Now you guys have me second guessing getting the hood pins.
Im getting the Steeda Hood, and I thought those fit directly...But I think their description says hood pins required, which Im not sure if it's for liability protection, or you REALLY do need them.
Well the hood weighs alot less, I know on mine when im doing above highway speeds I can see it shaking and can just picture it flying off, its been fine for 2 years though...
i wouldn't trust it. as far as rusting, mine got really bad rust on the plates, so i had a local guy cut me some stainless plates.
i don't like the pins that have the plate screwed down, you don't need that, the plate is just to distribute the pressure, it doesn't need to be screwed. I used 3m weatherstriping glue. Also, I would never get ones that are tied to the car. The locking ones (i've heard) break to easy, and don't hold as well. I couldn't tell you what kit i have, it came on the car when i got it. Esentially, it is a pin coming through the hood with a hole in it. a plate glued to the hood. and lynch pins with rubber grommets on them to hold the pin from shaking off. pretty simple setup.
OH...BTW...does anyone with a raised type after market hood....Cowl, Cobra R, etc....notice a difference in engine temp, ie, cooling effect from the extra air space (heat extractor hoods not included )
RC
On topic: I didn't notice any difference in cooling. It even has two vents at the end of the hood near the windshield but still no difference. I was hoping for the same thing myself.
Off topic: If you have problems with with cooling I would go with a Fluidyne radiator. It was the best thing I ever put on my car. The installation was very smooth with no mods. I also wired the fan so it comes on as soon as the car does and put a lower temp t-stat. Runs perfect even in 100+ degree temps in SoCal.
I have a Fluidyne...but with the 90* heat, chrome polished parts, and Vortech, It will still get to about 215-220 in the summer...Rarely gets to 190 in the winter.
RC