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Timing/Distributor

  • Thread starter Thread starter jggianna
  • Start date Start date Apr 17, 2011
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jggianna

New Member
Apr 11, 2011
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Apr 17, 2011
#1
  • Apr 17, 2011
  • #1
I have a 302 66 mustang. I have had problems with the timing on it. I took out the distributor to "reset" it. Trying to get the engine at TDC, but I can feel the compression, but when i do, the marks on the crankshaft don't line up. Not sure how to fix this. My next problem is I have seated it tried to start and it did the first time, then it started to backfire...then kind of shut down. At this point I can't even get the darn thing to start again. I've never been really good at the timing, but now I need some guidance!
 

PoppyMod

Member
Jun 27, 2010
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Severna Park, MD
Apr 17, 2011
#2
  • Apr 17, 2011
  • #2
jggianna said:
I have a 302 66 mustang. I have had problems with the timing on it. I took out the distributor to "reset" it. Trying to get the engine at TDC, but I can feel the compression, but when i do, the marks on the crankshaft don't line up. Not sure how to fix this. My next problem is I have seated it tried to start and it did the first time, then it started to backfire...then kind of shut down. At this point I can't even get the darn thing to start again. I've never been really good at the timing, but now I need some guidance!
Click to expand...

Hi,

First, it's always advisable to never rotate the crank once the dizzy is removed from a "known" good running engine. But, sometimes this is not possible.
So, begin with manually rotating the crank to TDC "0" on the damper with the pointer in position on the compression or firing stroke.
To verify you are in the compression stroke, and not the exhaust stroke, remove the pass. side V/C exposing the valves. When the piston is in the TDC of the compression stroke, both valves of #1 cylinder will be closed. Some folks might test them by giving the rockers a little shake and many times there is a slight bit of wiggle. This is a good indication the valves are closed. If your piston is at TDC of the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve will be open as noted by the exhaust rocker will be fully depressed. Installing the "dizzy" in this position will result in, what is referred to, as being "180" out.
OK, with both valves closed, TDC at "0" on the damper as referenced by the pointer, you can now, prepare to install the dizzy.
Note on the plug cap where #1 plug is located, typically, it is referenced in about the 1:00 o'clock position when installed properly and the plugs connected in the proper firing order.
Keep in mind the rotor rotates CCW, and the firing order for 289 and early 302s is 1,5,4,2,6,3,7,8. Now, remove the cap rotate the rotor to about the 1:00 o'clock position. Insert the dizzy. If lucky the dizzy will fully seat. The vacuum canister will be pointing toward the front of the car or slightly off center toward the battery side. Also note, the rotor will rotate slightly, due to the helical cut of the drive gear.
If the dizzy stops within an 1/8” of fully seating, the reason is due to the oil pump drive gear is not meshing with the dizzy drive gear. Simply, rotate the oil pump drive gear ever so slightly to engage the pump shaft with the dizzy shaft. I use either a 5/16" - 1/4" drive socket taped to a long extension, or, better yet, an oil pump primer shaft. Turn the pump shaft a bit, re-insert. Keep trying until it fully seats. Once seated, insure the firing order is correct and fire her up! You may need to “play” with the timing a bit to get it to run easily.
Good Luck!
 
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