To those that have painted/dyed interior using SEM paint...

projectfiveo · Jun 28, 2010

Ok I finally got around to do this on some kick panels and console this weekend. Not very pleased.... Ok to start with here is what I did, I coated in purple power wiped and let dry, them washed in soap and water, then scrubbed with 3m scotchbrite green pads. then i let dry for few hrs, sprayed sem satin black interior dye, in several light coats. Interior was grey by the way changing to black. I let it bake in 90 degree hot sun rest of day and most of today, looked good, i go to store these away, and accidently brush the console against the side of a CARDBOARD box lightly and it scuffs the black off showing grey again..wtf?

I just paid 13 bucks a can for Interior dye, when I could have just went to the dollar store and paid 1$ for normal black spray paint?? Cause Its no difference.. Did i do something wrong, I need advice here, cause I need to spray my whole interior black and I dont want to have to touch it up everytime I take the car for a spin..... Cant believe this stuff doesnt hold up any better then this

281pony · Jun 28, 2010

go to autozone and get rustoleam interior paint.

there will only be one shade of black, its 4-5 bucks a can. i used this and its definately tough. matches oem black NEARLY perfectly under the flash of a camera.

no experience with that stuff you bought, however this is all my prep was with the rustoleam. i took the parts off, used go-jo on it with my hands. rinsed it off with water, let it dry. NO sanding, no other prep work.

i use go-jo for nearly everything in life and it works better then any other product for me. i swear by it..

1991notchbackLX · Jun 28, 2010

Did you use the SEM vinyl and plastic prep spray or the SEM adhesion promoter? You should have done a bit more research on plastic and vinyl prep. Clean the part with Dawn and warm water and dry well, wipe with a good grease and wax remover with a clean lint-free cloth, spray and wipe with the SEM vinyl and plastic prep spray, spray liberally with adhesion promoter and then apply one LIGHT coat of SEM paint while the adhesion promoter is still wet. Wait fifteen minutes between coats and apply up to four coats. You can also wipe the part with a tack cloth to remove any lint or particles between steps of the prep phase stated above. Follow these steps and you'll have great results. Also, DO NOT touch the part with your bare fingers during any of the prep phases or you're asking for poor results and adhesion problems. Good luck!

projectfiveo · Jun 28, 2010

1991notchbackLX said:
Did you use the SEM vinyl and plastic prep spray or the SEM adhesion promoter? You should have done a bit more research on plastic and vinyl prep. Clean the part with Dawn and warm water and dry well, wipe with a good grease and wax remover with a clean lint-free cloth, spray and wipe with the SEM vinyl and plastic prep spray, spray liberally with adhesion promoter and then apply one LIGHT coat of SEM paint while the adhesion promoter is still wet. Wait fifteen minutes between coats and apply up to four coats. You can also wipe the part with a tack cloth to remove any lint or particles between steps of the prep phase stated above. Follow these steps and you'll have great results. Also, DO NOT touch the part with your bare fingers during any of the prep phases or you're asking for poor results and adhesion problems. Good luck!

thanks man i was just going by what everyone told me to do, they all just said clean with soap and water and spray... lesson learned, now i have to find a way to strip this crap off..

on the sem website i found these things, can you tell me what to get and what pieces need the vinyl prep?

sem plastic prep
sem plastic adhesive promotor
sem vinyl prep
sem sand free

im also thinking about using sem low luster clear to give the interior more added protection, what do you think?

You have done this in one of your cars, did you have any problems on any of yours after it was installed?

thanks again...

1991notchbackLX · Jun 28, 2010

projectfiveo said:
thanks man i was just going by what everyone told me to do, they all just said clean with soap and water and spray... lesson learned, now i have to find a way to strip this crap off..

on the sem website i found these things, can you tell me what to get and what pieces need the vinyl prep?

sem plastic prep
sem plastic adhesive promotor
sem vinyl prep
sem sand free

im also thinking about using sem low luster clear to give the interior more added protection, what do you think?

You have done this in one of your cars, did you have any problems on any of yours after it was installed?

thanks again...

No problem man, just sharing some of my experiences as I've painted a ton of interior parts and always had good results using the above method. The SEM part number for the Sand Free Adhesion Promoter is 38363. The SEM part number for the plastic and vinyl prep spray is 38353. I use Prep-All Grease and Wax Remover part number GSW362 as well. The most important part now is the paint. The best color match for 87-93 fox body black interior is SEM Color Coat "Landau Black" which is part number 15013.

As for the clear coat, I've never cleared any of their parts but I don't think glossy interior panels would match very well with the stock black interior plastics. From the factory they were all matte black. I haven't had ANY problems with SEM products rubbing off or scratching after install, you just have to let the paint cure and dry for a full two or three days before installing them bck in the car, the longer the better really. Kick panels are high traffic and get a ton of abuse so you may need to do those over once a year. I hope this helps!

For inspiration, this is(was) my interior all painted with SEM products:

Stever89 · Jun 28, 2010

So do y'all think I could covert an entire red interior over to black with the SEM stuff?

Onefine88 · Jun 28, 2010

Absolutely, I did it on my Orange vert. I recovered the seats and swapped the carpet with black.

capri debris · Jun 28, 2010

I know there's lots of advice on how to prep plastic for paint, but really, the best thing to clean parts with is AJAX powder.

Cervini actually recommends this with each ground effects kit they sell so all the release agent is removed before painting.

The main problem people have is almost every car at some time has some Armorall wiped on it, so NOTHING will stick until it's all gone. Armorall is tough to get off, so that is why AJAX is so helpful.

1. soap and water... rinse.
2. AJAX and water... rinse.
3. Mineral spirits... rinse.
4. AJAX again with a green Scotchbrite pad.... rinse, rinse and then rinse again.
5. wipe with alcohol... rinse.
6. wipe with plastic prep (from LMR)
7. paint in several light coats on a warm, sunny, low humidity day allowing it to dry between coats.
8. let it sit for SEVERAL days (or weeks) before trying to handle the pieces.
9. cleaning and rinsing is VERY important... you can NEVER get it TOO clean.

I painted an entire interior black that was composed of pieces of every color that you can imagine.
Mine turned out great and I need to take a key or a screwdriver to the paint to get it to scratch!!

I did use actual black kick panels because they're going to be getting abuse from everyones shoes, so painting them probably won't work in that area.

good luck.

Stever89 · Jun 28, 2010

89SSC18 said:
Absolutely, I did it on my Orange vert. I recovered the seats and swapped the carpet with black.

What color seat covers did you go with?

Onefine88 · Jun 28, 2010

I used the stock looking replacement Black tweed from Fox Mustang Restoration.

projectfiveo · Jun 28, 2010

Thanks again for the info. Have any idea what I can use to strip this stuff off so I can do it the right way and not damage the plastic?

LAZERREDGT · Jun 28, 2010

Dont let it bake to long in the heat.

GreatWhite · Jun 28, 2010

Stever89 said:
So do y'all think I could covert an entire red interior over to black with the SEM stuff?

Definitely. I did the porno red to black swap last year. Came out really nicely.

Stever89 · Jun 29, 2010

GreatWhite said:
Definitely. I did the porno red to black swap last year. Came out really nicely.

I'm going to get my black notch repainted this fall. A black interior would be perfect... hot, but perfect.

SVT32VDOHC · Jun 29, 2010

Spray bomb paint dries in almost minutes. Letting it back in the hot 90* sun all day was not a smart move. You could let it sit in that hot sun for a few minutes, then take them inside and let them sit a day or two. The longer they sit the better. I painted a couple things on Hack Job painted, installed them the same day, lightly scratched some things. A couple days later I was installing more stuff, and I couldn't scratch it off if I tried. I used SEM interior paint.

projectfiveo · Jun 29, 2010

well thats good to know cause im geting everything painted, then wrapping in plastic and placing in storage until i complete the restoration, which honestly will be a couple years the way things are looking if not longer

El_CUCUY · Jun 30, 2010

Wow thats never happened to me... All i did was hit it with simple green then used a tack cloth right before painting. The only diff is that i used SEM in a quart can and used a spray gun not a rattle can. This stuff has held up just fine.

tevans720 · Jun 30, 2010

I have used a $6 plastic interior paint (spray bomb). Cleaned well, pressure washed, scrubbed with scotch bright pad, and let dry. Started with a plastic interior primer. 1 coat, beer, 2nd coat, beer....... Used 4 coats of primer and waited for a hour. Then started with the black plastic paint. I was worried about it scratching easily so I put 7 coats of black then clear coated with plastic clear coat. Let bake in the sun for 30 min then layed it in the garage for a week.

You can hit that with a hammer and the paint wont chip. It's kinda shinny now with the clear coat but not enough to blind you while driving.

Just stick with a paint made for plastic interior and coat it well and let sit for some time and you should be fine

To those that have painted/dyed interior using SEM paint...

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