Tips and tricks spark plug replacement

935point0 · Jun 21, 2006

Who can give some tips on changing spark plugs on a 01' modular engine. It doesn't look like there is much room.

Thanks!

03ghoststang · Jun 21, 2006

for some people it can be tricky but first thing is to unplug the connector at the coil plug, then remove the little bolt that holds it in place and it should be able to move around and pop out... the pasenger side is more tricky but with a swivel and extensions it can be done....there is no need to remove anything liek the fuel lines or stuff like that

Rocketman · Jun 21, 2006

Get one of these spark plug extensions. You don't have to remove the fuel rails.

PULMEOVR · Jun 21, 2006

Spark plug extensions? Is that just a deep socket?

Kilgore Trout · Jun 21, 2006

I have posted this information so many times...

Search for:
COP
AGSF-32C
spark plug blowout
search for posts by me with the word "silicone" in them

Also read the Bullitt Archive articles about chaging, reading, and selecting spark plugs

www.bullittarchive.com

CRZYHRSGT · Jun 21, 2006

Rocketman said:
Get one of these spark plug extensions. You don't have to remove the fuel rails.

Definitely! I couldn't tell you how many times I've tried doing plugs without one and the socket kept coming off the extension and falling back in the hole.

pulmeovr said:
Spark plug extensions? Is that just a deep socket?

The spark plug extensions have the spark plug socket (with the rubber ring to hold the plug) locked onto the regular extension, thus avoiding the aforementioned headache.

GDawg · Jun 21, 2006

CRZYHRSGT said:
Definitely! I couldn't tell you how many times I've tried doing plugs without one and the socket kept coming off the extension and falling back in the hole.

The spark plug extensions have the spark plug socket (with the rubber ring to hold the plug) locked onto the regular extension, thus avoiding the aforementioned headache.

Wrap some duct tape around your plug socket and your driver extension. It won't fall off anymore. Use a swivel at the top of the extension for more flexibility. The only hard plug for me is the one closest to the passenger firewall.

BurningRubber · Jun 21, 2006

You guys are making it sound really hard... haha.

You dont absoloutly need swivels, or anything... just the right sized deep socket for the plugs, the correct socket for the COPS and an extention for the ratchet.

As far as moving stuff out of the way on the drivers side there is one little vaccum line and an electical connector that you can unplug and move aside if its in your way... youll know just what one it is. It may also help to remove the PCV vaccum line.

The passenger side isnt hard, just remove the intake tube running to the throttle body. There is one sensor plug that you can disconnect, again youll see which one it is.

Other than that, the BIGGEST aid will be a telescoping magnet to fish the plug out, cause the plug wells are deep and you cant fit your fingers in there very well, lol.

Make sure you blow the wells out with some air before you pull the plug, alot of dirt can fall in when you pull the COP out...

Dope 97GT · Jun 21, 2006

Its not hard at all until you figure out you bought a car with 2 sparkplug blowouts and now one wont go back in like me

BurningRubber · Jun 21, 2006

Dope 97GT said:
Its not hard at all until you figure out you bought a car with 2 sparkplug blowouts and now one wont go back in like me

Damn...

Use that as an excuse for a PI swap...

urban96 · Jun 22, 2006

what do you tq the plugs down to?

stroked4.6 · Jun 22, 2006

urban96 said:
what do you tq the plugs down to?

I torque mine down to 14ft lbs.

Dope 97GT · Jun 22, 2006

i couldnt even get the one to 4 and then it would spin loose

but im lookin for some npi head to port and polish or maybe just sell the car and buy a 99+...which is what i really want.

BurningRubber · Jun 22, 2006

I tourqed mine in really snug.

PlatinumDevil · Jun 22, 2006

Yea so did the ford dealership when i had it in for an inspection... they tell me my plugs are bad and then torque them to 30 some lbs of torque, so i haven't been able to change them, i might try again today but if i strip the heads... im going to stick my face in my scorpion cage for an hour.

BurningRubber · Jun 22, 2006

PlatinumDevil said:
i might try again today but if i strip the heads... im going to stick my face in my scorpion cage for an hour.

That sounds like a load of fun... lol.

What I meant by really snug was not tourqing them down as tight as I possibly could. I got them finger tight, and then set a moderate turn of the ratchet untill I felt it snug a little more, and stopped.

CanadaStang · Jun 22, 2006

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=589968

GDawg · Jun 22, 2006

BurningRubber said:
You guys are making it sound really hard... haha.

You dont absoloutly need swivels, or anything... just the right sized deep socket for the plugs, the correct socket for the COPS and an extention for the ratchet.

As far as moving stuff out of the way on the drivers side there is one little vaccum line and an electical connector that you can unplug and move aside if its in your way... youll know just what one it is. It may also help to remove the PCV vaccum line.

The passenger side isnt hard, just remove the intake tube running to the throttle body. There is one sensor plug that you can disconnect, again youll see which one it is.

Other than that, the BIGGEST aid will be a telescoping magnet to fish the plug out, cause the plug wells are deep and you cant fit your fingers in there very well, lol.

Make sure you blow the wells out with some air before you pull the plug, alot of dirt can fall in when you pull the COP out...

Duct tape is more common than a telescoping magnet.

And maybe your car is different but over that plug nearest the passenger fire wall (plug #4?) I have at least five hoses and harnesses. Some can't be removed or disconnected, hence a simple swivel will help tremdously. This is just from my experience.

And be sure to suck out the debris from the holes BEFORE removing the plugs.

One more thing... torque 7 - 14 ft/lbs and no more. I think that's about hand tight and then a 1/4 turn.

twogts4us · Jun 22, 2006

When I was ready to install the new plugs, I stuck the old plug on the end of a foot long piece of rubber fuel line, then dabbed some anti seize on the threads and ran it down into the plug port as far as I could until I felt resistance. Then I removed it, cleaned the threads, dabbed a bit more anti seize on it, and repeated. I did this until I could run it all the way down without resistance. Then I dabbed the new plugs and installed. You dont want to screw up these aluminum heads!
Other than this tip, I essentially followed the instructions on the Bullitt Registry as someone noted above. Easy stuff, but take your time.

Stang|ess · Jun 22, 2006

7 is way too little. I believe its 11-14 ft lbs.

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