Torque box reinforcement with cage?

DeathProof88

Active Member
Dec 11, 2015
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PA
Hey guys, I was thinking that reinforcing my torque boxes might be a good idea. I have a welded in 6pt cage in there, would I still need to reinforce them? Or does the cage help them? Also same question for sub frame connectors. Thanks!
 
Well, the BMR reinforcement kit looks pretty good.. but I'm not sure on control arms yet.. the way it sits now there's no upper control arms. I'm going to be diving local PA roads with twists, turns, and bumps and hit the dragstrip a few times a year. I put the car up on jack stands today lol. I'm ready to get it right but I don't have the research done.
 
Well, the BMR reinforcement kit looks pretty good.. but I'm not sure on control arms yet.. the way it sits now there's no upper control arms. I'm going to be diving local PA roads with twists, turns, and bumps and hit the dragstrip a few times a year. I put the car up on jack stands today lol. I'm ready to get it right but I don't have the research done.
Start with this book. Great theory and if you are able to fabricate you could build most of what you want with the included drawings.

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What a can of worms I just opened haha, while trying to research for a good reinforcement kit I've been scared into replacing my ssm lift bars for something else.
Are trying to drag race the car or road race ?

Sounds like drag race by the control arms you have. The Ssm and the old mega bites were setup to jam the pinion angle in a way to try to make the car bite harder. The boxes with no reinforcement will tear out over time with the solid style bushing the Ssm
Have in them.

The simple old school tq box reinforcement kit with the plates that sandwich them together then stitch weld will take you a long way.

I have UPR pro series double adjustable upper in my car, team z street beast single adjustable lowers, strange 10 way shocks, UPR bolt on pro street anti roll bar , and team z drag springs. The cars been 1.27 60 foot with close to 100 hp pulled out of it

You don’t need anything super fancy to make them work.

 
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Just weld them up. If you can catch them before they start tearing you will be good to go. There was an article in MM&FF that showed how to weld them up and add some stiffeners. I think I have a copy of the article.

@Noobz347 - if I can find the article where can I put it so it doesn’t get buried on here?
 
Just weld them up. If you can catch them before they start tearing you will be good to go. There was an article in MM&FF that showed how to weld them up and add some stiffeners. I think I have a copy of the article.

@Noobz347 - if I can find the article where can I put it so it doesn’t get buried on here?


Do what I did with the Fuel Flow Forensics article. We'll put it into a file and make it downloadable from the resource section.
 
Are trying to drag race the car or road race ?

Sounds like drag race by the control arms you have. The Ssm and the old mega bites were setup to jam the pinion angle in a way to try to make the car bite harder. The boxes with no reinforcement will tear out over time with the solid style bushing the Ssm
Have in them.

The simple old school tq box reinforcement kit with the plates that sandwich them together then stitch weld will take you a long way.

I have UPR pro series double adjustable upper in my car, team z street beast single adjustable lowers, strange 10 way shocks, UPR bolt on pro street anti roll bar , and team z drag springs. The cars been 1.27 60 foot with close to 100 hp pulled out of it

You don’t need anything super fancy to make them work.

Thanks for the advice, a few times a season I'll be at the drag strip, other times I take a cruise around the area. If your setup is decent for street/strip use I might just copy yours.
 
Thanks for the advice, a few times a season I'll be at the drag strip, other times I take a cruise around the area. If your setup is decent for street/strip use I might just copy yours.
I drive my car 60 plus miles round trip to work 2-3 times a week sometimes when there isn’t salt on the ground.

Still has a Front sway bar

Has full tubular UPRk member and Viking front coil overs with heavy ass 300lb springs. Drives like a normal car
 
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Thanks for the advice, a few times a season I'll be at the drag strip, other times I take a cruise around the area. If your setup is decent for street/strip use I might just copy yours.
Street trim then a rear wheel swap and strut and shock adjustment and you’re making passes
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The ;picture in front of the ferris wheel is Killer.......
Reminds me of one of the first " 3 dog night" albums.... " Suitable for Framing" .....
 
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