Thinking Twice
- Thread starter Guero
- Start date
CManT1914
New Member
Do it! Yea, you're gonna need bigger injectors, and a different maf, you're also gonna need a lot of miscellaneous accessories like new head bolts, header bolts, gaskets, vacuum lines (you're probably break some), tools (torque wrench, balancer puller (you can rent both of these I believe), feeler gauge, timing light etc...). But dude it's worth it once you get it together and running.
95COBRA241
New Member
Yeah, but once you do it there's no looking back. Other mods will done just to enhance the H/C/I.
i wont install it, ill pay someone who knows. So if i get the trickflow Kit, what exactly else would i need to buy? so i can calculate how much im gonna end up wasting. does the trickflow kit have the head bolt and te headers bolt, and do i really need a new MAF. was reading that the dyno tune would take care of that?
Now you know the whole story.
If you do up a combo where everything is selected to maximize your expectations ..........................
It will put a grin on your face every time you drive your Stang.
Besides ...... now you know you need ................
just a few more parts than you first expected, lol.
Grady
If you do up a combo where everything is selected to maximize your expectations ..........................
It will put a grin on your face every time you drive your Stang.
Besides ...... now you know you need ................
just a few more parts than you first expected, lol.
Grady
fawcett
Member
its a long road ahead of ya if you want to go that route with one of these cars let me tell you. after i put my long block in from frpp i thought things would be sweet but they werent. my car drove like crap for the longest time. my computer hates my cam, its an e-cam. the heads, gt40x's and track heat intake with spacer should have made this thing a mean machine but it drives like junk unless i am racing it on the 1/4 mile or on the highway where it really shines. this is just one mans opinion with a totally different setup than your planned one. but you will have to get your car tuned and most likely not with some cheap generic chip. trust me i have read plenty of posts where people have had to ditch the chip for something better. so your immediate options fall into either the tweecer or the pms. if you have got some money you can get an aem or fast computer and be straight assuming you have an experienced techie tune your ride. i have read soo much about these options because my car is now begging for it. i have a pretty good combo but it truly means nothing if it drives around town like a beater.
please just keep in mind that our cars computers hate cams. look at the steeda#19's they are close to your only option.
i wish i put one of those in before i dropped in my longblock.
-fawcett
1995 gts, frpp 340bhp 302, gt40x's, track heat with spacer, prom 80, frpp 65mm tb, frpp 24lbs, aeromotive fpr@39psi, 190fuelpump, full o/r exhaust, full mallory ignition system, fluidyne radiator, march pulleys, d&d viper spec t56, 3.73's, brembos all around, cobra r's
please just keep in mind that our cars computers hate cams. look at the steeda#19's they are close to your only option.
i wish i put one of those in before i dropped in my longblock.
-fawcett
1995 gts, frpp 340bhp 302, gt40x's, track heat with spacer, prom 80, frpp 65mm tb, frpp 24lbs, aeromotive fpr@39psi, 190fuelpump, full o/r exhaust, full mallory ignition system, fluidyne radiator, march pulleys, d&d viper spec t56, 3.73's, brembos all around, cobra r's
CManT1914
New Member
Guero said:
A grin is a smile.
You won't NEED a new maf, as long as the tuner can reprogram the PCM to compensate for the bigger injectors. However, until you get it tuned, it WILL run like crapola !!
No, the kit will not have head bolts. You'll need to get those seperate. Get ARP only! Same for header bolts, you might not need new ones, but the stock ones might be rusted, so it would be good insurance.
Guero
Now that I think about it, your thread is quite timely as there now are quite a few new members on our site. :SNSign:
I myself tend to take lots of stuff about our hobby for granted or maybe I tend to forget how it is since I've been around forever.
Your thread shows the point that the best way to mod your Stang is to explore all the possibilities which is very easy to do since there are all kinds of combos on this site.
Then when you see which plan is good for you.
Follow the experience from those who did what you want to do.
Now ...... If one wants something different than all the rest .......................
All of us have an opinion
Grady
Now that I think about it, your thread is quite timely as there now are quite a few new members on our site. :SNSign:
I myself tend to take lots of stuff about our hobby for granted or maybe I tend to forget how it is since I've been around forever.
Your thread shows the point that the best way to mod your Stang is to explore all the possibilities which is very easy to do since there are all kinds of combos on this site.
Then when you see which plan is good for you.
Follow the experience from those who did what you want to do.
Now ...... If one wants something different than all the rest .......................
All of us have an opinion
Grady
fawcett said:
Its good of you to share what it was like for you with the path you chose for your combo.
From my self tuning findings and the things I've seen peeps say on these forums ............................
I think it is entirely possible that even if you went with the #19 ..................
you still could have had some drivability issues.
Grady
YEAHLOH95
Founding Member
ihave heard that too i have a friend in my car club same truble with the same cam i researched my cam for 3 months an d it payed off it idled the first time i fired it up . keeping with a 114 centerline helps alot in our cars
CManT1914
New Member
Guero said:
LSA: Lobe seperation angle, stock is 116. The farther you get from 116 (aftermarket cams are gonna have a lower LSA) the more lope you will have, but the harder it will be on the PCM to learn the idle. I think it works like this: on a cam with a 114 LSA, the peak lift of the intake and exhaust lobes are 114* from each other on rotation. I think that's how it goes.
CManT1914
New Member
Guero said:
Yep. So, from a 116 (stock) to a 114, it's gonna have a coppier idle, and the PCM won't like it.
CManT1914
New Member
Guero said:
No, my stage 1 cam has a 112 LSA. I'm just using 114 as an example. Stage 3 cams (Brandon runs one in his 418) have 110 LSA's.
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