Timing Question

barthel · Apr 28, 2011

Update III:

So I turned the dizzy clockwise about an 1/8 of an inch (I realize that's not much) and drove it. Couldn't get it to highway speeds as it's rush hour around here, but no pinging at WOT. Temp seemed OK, but the idle is still concerning me. It idles about 750/800 in Park, still idles about 550 in gear with my foot on the brake. It sounds like it's gonna fall on it's face, but somehow never does. Should I go after the idle separately?

BlackVert · Apr 28, 2011

toyman · Apr 29, 2011

I still can't see why the timing light can't illuminate the marks on the HB. Can you post a picture of your line of sight towards the HB. My timing light is bright enough that it only has to be pointed in the general direction of the balancer to read the setting. These two show the sight line to the balancer.

barthel · Apr 29, 2011

I'll take a picture of it and post it, but I can tell from your pic that I am apparently missing a piece of the indicator. I have been trying to illuminate the part in the circle to the left of the timing mark, on mine there's no pointer, just the circular part.

That may be part of my problem. Now it all sort of makes sense. After seeing where your marks are, my HB may have indeed slipped.

Thanks for the pic, it's all starting to come together now.

barthel · May 7, 2011

Update IV:

Well, my balancer HAD slipped, and my timing indicator was broken. I ordered a new balancer and pointer. Installed it last night, timed it this morning. I was able to time it easily (imagine that) and have the timing set to 14 degrees BTDC. The engine run great, no pinging at WOT. But, I have 2 other issues I need help with.

With this timing, it runs a bunch hotter than it did before. The temp gauge is pretty much straight up on the "R" in "Normal". If I stand on it, it'll actually go to the "M", then come back down. Would the timing affect that? Also, I don't know of this will cure the hard starting issue, I suppose I won't know 'til tomorrow morning.

Second, the idle is still an issue. With the auto in gear and foot on the brake it idles at 550 RPM's. It's still sort of "lope-y" and sounds like it may stall, but never does. What should my idle be, I can't find anything written as to what the idle should be set at.

AND, thanks for all your help gents, I couldn't have done it without ya.

toyman · May 7, 2011

Temps are normal. Advancing the timing will also make the car run slightly warmer. If the IAC is original I would just replace it. It's a solenoid device and they do wear out over time. The rpm is commanded by the PCM and should be about 650-700 rpm at idle.

BlackVert · May 7, 2011

just in case ... the IAC is the idle air control ... it is attached to the throttle body.

barthel · May 12, 2011

Update V: (hopefully the last for a while)

Replaced the IAC this afternoon. It idles like a champ!!!! No lope, no sputter and dead on at 700RPM's.

This was cold and still in the garage, but that's the best it's idled since I started this thread.

Thanks to BlackVert, toyman, and everyone else who got me through this. You guys ROCK!!!!

BlackVert · May 12, 2011

great news!

toyman · May 12, 2011

That's the great thing about new electrical parts, especially when the old ones are just that , OLD!

barthel · May 13, 2011

well, I guess I was lying when I said this would be the last one. However, it's not really bad news, just a question.

I got to drive my 'stang today. I think I advanced the timing just a bit too much. It runs great, but the engine sound (not feels or acts) wound out at about 2500 RPM's. When I let off the gas from highway speed, I notice a slight rumble through the exhaust, but no backfire.

BUT, after it warmed up, it still idles low, just over 500 now. It's smooth and doesn't sound like it's going to stall, but it's actually lower than it was before I changed the IAC valve.

My question is, if I retard the timing, will it bump the idle? If not, my thought is that I should re-time it, and if it still idles low do a base idle reset. Thoughts?

toyman · May 13, 2011

Retarding the timing would normally slow the idle. However, the idle speed is commanded by the PCM. If the timing is okay then I would do the idle reset as the PCM may need to adjust to the new IAC. Without going back to earlier posts, have you checked the TPS reading (KOEO) in the idle position? You want to verify that the TPS signal is where the PCM expects it to be at idle.

barthel · May 13, 2011

No, I have not checked the TPS readings, I guess that's my next stop.

Prior to replacing the IAC, I disconnected the battery overnight so it would immediately pick up the new IAC.

I'll check the TPS and see what it does.

I should do any timing changes first though, correct?

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