Throttle Linkage
- Thread starter cptam1
- Start date
Alternative to making your existing rod work:
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2004/08/ThrottleLinkage/index.php
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2004/08/ThrottleLinkage/index.php
65 fastback
Founding Member
302 coupe
Founding Member
did you people not read his post, He clearly states that he is using a cable, not a rod.
The cable should be held by a bracket that is bolted to the rear drivers side of the intake. The cable is clamped to the bracket with a little strip of sheetmetal and a sheetmetal screw. You can loosen the screw and slide the cable housing towards the rear, then retighten the screw to clamp it back in place. This should remove most of the slack, unless you have some missing parts or have something installed wrong.
If you need pic let me know. I always use cables instead of the rod linkage, they're just easier to work around.
The cable should be held by a bracket that is bolted to the rear drivers side of the intake. The cable is clamped to the bracket with a little strip of sheetmetal and a sheetmetal screw. You can loosen the screw and slide the cable housing towards the rear, then retighten the screw to clamp it back in place. This should remove most of the slack, unless you have some missing parts or have something installed wrong.
If you need pic let me know. I always use cables instead of the rod linkage, they're just easier to work around.
2nd Mustang
Founding Member
Edbert said:
I tried those stores. The workers at both stores didn't know what a heim joint was.
I bought all the parts at a contractor's hardware supply store, less the heim joints as they were out of stock this week, and spent around $7 so far. The washers from the self tapping screws fit the Holley throttle hole perfectly.
HistoricMustang
Active Member
nmk_61802 said:
I made one of these for the race car (you certainly do not want to have throttle problems at high speed). It is identical to the pic in the link and works very well. Picked up the parts at Ace Hardware.
HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
I feel bad that we've (I've) completely hijacked this thread, so to answer the original question...
What you do it detatch the rod from the pedal-pivot at the rear. It is held in place with a cotter pin. Once it it loose you can turn it along the threaded part of the rod to shorten/lengthen the throw as appropriate.
Now back to the hijack
Thanks for the tip about McMasters, they have a WIDE selection of stuff. I'll try a local Ace Hardware first but I'm usually not able to find stuff there that the big-box stores don't have.
I was looking at these and thought this might be a good choice for the ends.
That way the rod that goes through the two shanks could be the exact size and not require the rubber bushings and I wont have to buy them from Moroso.
Opinions?
What you do it detatch the rod from the pedal-pivot at the rear. It is held in place with a cotter pin. Once it it loose you can turn it along the threaded part of the rod to shorten/lengthen the throw as appropriate.
Now back to the hijack
Thanks for the tip about McMasters, they have a WIDE selection of stuff. I'll try a local Ace Hardware first but I'm usually not able to find stuff there that the big-box stores don't have.
I was looking at these and thought this might be a good choice for the ends.
That way the rod that goes through the two shanks could be the exact size and not require the rubber bushings and I wont have to buy them from Moroso.
Opinions?
2nd Mustang
Founding Member
I've found that Ace Hardware has stuff that the big box stores don't carry. The only draw back is that Ace Hardware is not near where I live or work.
302 coupe
Founding Member
LOLOL...I tried...302 coupe said:I guess you didn't notice the original poster is using a cable
Okay, I've adjusted the cable types before too, recently on my T/V cable. If it is too long you are in business, if it is too short you're screwed, so be careful. What I did was measure the cable housing twice, mark the desired length, remove tha casing from it's retainer, remove the cable from the casing and cut the it (the casing) at your mark, I used a cutting disc. The re-insert the casing into it's housing, re-insert the cable into the casing, snug everything up, adjust to taste and cut off the excess cable.
EDIT: I just saw you edited your post above too, guess we both misread his post, poor guy
302 coupe
Founding Member
wild70stang
New Member
- Nov 11, 2005
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I am wondering if this idea would work if you had an automatic tranny. I would just modify the throttle linkage and leave the tranny kickdown in its current place. Also, this idea can work for virtualy any carb, just as long as its length is fitted correctly?
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