Timing

I just ordered a new cap, rotor, plugs, and wires and want to get the most out of them ass possible. By the single wire connector, what do you mean? I see there is a plug in the front right under the cap but that has like 5 or so wires in it. And when you point your timing light at the crank pulley, where do you aim it at? It doesnt look like much access to it. What i can see though is a little bracket with a eyelet in it - am i supposed to aim it there or at the very top of the pullry or what? And whats the reason of pulling out the module/plug thing? Thanks.
 
the spout removes the timing advance from the puter - you should do it. if you trace the TFI harness upstream about 6 inches, you will find it. pull the chip (spout) out of the end of it.

i like to use one of those silver markers to mark the timing marks on the balancer. some use white out or chalk. i dont like using the advance mechanism on timing lights, so i mark 10* and whatever i want (12 or 14*, etc). then loosen the dizzy hold down - i find using a 1/4" ratchet and a swivel and some extensions works best. move the dizzy where you want it and lock it down. recheck the timing (tightening the hold down can move the timing slightly). install the spout.

if while driving at any time you hear pinging, back the timing down ASAP.

good luck.
 
ok, i found the little chip thing, but im still not sure where the light is supposed to be pointing at on the crank. all i can see of the crank pulley from above is a little bracket with an eyelet and then about 2 inches on the right it has a little triangle pointer. Is that where im supposed to aim the light at?
 
Yes. That's where you read it. I tell you what I'd do. I'd get under the car with a flashlight and a bottle of white-out (car not running) and take a look at the marks on the crank pulley. BTW you may have to bump the starter a couple of times to get all the marks down at the bottom. Mark a line at 0. Mark a dot at 10. Mark two dots at 15. Then when you get back up top with the timing light, you can see the marks much better and you won't have to try to read the numbers as they whiz by at 700 rpm.
 
I actually find it easier to change timing with the car at about 2k rpm, that way the light is not flashing, but its almost stuck on and you can read the timing marks way easier.
 
AJBlackGT said:
I actually find it easier to change timing with the car at about 2k rpm, that way the light is not flashing, but its almost stuck on and you can read the timing marks way easier.
might i ask, do you have a third hand? im a retard and have enough trouble keeping the timing light wires from getting sucked into the serpentine belt and holding the gun (not jambing it into a pulley) and moving the dizzy. :)

im just messing with you - that sounds like a good idea (though i have not had trouble with setting it at idle) - just thought i would bring up that it is one more thing to occupy one's self with while timing the car (if it is his first time timing a car). an assistant holding the pedal/linkage is a different story.