Ticking noise
- Thread starter stang23456
- Start date
semperfi510
Founding Member
Probably an exhaust leak. Check to make sure everything is tightened and the gasket's from your header to prochamber are good.stang23456 said:
JOhnny
Are you sure it's coming from the rear? I have heard that a ticking noise coming from the driver's side of the engine is typically valvetrain noise (e.g. normal OHC noise or a worn valvestem guide). There might be some kind of sound reflection going on... my suggestion is to listen down by the front, driver's side wheel well.
Also, I know there is a TSB dealing with a ticking noise for automatic transmission-equipped versions of the 260HP Mustang. I'm not sure about what it says. I think it deals with a ticking in first gear.
Also, I know there is a TSB dealing with a ticking noise for automatic transmission-equipped versions of the 260HP Mustang. I'm not sure about what it says. I think it deals with a ticking in first gear.
edcar01gt
New Member
dont bother taking it in to the dealer...they wont fix it..i know...taken it twice already and they havent done **** about it...pisses me off..so i told them when the engine blows, they cant say i never told them, since everything is documented.
Mike99BLKGT
New Member
stang23456 said:
I have the same sound in my auto with a prochamber. In high gears u can definetly hear a ticking. I think thats just the sound of the box in the prochamber. I like the ticking and have gotten a few compliments (stock mufflers).
Fastscorpio
Founding Member
There is a Tsb 03-16-4 ENGINE—4.6L 2V— TICK NOISE FROM ENGINE— Article No.
ENGINES BUILT BEFORE 8/29/2003 03-16-4
FORD: 2001-2004 CROWN VICTORIA, MUSTANG, E SERIES, EXPEDITION, F-150
2002-2004 EXPLORER
LINCOLN: 2001-2004 TOWN CAR
MERCURY: 2001-2004 GRAND MARQUIS
2002-2004 MOUNTAINEER
5. Check to make sure that the camshaft spacers ISSUE
are in place. If not, install cam spacers (per Some vehicles, equipped with the 4.6L 2V engine,
Workshop Manual Section 303-01) and retest with an “ENGINE BUILD DATE” prior to 8/29/03
vehicle. may exhibit an engine tick noise that is present at
all temperatures during idle. The noise may be 6. Check for proper cam sprocket bolt torque,
emanating from the valve guide area in the Cylinder retorque to specification (per Workshop Manual
Head. The noise may be more prevalent in the front Section 303-01).
wheel well area, and may not be heard with the
hood open. 7. Check hydraulic lash adjusters for a possible
“spongy” condition (refer to Workshop Manual
ACTION Section 303-00).
Follow the Service Procedures listed in this article
8. Verify that the timing chain tensioner pin has to properly diagnose/evaluate the vehicle condition.
been removed.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
If the above diagnostics do not eliminate the noise
NOTE while the cylinders are cancelled, replace the
THIS ARTICLE APPLIES ONLY TO VEHICLES cylinder head and cam assembly with Part Number
WITH AN “ENGINE” BUILT BEFORE 8/29/03 1L2Z-6049-LA. Refer to Workshop Manual Section
(ENGINE BUILD DATE, NOT VEHICLE BUILD 303-01 for cylinder head replacement procedures.
DATE). THE ENGINE BUILD DATE IS TYPICALLY
NOTE FOUND ON THE ENGINE LABEL LOCATED ON
THE REPLACEMENT CYLINDER HEAD WILL THE VALVE COVER.
NOT IMPROVE OR REDUCE PERFORMANCE.
1. Verify the source of the noise by placing a
stethoscope on the back of the cylinder head PART NUMBER PART NAME
near the exhaust ports. 1L2Z-6049-LA Head Assembly
2. Verify that the noise is heard in the exhaust
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE system (in the wheel well or catalytic converter,
WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY from underneath the vehicle).
3. Verify that there are no exhaust manifold leaks.
4. Verify that the tick noise is still present when
canceling each cylinder, by unplugging the
injectors one at a time.
NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to do
the job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper
vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by “do-it-yourselfers”. Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a
Ford, Lincoln, or Mercury dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to your vehicle.
Copyright ã 2003 Ford Motor Company PAGE 1llitin(tsb)
ENGINES BUILT BEFORE 8/29/2003 03-16-4
FORD: 2001-2004 CROWN VICTORIA, MUSTANG, E SERIES, EXPEDITION, F-150
2002-2004 EXPLORER
LINCOLN: 2001-2004 TOWN CAR
MERCURY: 2001-2004 GRAND MARQUIS
2002-2004 MOUNTAINEER
5. Check to make sure that the camshaft spacers ISSUE
are in place. If not, install cam spacers (per Some vehicles, equipped with the 4.6L 2V engine,
Workshop Manual Section 303-01) and retest with an “ENGINE BUILD DATE” prior to 8/29/03
vehicle. may exhibit an engine tick noise that is present at
all temperatures during idle. The noise may be 6. Check for proper cam sprocket bolt torque,
emanating from the valve guide area in the Cylinder retorque to specification (per Workshop Manual
Head. The noise may be more prevalent in the front Section 303-01).
wheel well area, and may not be heard with the
hood open. 7. Check hydraulic lash adjusters for a possible
“spongy” condition (refer to Workshop Manual
ACTION Section 303-00).
Follow the Service Procedures listed in this article
8. Verify that the timing chain tensioner pin has to properly diagnose/evaluate the vehicle condition.
been removed.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
If the above diagnostics do not eliminate the noise
NOTE while the cylinders are cancelled, replace the
THIS ARTICLE APPLIES ONLY TO VEHICLES cylinder head and cam assembly with Part Number
WITH AN “ENGINE” BUILT BEFORE 8/29/03 1L2Z-6049-LA. Refer to Workshop Manual Section
(ENGINE BUILD DATE, NOT VEHICLE BUILD 303-01 for cylinder head replacement procedures.
DATE). THE ENGINE BUILD DATE IS TYPICALLY
NOTE FOUND ON THE ENGINE LABEL LOCATED ON
THE REPLACEMENT CYLINDER HEAD WILL THE VALVE COVER.
NOT IMPROVE OR REDUCE PERFORMANCE.
1. Verify the source of the noise by placing a
stethoscope on the back of the cylinder head PART NUMBER PART NAME
near the exhaust ports. 1L2Z-6049-LA Head Assembly
2. Verify that the noise is heard in the exhaust
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE system (in the wheel well or catalytic converter,
WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY from underneath the vehicle).
3. Verify that there are no exhaust manifold leaks.
4. Verify that the tick noise is still present when
canceling each cylinder, by unplugging the
injectors one at a time.
NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to do
the job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper
vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by “do-it-yourselfers”. Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a
Ford, Lincoln, or Mercury dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to your vehicle.
Copyright ã 2003 Ford Motor Company PAGE 1llitin(tsb)
every catless exhaust i have ever heard sounds like it is leaking at low, low rpms. If you are in 5th at 1200 rpm and feed it throttle, it will tick. This to me is normal. An exhaust leak is another thing altogether. Check both collectors and double up on the gaskets. my 2 cents
BrightBlue00GT
I am even OLDER than Hawk!
I've had my PC for 3+ years now and the only ticking I ever heard from it was when I sprung a leak... both sides. Pass side gasket blew and drivers side came loose a bit. Other than that, never a tick from the PC. The noise of the chamber is a distinctive gushing sound, but not ticking. Other things that make ticking noise you can hear are the injectors.
MGSTANG
Founding Member
I also have the Prochamber on a 04 GT 5speed. I hear the same noises. I also notice that gushing sound really bad in 5th. It's annoying but I still love the sound of that prochamber mixed with the 40 series flowmasters. I do have a little leak on the drivers side that's kind of hard to get rid of even with it on a lift and trying to adjust it. Oh well.
