Bought an engine for my project

2stroke1971

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Dec 16, 2016
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I bought an 89 mustang GT that had been in the family (one of my kids). I am going to pull the engine to address the shock towers. It ran alright, original 145,000 miles. Body is dented and dinged but I bought the replacement fenders etc already.

I was going to at least rebuild the motor since I had to pull it anyway… and I thought about a stroker kit, but budget was a concern. I could have bought the kit itself, but that would have taken the rest of the money I have set aside at this time. I’d have bought the rest / paid for the machine work over time. Still the way I am it would have taken a long long time. I have too many irons in the fire, and not enough $$.

So I pulled the trigger on an engine I found on marketplace. It was $1800, about what I was going to pay for a pre balanced stroker kit.

It was built back in 2007 and never used. I have receipts from the machine shop for $900 total though it isn’t itemized. Just showing the guy who had it done paid in three installments. Also some Summit receipts etc.

The guy I bought it from got it years ago with a project he never got around to.

It is a 1974 302 block which might not be ideal but for what I want I think it should do.

Speed pro HT16 pistons

New Windsor junior heads built with some flat faced valves, o-rings etc.

High energy mild street cam, don’t have the specs with me. I need to look up the heads and pistons and see what compression I will be looking at.

Only the short block has been assembled, the rest of the stuff is in the factory boxes.

It also came with a lot of other new parts: one wire distributor, a nice pair of headers, ford racing valve covers, new lifters, rod guides, erp studs and a new edelbrock intake manifold although it’s for a carb and I want to keep fuel injection I think.

In any case I know it’s not a roller block etc…but I’m not looking to get massive horsepower out of it. I think for the money, it was a good move for me.

So now some questions:

In using this old 1974 block with my fuel injection set up, (or gt40 intake if I get one) what do I need to consider ?

I won’t have any emissions crap on it…but I was going to trash all that even if I rebuilt the stock engine.

It seems like this engine will have a bit more compression than my stock one…and then there is the mild cam. Will the engine computer be able to run that setup without re tuning or whatever you do in these cases?

So basically it would be like taking a stock 1989 setup and replacing everything but the fuel / intake system.

Thanks in advance for any advice or comments !
 
Do you happen to know if the crank in this motor is setup for the HO firing order?
Ahh….
I guess that would depend on the cam. I looked the cam up earlier at home and I got the specs…don’t have them with me now (at work )

Once I look at what the cam details again and see what it is meant for, I should be able to tell from there.

I guess the existing fuel system/engine management will be totally lost if it’s not going to run the ho order.

I “could” use a 4 barrel but I’d like to keep what gas mileage I can.

Great point and thanks !
 
Yes, cam dictates firing order. If you intend to reuse the serpentine setup then make sure the new motor has the correct timing chain cover for the required reverse rotation water pump.

If the short block has been put together since 2007 I would pull the pan to:
1) check the main and rod bearings and if good then use new assembly lube on them
2) most likely put a new oil pump in it but that is just me
3) if the cam is installed then remove, inspect the bearings, and use new assembly lube to reinstall
4) inspect the timing chain, reinstall, and time the cam

It's just a long time to sit and basically I do not trust anyone but the guy that builds my motors.
 
Say the engine has a non-HO cam, what is stopping you from just switching around the plug wires and injector harness to match the firing order?

I think that works but not perfectly, for some reason. I don't recall much beyond that as I've never been in that situation. I think it had to do with the O2 sensors vs. the non-HO firing order vs. injector firing pattern.

Maybe this rings a bell for somebody?
 
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Newby here to fords, but when I was doing my engine some information I read said the NON HO 289/302 engines last two cylinders firing order is 7-8, which can cause problems with the spark plug wires misfiring due to conduction.....
 
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AHH I like it...
DSCF1357.webp
 
Theres so nuch youd hsve to change for the efi to work that ots not worth it ( in my opinion ). If it were me a carburetor would be going on that engine. I'd save the efi parts for building another engine over time. Why reinvent the wheel when you could be good to go right now ? My carbureted 89 convertible got 27mpg o the highway cruising at 72mph with a t5 and 3.73 gears. Used an edel rock dual plain intake and an edelbrock 600cfm carb. Had an e303 camshaft and ported e7 stock heads with bigger valves.

Most people over fuel carbureted cars. If its a mild cam a 500cfm carburetor may be plenty. You could also use an aftermarket efi system that bolts right on a 4150 carb intake. Don't use Fitech though. They suck.

If running AC and power steering you will need to change the engine front cover, locate a proper harmonic balancer ( 28 or 50oz ), proper flex plate / flywheel, and return style low pressure fuel pressure regulator.

The engine you bought, likely, has the HO firing order. Most aftermarket camshafts change the firing order in order to get the added torque. You can rotate the engine and watch the lifters to see what cylinder order you have.
 
Theres so nuch youd hsve to change for the efi to work that ots not worth it ( in my opinion ). If it were me a carburetor would be going on that engine. I'd save the efi parts for building another engine over time. Why reinvent the wheel when you could be good to go right now ? My carbureted 89 convertible got 27mpg o the highway cruising at 72mph with a t5 and 3.73 gears. Used an edel rock dual plain intake and an edelbrock 600cfm carb. Had an e303 camshaft and ported e7 stock heads with bigger valves.

Most people over fuel carbureted cars. If its a mild cam a 500cfm carburetor may be plenty. You could also use an aftermarket efi system that bolts right on a 4150 carb intake. Don't use Fitech though. They suck.

If running AC and power steering you will need to change the engine front cover, locate a proper harmonic balancer ( 28 or 50oz ), proper flex plate / flywheel, and return style low pressure fuel pressure regulator.

The engine you bought, likely, has the HO firing order. Most aftermarket camshafts change the firing order in order to get the added torque. You can rotate the engine and watch the lifters to see what cylinder order you have.
Thanks a lot!
Hell if I got 20-24 miles a gallon I’d be happy so maybe a carb is the way to go. I guess the key is power to weight …like in my boats over the years I got better mileage out of a V8 in roughly the same boat I had a four cylinder in.


if I’m light on the pedal driving it to work and back here and there. I was having visions of 13 miles a gallon or something. I don’t know, I guess I was hoping for the smoothness of efi, but as some of you suggested I could use an aftermarket setup. Thanks a lot for the replies.

I did pull the pan, and the cam etc. I will re lube all of it.
 
My car ( 83 ) was carbed from Ford so a no brainer to me... I had all of the parts to swap over to the explorer engine/" P " heads ( except for exhaust manifolds)
I wanted a newer block with a roller cam and 1 piece seal....
Did install a TF Stage 1 cam.....
The CFM flow charts computed out to 480 CFM at 5500 rpm, so I went with a 500 CFM carb looking for good street manners.....
 
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