to Install a higher stall Torque converter or not?

Well there are a few things you need to look at. First remember the stall is only going to make you "faster" from a dig or low speed roll, anything above 25-30mph the stall will not improve performance. Next you don’t want to go cheap, I spent close to $1,000 for my PI 3200 converter. I don’t know a lot about the B&M’s but if its anything like their shift kits I would stay away and go with a big name converter. Adding a converter will also require you to get a better tranny cooler if you don’t already have one. When its all said and done you will have close to or over $1000 into this and that’s if you get a cheaper one.

If it were me I would do something that will improve performance all through the power band. For $1000+ you can get a pretty nice nitrous kit or just save up for a blower. I didn’t even touch my tranny until this year and I ran 11.64 w/ a 1.8 60’ with it when it was stock.

As for drivability, I have a 3200 and it drive like stock IMO. I guess you can tell its there a little bit but its not like the RPMs are shooting up and the car isn’t even moving. I love driving the car with it and it is ridiculous from a dig or 20mph hit. My car is pretty close to a DD too so it sees the streets quite often.

Agreed that the money is best spent somewhere where it improves the performance across the rpm/mph spectrum. But also he has cams, which compliment a high stall converter as well. As for spending a grand, yes if you're throwing 475rwhp+ at a TC and want to run 10's/11's a 3 piece with billet cover made by the best is a pretty good idea. An edge or DirtyDogg and BC automotive TC's are great. I went with a company here in Cali (Spec-Rite) for a 10.5" hand built single disc that I had seen personally used at the track with crazy reliability in car's going low 11's every Wednesday. One guy went through so many TC's (running 10.2's) when he chose the same company I did he bought two and a hasn't in over a year opened the second box.
They do help with less drivetrain loss, but don't expect huge gains as that's only really the case with boosted cars. I usually factor 19% drivetrain loss with my built tranny over the 20% loss of stock when i figure out my flywheel hp/tq.
Whether you get one or not, you should still have a tranni cooler.

And i'd recommend a 3400 stall for you - don't fear the stall. It's especially subtle with cams.

IMO, a higher stall is really only gonna help at the track.

Its most likely gonna make you spin your tires off on the street unless you have some serious tires.

justinschmidt1 said:

IMO, a higher stall is really only gonna help at the track.

Its most likely gonna make you spin your tires off on the street unless you have some serious tires.

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It's a torque multiplier - it's pretty useful being as though it only multiplies relative to the rpm/throttle given. Although it's only really beneficial to 1st gear - more torque in general or rear end gears or spraying off the line all add or feel like it's adding torque off the line making it harder to obtain traction, but it's still beneficial none the less. Cruising at 25 or so mph and slamming it down to WOT definitely reassures you of this.

a tuner doesn't change how the tranni operates at all really, your adjusting windows and line pressure surges.

I'll just quote myself because i explained how it works before:

Stock tranny isn't weak - good platform (outside 4th gear), just where it falls short is it's lack of ability to sustain line pressure needed to hold bands and clutches, and also from compromising gear overlap. These issues are dealt with via valvebody modification through the j-mod or supplied parts in a shift kit. I chose to use the J-mod's guidelines for altering the valvebody and for using a different 1-2 accumulator piston instead of the stage II kit's.
Also with the shift kit there's the bonus of having the "Gear Command " feature. Unlike the factory valve body calibration, the shift kit allows you to hold the trans in any gear for as long as needed, and it won't result in smoked clutches. Usually, when manual shifts are performed, the default line pressure for manual shift operation is way too low for holding the clutches and bands. The shift kit increases line pressure when manually shifted to save those friction surfaces.

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Thus sustaining line pressure instead of simply increasing it.

I went with a 9.5 inch edge racing converter, trans cooler, a deep trans pan(+2 quarts), and a P&A valve body. My car leaves hard from a dead stop. But, this can be a pain when you are driving down town light to light. It ran good with just those mods and some bolton's. It made a big difference when I put the cams in. I would recommend the edge converter. But, there will be some drivability issues.

I suffered NO drivability issues with the 3200 stall - only way i can even tell it has a stall just cruising around town is the decreased off-throttle creep.

CobraRed_96_GT said:

I suffered NO drivability issues with the 3200 stall - only way i can even tell it has a stall just cruising around town is the decreased off-throttle creep.

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+1