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This is Exhausting

  • Thread starter Thread starter gregski
  • Start date Start date May 15, 2010
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gregski

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Mar 13, 2010
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May 15, 2010
#1
  • May 15, 2010
  • #1
So I picked up a Fel Pro exhaust manifold gasket set from Auto Zone again going for the cheap stuff. I used a razor type tool to scrape the old gasket off (man so much easier to work on with the engine out of the car, LOL), and a metal ruler to check my heads and see if my exhaust manifolds were worped, and they look good. Then I spent some time cleaning the old bolts with a wire prush and WD-40. And I chased the threads in the heads, [hey that rhymes] and cleaned them out really good, yes should have done it when the heads were off, but oh well. I also took the wire brush to the exhaust manifold and got some of the rust off of it. So before I put them on I have a few questions.

QUSTIONS:

The gaskets have a shiny metalic side and a dull side, which side goes towards the engine, which side towards the exhaust manifold or header? Two AutoZone "experts" had two different opinions!

Do I put any type of goop on the gaskets or do they go on dry? My guess would be dry.

What goop if anything do I put on the exhaust manifold bolts before screwing them in. I know I can rule out LockTight, jk.

As I can no longer buy replacement bolts, can I replace a broken exhaust manifold bolt with a grade 5 (3 notches on the head) bolt, or should I use grade 8 (6 notches on the head). Please see picture below of the old bolts and a new grade 5 bolt..

I wonder if the rust will come back on the manifolds unless I coat them with something?

thank you and you can see more of the project here:

Small Block Ford 302 V8







 
D

D.Hearne

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#2
  • May 15, 2010
  • #2
Shiny side toward the manifold. Use anti seeze on the bolts. Use a grade 8 bolt. What's with the Mustang II right side manifold ?
 
D

D.Hearne

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#3
  • May 15, 2010
  • #3
Oh, and for cleaning bolts, a bench grinder with a wire wheel works great.
 
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2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
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Southeastern Pennsylvania
May 15, 2010
#4
  • May 15, 2010
  • #4
The gaskets have a shiny metalic side and a dull side, which side goes towards the engine, which side towards the exhaust manifold or header? Two AutoZone "experts" had two different opinions!
Surprise surprise. Go with D.Hearne.

Do I put any type of goop on the gaskets or do they go on dry? My guess would be dry.
Yep.

What goop if anything do I put on the exhaust manifold bolts before screwing them in. I know I can rule out LockTight, jk.
The "Rotolock™" bolts keep themselves tight without glue.

As I can no longer buy replacement bolts, can I replace a broken exhaust manifold bolt with a grade 5 (3 notches on the head) bolt, or should I use grade 8 (6 notches on the head). Please see picture below of the old bolts and a new grade 5 bolt.
WHAT??!! You can get exact, correct exhaust manifold bolts each or by the truckload. Use them. They aren't even expensive.

I wonder if the rust will come back on the manifolds unless I coat them with something?
Yep. There are many such products. I get 5 years+ out of Eastwood's product. You can even get them ceramic or aluminum coated for permamnent protection. Your manifolds, though, are strange, especially the right one, not correct for a Mustang. The correct ones are easy to find an cheap used.
 
G

gregski

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May 15, 2010
#5
  • May 15, 2010
  • #5
D.Hearne said:
... What's with the Mustang II right side manifold ?
Click to expand...

Nice job Eagle Eye, [ahem] yes this is a 1976 engine, shhhh don't tell it's all I got and I hope to drop her into a 1968 coupe.
 
G

gregski

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Mar 13, 2010
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May 15, 2010
#6
  • May 15, 2010
  • #6
agree

D.Hearne said:
Oh, and for cleaning bolts, a bench grinder with a wire wheel works great.
Click to expand...

I agree and want/need one. I have my eye on a Harbor Freight six inch one, however I heard guys say go for the bigger eight inch, not to hijack my own thread here, but what's your recommendation?

and thank you very much for taking the time to read this post and reply
 

fvike

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Aug 24, 2004
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May 15, 2010
#7
  • May 15, 2010
  • #7
I'm sure it's mentioned on some other tread before, but here it is again: Percy's Seal-4-Good aluminum gasket. Reusable and worth every penny.

Percy s High Performance 66014 - Percy's Seal-4-Good Header Gaskets - Overview - SummitRacing.com
 
D

D.Hearne

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#8
  • May 15, 2010
  • #8
gregski said:
I agree and want/need one. I have my eye on a Harbor Freight six inch one, however I heard guys say go for the bigger eight inch, not to hijack my own thread here, but what's your recommendation?

and thank you very much for taking the time to read this post and reply
Click to expand...

I've got an eight inch one. Bought it at a pawn shop about 20 years ago. The eight's got a little more power. Other than that, I see now reason a 6 wouldn't do you either. I use mine for parts cleaning and sharpening my lawn mower blades with the stone wheel.
 
D

D.Hearne

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#9
  • May 15, 2010
  • #9
gregski said:
Nice job Eagle Eye, [ahem] yes this is a 1976 engine, shhhh don't tell it's all I got and I hope to drop her into a 1968 coupe.
Click to expand...

You really ought to replace the left manifold with one from a 70's 351W. It'll breathe a lot better. That MII right side also works in a V8 Ranger swap.
 
G

gregski

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May 16, 2010
#10
  • May 16, 2010
  • #10
someone on another forum recommends

"ARP stainless steel exhaust bolts never seize or rust !!! coat the threads with 30w motor oil and torque to 35 ft.lbs."

Oil on the bolt threads, seriously ?
 
D

D.Hearne

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#11
  • May 16, 2010
  • #11
I wouldn't use oil either. Antiseeze compound is made for this. Any local autoparts house has it. I use it any bolt I don't want to rust in place. We used it offshore on electrical box bolts. (aluminum box, steel bolts)
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
3,333
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Southeastern Pennsylvania
May 16, 2010
#12
  • May 16, 2010
  • #12
gregski said:
Nice job Eagle Eye, [ahem] yes this is a 1976 engine, shhhh don't tell it's all I got and I hope to drop her into a 1968 coupe.
Click to expand...

Ditch the II manifolds. The stock 68 manifolds are easy to find and cheap, and then you won't spend a lotta time, money, and effort trying to hook up exhaust to them.
 
G

gregski

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May 16, 2010
#13
  • May 16, 2010
  • #13
manifolds vs headers

2+2GT said:
Ditch the II manifolds. The stock 68 manifolds are easy to find and cheap, and then you won't spend a lotta time, money, and effort trying to hook up exhaust to them.
Click to expand...

I will ditch the II manifolds, however would I benefit any from the stock Mustang 5.0 headers from a late 80's model? A guy I know wants to get rid of them for next to nothing, would you pay $20 for those and put them on instead?
 
G

gregski

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Mar 13, 2010
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May 17, 2010
#14
  • May 17, 2010
  • #14
Anti Seize

Is this the stuff?

Permatex, Anti-Seize Lubricant
Item # 81343 (133A)

Use in spark plug installation on aluminum cylinder head-equipped engines... [ahem] but if you read on it says and cast iron heads.

- Prevents corrosion
- Permits easy disassembly
- Will not wash away (no kidding don't get it on your hands)
- Eliminates galling, seizing
- Lubricates
- Withstands up to 1600 F

Use On:

- Manifold Studs
- Oxygen Sensors
- Hinges
- EGR Fittings
- Brake Anchor Pins
- Head Bolts
- Assemblies exposed to heat or corrosion
- Spark Plug Threads when installing in aluminum or cast iron heads.

 

tx65coupe

Active Member
Nov 29, 1999
1,551
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May 17, 2010
#15
  • May 17, 2010
  • #15
I'll chime in and say use anti-seize too. I also agree that the Percy's gaskets are awesome!
 
D

D.Hearne

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May 17, 2010
#16
  • May 17, 2010
  • #16
gregski said:
I will ditch the II manifolds, however would I benefit any from the stock Mustang 5.0 headers from a late 80's model? A guy I know wants to get rid of them for next to nothing, would you pay $20 for those and put them on instead?
Click to expand...

Yes, they're better, if they will fit your car's chassis. You can sell the MII manifold on ebay.
 
G

gregski

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May 18, 2010
#17
  • May 18, 2010
  • #17
What do you make of this comment by someone on another forum?

"... wait we're talking about iron manifolds on an iron head right?
i never use gaskets between them if that was the case. less chance of warping when two exact same metals are right next to each other..."
 
D

D.Hearne

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May 19, 2010
#18
  • May 19, 2010
  • #18
gregski said:
What do you make of this comment by someone on another forum?

"... wait we're talking about iron manifolds on an iron head right?
i never use gaskets between them if that was the case. less chance of warping when two exact same metals are right next to each other..."
Click to expand...

This is how the factory did it, but the manifold and head must be perfectly flat.
 
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67rcks

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Feb 20, 2008
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May 19, 2010
#19
  • May 19, 2010
  • #19
you can buy correct exhaust bolts in any classic mustang store for some $10/set (with some writing on the head). Those are grade 5 bolts though.

the headers on the picture seems to me like from a RHD car or late fords came with longer header on the passenger side?
 
D

D.Hearne

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#20
  • May 19, 2010
  • #20
67rcks said:
you can buy correct exhaust bolts in any classic mustang store for some $10/set (with some writing on the head). Those are grade 5 bolts though.

the headers on the picture seems to me like from a RHD car or late fords came with longer header on the passenger side?
Click to expand...

That long right side is from a Mustang II.
 
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