Be ready to pay double for a cam because you will need a small base circle grind, then be ready to have the new cam reground because the lifters contact the dog bones, pushing them up at the top of the lift rotation. Have a dial indicator ready so the cam grinders know how much to remove. Be prepared to use a die grinder on the dog bones when they don't lie flat between the lifters due to irregular block casting. Be careful when you drill and tap the block for the spider, you could break-off the tap. You will need to have new cam bearings installed either way. Wince as you tighten the bolts that hold down the spider as you worry about driving them through the new cam bearings. Have an adjustable pushrod ready so you can find the new pushrod length. The distributor gear must be changed to a steel one, so be ready to take it back to the machine shop when they install the gear too high or too low on the distributor shaft. Be ready to degree-in your cam several times before and after the regrind. Did I leave anything out?
I haven't even addressed what you need to do to get a windage tray to fit in a foxbody oil pan...
Think about just buying aftermarket roller lifters...
Yeah, Al. I had to take the cam out to have .035 removed from all the lobes. I'm still looking for that elusive 106* centeriline... 107* looks good at this point. I've rotated this engine by hand to such an extent, the rings are probably already seated.
I haven't even addressed what you need to do to get a windage tray to fit in a foxbody oil pan...
Think about just buying aftermarket roller lifters...
Yeah, Al. I had to take the cam out to have .035 removed from all the lobes. I'm still looking for that elusive 106* centeriline... 107* looks good at this point. I've rotated this engine by hand to such an extent, the rings are probably already seated.