should know about hood pins

  • Thread starter Thread starter nancegt350
  • Start date Start date Sep 27, 2006
N

nancegt350

New Member
Sep 22, 2006
28
0
0
Sep 27, 2006
#1
  • Sep 27, 2006
  • #1
I just finished the hood pin install on my '06 gt last night, these are just a few key points I thought I'd put out there for anyone thinking of doing it (if you have hood shake, this WILL fix it - my hood doesn't MOVE at 130).

  • The Ford Racing Kit looks the best (IMO)
  • But, the pins that go through your hood with the FRPP aren't long enough, go by and pick yourself up a $10 kit at AutoZone and use JUST the pins from it, everything else yo can use from the FRPP (except screws of course)
  • A step bit make a wonderfully smooth hole in the hood, start with a 1/4 and then bore it with the step bit
  • The easiest install is drill and tap the radiator support and then simply screw the pins into it and put a nut on top
  • You may need to go through the bottom side of the support too, depending on how long the pins you buy are - but tapping it is only necessary on the top
  • Make sure you drill your holes perpendicular to the hood's plane - the hole are NOT straight down
  • Lowes had the drill and tap set you need for the radiator support (1/2" and either 13 or 20 thread depending on which set of pins you get - but they should all be 1/2")
  • While you're there pick up 8 #6 pan head 5/8" inch ss screws - you need them - the screws that hold the plates to either side of your hood are not long enough
  • SEAL YOUR HOOD. The hood is two layers, some people say use a grommet, some people say use a rubber hose glued to either side. THE BEST WAY is to take some RTV adhesive sealant (available anywhere - walmart, autozone, etc...) and run a bead around the inside of your holes, between the two layers of the hood - let dry - and then do it again. Use a flat head screw driver to push the foam that comes between the layers of your hood from the factory back so that you can get a thick application of rtv.
  • PAINT BARE METAL. Pick you up some touch up paint while you're at autozone. After you finish drilling your holes, go back over all exposed bare metal that was previously painted with that touch up paint and allow to dry
  • Have plenty of alcohol on had if you're a nervous person - can't describe the feeling when you first see a bit come through the hood of your new car.

Seriously though, don't be afraid to do this yourself, just take your time, follow some good directions (like the ones in my other post), and try not to cry. When it's over, it looks really good, IMO.

OOH and if anyone has any advice - I need to wash my car tonight ... as of early this morning there were still some metal shavings on it, on the paint. I don't know after my drive to work, the 130mph windtunnel might have got them off. But, I was wondering if anyone had any advice to making sure the metal shavings are COMPLETELY off before I wash it this afternoon?? Any advice would be appreciated.
 
O

OsirisGT

Member
Nov 12, 2005
60
1
9
San Diego
Sep 27, 2006
#2
  • Sep 27, 2006
  • #2
I'd use masking tape on the front end of the car for the metal shavings issue. Blue painters tape should work fine.
 

Marine One

New Member
Jan 28, 2004
276
1
0
North Topsail Beach, NC
Sep 27, 2006
#3
  • Sep 27, 2006
  • #3
Pictures??
 

kooldawg6

mine works really well and can take a fair amount
Aug 31, 2006
1,679
2
38
Central VA
Sep 27, 2006
#4
  • Sep 27, 2006
  • #4
Nancegt350, how about standing by the wheel and use a hard blast from the water hose to push them off the front??? Just a thought... Thanks for the install tips btw!!! I WILL be putting them on mine when I figure out which hood to get and when.
 

anthony05gt

Active Member
Mar 18, 2006
1,262
1
37
Maryland
Sep 27, 2006
#5
  • Sep 27, 2006
  • #5
The FRPP pins are long enough. Drilling and tapping the thin radiator support steel is not strong enough. I suggest using the outer hood height adjuster holes. I took a dremel and made the holes slightly larger so a washer and nut can be dropped down inside the rad support. Then the pin has a nut inside and outside of the support for strength and the proper height for the pin. It's a little tough to do, but it works great and it's strong as hell. I also used a hole saw to drill through the hood, but a step drill is fine. I also did not use the bottom plates supplied with the FRPP kit. Don't need them. Just ran the screws into the top layer of the hood.
 
N

nancegt350

New Member
Sep 22, 2006
28
0
0
Sep 29, 2006
#6
  • Sep 29, 2006
  • #6
Ok you're right. Screw tapping the top radiator support - I had to go back last night and pull the front bumper off and drill the bottom radiator support to put a nut in on the bottom of the pin . Not really a problem, just aggrivating. Very easy to pull the front bumper though, and now the pins are perfect and much more stable. Anyone considering doing this, go for it, it's easy - just don't tap the radiator support, drill through both sides and bore the bottom hole out to fit a nut through it.
 

Saleen-wana-be

New Member
May 4, 2006
51
0
0
Sep 29, 2006
#7
  • Sep 29, 2006
  • #7
anyone have pics of what your talking about, when i get my carbon fiber hood i'll need to do this.
 
O

official_style

New Member
Apr 18, 2005
261
0
0
Sep 29, 2006
#8
  • Sep 29, 2006
  • #8
the stock hood is aluminum, so i wouldnt worry about touching up the paint so it wont rust!
 

bigcat

start with the upper hole, and if more traction is
May 1, 2005
3,015
1
79
7200 feet
Sep 29, 2006
#9
  • Sep 29, 2006
  • #9
still corrodes....
 
O

official_style

New Member
Apr 18, 2005
261
0
0
Sep 29, 2006
#10
  • Sep 29, 2006
  • #10
o well, i thought it wouldnt, i got the cervinis anyways, so i dont have to worry
 

Henceforward

The Avatar Master
Founding Member
Jul 17, 2001
485
0
0
Sep 29, 2006
#11
  • Sep 29, 2006
  • #11
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
Convertible A-pillar weatherstrip issues
  • thiefofcheese
  • Oct 24, 2025
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
2
Views
339
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Nov 20, 2025
AeroCoupe
Drivetrain 83’ Glx convertible C5 Trans help!
  • JacksonJared2113
  • Dec 25, 2025
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
2
Views
384
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Dec 26, 2025
JacksonJared2113
M
Progress Thread mnky99 2001 V6 evap core, ac compressor, heater core replacement
  • mnky99
  • Sep 5, 2025
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
Replies
1
Views
494
1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- Sep 5, 2025
mnky99
M
SN95 Desktop 363 Engine Combination - Looking for input
  • WhiteCobra95
  • Sep 8, 2025
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
11
Views
1K
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Oct 6, 2025
Habu135
E
Finished my Fox Hydroboost Install - Tips
  • Engineer Duane
  • Apr 9, 2025
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
4
Views
1K
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- May 5, 2025
Engineer Duane
E
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 2005 - 2014 S-197 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • 2005 - 2009 Specific Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?