I have a few questions that I know have already been covered, but what hasnt.I have the stock drum brakes on the rear, and want to switch to disc. Im buying everything off of this guy except axles. What would I need to use the stock axles? And do I have to replace or upgrade the m/c? What about a proportioning valve? Let me know....thanks!!!!:help:Those who have done the rear disc swap!!
- Thread starter somersdp
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I have a few questions that I know have already been covered, but what hasnt.I have the stock drum brakes on the rear, and want to switch to disc. Im buying everything off of this guy except axles. What would I need to use the stock axles? And do I have to replace or upgrade the m/c? What about a proportioning valve? Let me know....thanks!!!!:help:
91BlckGT
Founding Member
Have you read Matt's site yet?
http://sn95brakes.cjb.net/
You will need an adj. prop valve, and will need to gut your stock one. What type of M.C. you use depends entirely upon what type of rear disc you put on, and what type of front brakes you are running.
http://sn95brakes.cjb.net/
You will need an adj. prop valve, and will need to gut your stock one. What type of M.C. you use depends entirely upon what type of rear disc you put on, and what type of front brakes you are running.
See Matt90GT's site for info on North Cobra mounting brackets.
The following is an excerpt from my 87 Turbo Coupe to Mustang rear end swap...
You will need a several sets of fittings, I recommend that you get them from Matt90GT's website, http://www.svo73mm.cjb.net/. Read Matt's instructions thoroughly, everything you need to know about the brakes is all there. You need to be patient and follow all the internal links, and there are many of them. You will need 2 fittings in the rear to adapt your old brake tubing to the TC disk brakes. The fittings go between the steel tube and the caliper brake hose. You will need another set of fittings to make a 2 port to 3 port adapter. To make life simpler, just buy the kits from Matt. You could piece them together, but it's not worth the time unless you work at an auto parts store with all the fittings ever made.
You will need a proportioning valve, Summit has one for $40 + shipping.
You will need a kit (FMS makes the part) to gut the stock proportioning valve, Summit also has that, about $10.
You will need a new master cylinder, see Matt's site and make you choice. I used a 94-95 Mustang master cylinder. Note that rebuilt 94-95 Mustang master cylinders do not come with a reservoir. That means a trip to the junkyard and some more money spent.
Your brake pedal may be very hard and almost impossible to lock up the brakes. I had to replace the front calipers with 73 mm calipers from a 91 Lincoln Mark 8 to get the braking performance up to par.
Bleeding the brakes will require 2 people and some coordinated effort. I don’t recommend using you wife or girlfriend to pump the pedal – they get offended when you yell at them. I used a homemade power brake bleeder constructed from a garden sprayer and some fittings from Home Depot. It cost about $25 and was worth every penny.
See http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/brake.html for help with the emergency brake - the stock setup tends to lock up and not release properly.
The following is an excerpt from my 87 Turbo Coupe to Mustang rear end swap...
You will need a several sets of fittings, I recommend that you get them from Matt90GT's website, http://www.svo73mm.cjb.net/. Read Matt's instructions thoroughly, everything you need to know about the brakes is all there. You need to be patient and follow all the internal links, and there are many of them. You will need 2 fittings in the rear to adapt your old brake tubing to the TC disk brakes. The fittings go between the steel tube and the caliper brake hose. You will need another set of fittings to make a 2 port to 3 port adapter. To make life simpler, just buy the kits from Matt. You could piece them together, but it's not worth the time unless you work at an auto parts store with all the fittings ever made.
You will need a proportioning valve, Summit has one for $40 + shipping.
You will need a kit (FMS makes the part) to gut the stock proportioning valve, Summit also has that, about $10.
You will need a new master cylinder, see Matt's site and make you choice. I used a 94-95 Mustang master cylinder. Note that rebuilt 94-95 Mustang master cylinders do not come with a reservoir. That means a trip to the junkyard and some more money spent.
Your brake pedal may be very hard and almost impossible to lock up the brakes. I had to replace the front calipers with 73 mm calipers from a 91 Lincoln Mark 8 to get the braking performance up to par.
Bleeding the brakes will require 2 people and some coordinated effort. I don’t recommend using you wife or girlfriend to pump the pedal – they get offended when you yell at them. I used a homemade power brake bleeder constructed from a garden sprayer and some fittings from Home Depot. It cost about $25 and was worth every penny.
See http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/brake.html for help with the emergency brake - the stock setup tends to lock up and not release properly.
Just use the whole Turbo Coupe rear end, and get 3.55 or 3.73 gears and disc brakes in the same package. The details are pretty much the same as in my earlier post except for drilling the quad shock brackets. That way is cheaper than the buying North Cobra brackets if you are in an area that has lots of Turbo Coupes in the junkyards. I paid $286 for mine, but others here on Stangnet have mentioned prices as low as $150.
