Torque box repair

stihl-066 · Jan 9, 2006

I just purchased a 69 mach 1. Not knowing about this at time of purchase. The car needs new torque boxes, front floor supports put in with some knoew floor pans. I had the car inspected and they said nothing about this. So needless to say I am not very happy. How tough of a job is this. I am pretty good with a mig welder. Is there any good articles or books that show you a step by step process. Or does anybody know of a shop in Washington state that does this.

lauras70mach1 · Jan 9, 2006

I was quoted $1000 to do mine, but I ended up doing them myself. Took me about 40 hours after it was all said and done, but the only tools I had were an angle grinder and a welder.

You pretty have to put new toe boards in when you do torque boxes, too.

stihl-066 · Jan 9, 2006

It needs new toe boards anyhow. they have holes in them that have a really crappy patch job. How hard was it to do.

t_chelle16 · Jan 9, 2006

My 1st 67 needed (among many, many other things), a new torque box, driver's side floor pan, and toe board. My dad did the torque box (it was before he taught me to weld), but I did the floor & toeboard. It really isn't that difficult. That said, I'd prefer not to have to do it again, but if I had to, I'd do it myself rather than pay someone else to do it.

-Chelle

Jester67 · Jan 9, 2006

I am going to add one to the right side on my 67 and was planning on asking this question today. So guys any links?:SNSign:

milner351 · Jan 9, 2006

a friend of mine has just completed a good bit of floor / subframe repair on a 67 coupe. May not be exactly what you are looking for, but may give you some good ideas / examples.

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/dstolarc/album?.dir=/8c56&urlhint=actn,ren:s,1:f,0

68_stanger · Jan 9, 2006

I did both on my 68 among some other things, not really that terribly difficult, just time consuming.

geostang351 · Jan 9, 2006

Nice job dude!! I have a few questions Milner that I'd like to ask about your work

The frame rail repair in the front; you fabricated a steel piece that fitted over the frame rail that you welded. How'd you fab it? What guage steel? Did you use a differnet frame rail and just fit it over this one? Explain

2. After you had it sand blasted, I see NO signs of flashing and there seems to be some time passing between blasting and primer as you applied POR 15 first. Did you protect the metal with a light coat of oil on the metal? How'd you do it.

3. I see you painted (primed) the car Dec 30th and you live in Detroit. Is your garage heated to do this? ANy problems with adhesion and temp.?

Thanks! Kep up the good work.

stihl-066 · Jan 9, 2006

Hey thanks Milner351. That gave me some good ideas. As my frame rail is rusted out in about the same spot and the rest is pretty solid. Are the torque boxes on a 68 and 69 similar in repairing wise.

jmagilto · Jan 9, 2006

VMF Data on Floors / FrameRails / Torque Box

Hi,
Here is a thread from the VMF that talks about how to do the framerails.
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/f...ords=+jmagilto&topic=&Search=true#Post1341487

Here is a photo essay of my floor job on my 65 coupe. Since I added a DS torque box and had to do the framerail and toe board on the PS, you might find it useful
http://www.nenny.com/floors/index.html

take care,
jer

jmagilto · Jan 9, 2006

FOllowup

ps - The torque boxes for non convertible are the same up to and including 70. You could put a 68-70 PS Torque box in a 65-67 to stiffen the chassis, just as I put a 67-70 DS Torque box in my 65.

stihl-066 · Jan 9, 2006

Hey jmagilto, how long did it take you to do this project. I plan on taking all of the interior out since it is going to the paint shop as well for a fresh coat of silver jade. The last guy that somewhat fixed this gives good body men a bad name.

stihl-066 · Jan 9, 2006

Also did you pull the motor or tranny to do the repairs.

Great68 · Jan 9, 2006

I had to do Both torque boxes, front sub-floor rails, and toe boards.

We removed all the old parts ourselves (my dad and I) with an angle grinder (Went through MANY cutting discs). And had a friend weld the new parts back on.

I would definately not want to do it again.

69 Rustang · Jan 10, 2006

If you do it yourself--don't be afraid to pull the dash out to do the repair. With the dash in you are fighting the dashboard, the pedals, and maybe the steering column if you don't take it out. I wish I had done that first because I ended up completely gutting the car later anyway. I think my work would have turned out a bit nicer on the toeboards and torque boxes had I pulled the dash and got out the sandblaster.

I think that repair can be done with the motor and tranny in the car as long as you support the structure evenly and firmly at many points. Mine were already out, but they wouldn't have been in the way. The only concern would be the weight and sagging of the structure. I built framing under the car at the ends while the center body was supported with stands while doing the torque boxes and the floor pans to keep it all level and square.

milner351 · Jan 10, 2006

geostang351 said:
Nice job dude!! I have a few questions Milner that I'd like to ask about your work

The frame rail repair in the front; you fabricated a steel piece that fitted over the frame rail that you welded. How'd you fab it? What guage steel? Did you use a differnet frame rail and just fit it over this one? Explain

2. After you had it sand blasted, I see NO signs of flashing and there seems to be some time passing between blasting and primer as you applied POR 15 first. Did you protect the metal with a light coat of oil on the metal? How'd you do it.

3. I see you painted (primed) the car Dec 30th and you live in Detroit. Is your garage heated to do this? ANy problems with adhesion and temp.?

Thanks! Kep up the good work.

Thanks, but I can't take the credit, this was all done by a friend of mine, and believe it or not, this was his first work with a welder, he just had an hour or so of tutoring from an expert friend. I can answer your questions however.

1. the frame rail fabrication is a frame rail from NPD, reworked to fit, metal gauge was the same as the NPD replacement part.

2. NO OIL ON SANDBLASTED METAL. VERY low humidity this time of year, and Garage is heated.

jmagilto · Jan 10, 2006

Hi - Sorry - my web site is down - it should be back up by Jan 11. I did not pull the motor or trans. I took a week off between xmas and new years that year and did the job start to finish in 5days. 5 very long days.

Don't get alll wrapped around the axle on dissassemly. Take out the carpet seats and other interior parts. Cover/protect the dash and just do it.

Good Luck!
jer

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