Tighten up the bottem end?

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WillDuhhBeast said:
Will this be good for 500 daily driven HP?

http://www.seanhylandmotorsport.com...id=49&osCsid=e70bb2edffc131de1b9f2ce80ea5dc8c


Ive been told to go with the MPH street/strip block.. but thats 3000+ What makes that better than the SHM setup?


that SHM kit does not include the block or labor. that's a "do it yourself" kit. and trust me, you don't want to do it yourself. do it once and do it right. buy a complete shortblock from a reputable company like MPH or VT Engines.
 
Well almost all of the kits use a stock block.

with this kit you will need to have take you block to the machine shop. I would get that quoted out first. If you are not comfortable doing the assembly that is goin to cost money. I am not sure if this kit is balaced. that costs money.

this kit uses almost the same parts as the MPH shortblock but that comes ready to use. assembled, balaced, stud kit, etc. make sure you are comparing apples vs apples price wise.

If you are comfortalbe with engine assemble and understand that kit needs to be balanced it does seem to be a decent price.
 
DBMSTNG said:
that SHM kit does not include the block or labor. that's a "do it yourself" kit. and trust me, you don't want to do it yourself. do it once and do it right. buy a complete shortblock from a reputable company like MPH or VT Engines.


why to you think you have to buy a complete engine to do it right? MPH uses stock blocks bored .020 over. You can have your own block machined and still do it right.

I have not priced out machining on one of these mod motors to know what the cost of machining and balacing is but It would save you money.
 
Toms_2003_Stang said:
Did they screw him over???
He bought some parts for his Cobra from them and they sent him GT stuff by mistake and he's still having a hissy fit over it. :D

...as far as building a 4.6L is concerned!!!

I built mine myself using the stock block and didn't even need to have it bored. Tolerances were still well within acceptable levels. As a matter of fact, the little bit of wear that my stock block did have played into my favor, since the forged pistons require a little additional clearance. Nothing more needed than a fresh hone and I was back in business.

The assembly fee’s that a lot of these high performance businesses charge to build one of these engines is down right criminal! Most people are so afraid to even crack a valve cover open on these things that it allows some of these high performance builders to take advantage of their fears and charge top dollar for a build as a result. Modular motors aren't that tough to build. No worse than an OHV.

People that have little or no knowledge/experience of them automatically assume that touching one is instant taboo and decide to speak for others with regards to their need to be built professionally. Truth be told, there's nothing to it. I will admit, I wouldn't recommend someone with little or no automotive experience try to tackle the job, but if you've ever built an OHV engine in the past and have got the necessary tools to get the job done, then putting your own together won’t pose any great risk. Get yourself a detailed shop factory shop manual, a good torque wrench some feeler blades, a little plastic gauge, a couple of buddies with some automotive knowledge to bounce idea's off of when minor issues arise and a couple of other odds and ends and you're good to go.

BTW...that SHM is really well priced. I don't know why some of you are under the impression that it's a stroker kit though? :scratch:
 
I would buy the parts from the person that is going to asemble the motor, so they stand behind the finished product. I strongly suggest vt engines or mph and I would just buy a shortblock, thats what I did and it was roughly double the price than just the parts.
 
dcanman said:
If you don't mind me asking, exactly what parts were sent by mistake?
I think it was an oilpan and gasket.....maybe one or two other small things, but I can't remember. According to Tom (and a couple of others), their customer service is ****. It's too bad too, because he does sell some good stuff. :(
 
Gearbanger 101 said:
I think it was an oilpan and gasket.....maybe one or two other small things, but I can't remember. According to Tom (and a couple of others), their customer service is ****. It's too bad too, because he does sell some good stuff. :(

What was wrong with the oil pan and gasket? The gasket is the same on the Cobra from 96-04 Mustang GT and Cobra, and there's only one current oil pan available for the 4.6L that fits 96-04 Cobra. Only difference between the GT and Cobra pan is the baffles under the windage tray with the Cobra. The casting is identical. Ford did do some sensor mods back in 98-99 to the oil pan, and added sensors to the overflow coolant tank, and a few other places. These were then discontinued within a few months, not available from Ford for anyone, and haven't for years.

If he got a pan without baffles, call SHM and demand a refund. ;) He'll get it.
 
dcanman said:
What was wrong with the oil pan and gasket? The gasket is the same on the Cobra from 96-04 Mustang GT and Cobra, and there's only one current oil pan available for the 4.6L that fits 96-04 Cobra. Only difference between the GT and Cobra pan is the baffles under the windage tray with the Cobra. The casting is identical. Ford did do some sensor mods back in 98-99 to the oil pan, and added sensors to the overflow coolant tank, and a few other places. These were then discontinued within a few months, not available from Ford for anyone, and haven't for years.

If he got a pan without baffles, call SHM and demand a refund. ;) He'll get it.
The problem with the pan is that it won't clear the Cobra's high volume oil pump and pick up tube. It has to be 4V specific otherwise the baffles interfere. I may have been off about the details of the pan gasket….you’d have to speak to him directly to confirm. And I do think that SHM had agreed to rectify the situation, but when I last spoke to him he sounded as though they him'd and haw'd and took their sweet old time about it.
 
Gearbanger 101 said:
The problem with the pan is that it won't clear the Cobra's high volume oil pump and pick up tube. It has to be 4V specific otherwise the baffles interfere. I may have been off about the details of the pan gasket….you’d have to speak to him directly to confirm. And I do think that SHM had agreed to rectify the situation, but when I last spoke to him he sounded as though they him'd and haw'd and took their sweet old time about it.

Actually, there's only baffles in the 4V (cobra). At the front of the pan, there's 2 metal baffles on the cobra under the windage tray, none on the GT. The casting # is absolutely identical between GT and cobra other than the baffles that are welded on after the pan is cast (again, GT has no baffles), casting numbers are the same. There is not a separate casting for GT and cobra. There's no reason the pan and gasket would not have bolted up.
 
This seems to be a recurring theme as of late. I got the stroker kit from SHM and am very happy with the quality. Eveything went well with mine except it being a little slow to ship. I got it balanced for an extra $300. A mod motor is not very hard to build. It's just the same old rods, pistons and crank as every other engine less the camshaft in the block. Mine will be bored .030 over so I think that should bring it to a 306.