tps

cld783

New Member
Sep 15, 2004
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simple question, do you have to adjust a brand new "throttle position sensor" when replaced? or do you only adjust your old ones or ones that may have been misadjusted? if so whats the best setting? thanks.
 
cool thanks man much appreciated, by the way nice wheelie id crap my pants if i pulled up next to you at a stop light and seen the front end come up like that. :D
 
No I don't think you do. Our EEC baselines the TPS on startup. So no matter what you set it to, the computer resets it when you crank up the car. I never set mine last night when I swapped throttle bodys, and it didn't need it.
 
So setting your TPS voltage to 0.99v is like an old wive's tale then? :shrug:

How come I've heard that when ECM gets anything over 1.00v signal from the car, it's considered "cruising" voltage? I've had my TPS mis-adjusted (over 1v) and the idle would sit at 1500 for minutes at a time (and between shifts). Get it to .98 or .99 and the idle problem went away. Hell, the idle would raise like a bastard if I mistakenly pushed the sensor too far.

So what's the scoop on this? I'm curious. Because this link, and what I've heard for years, says different......? Talk to me, boys! :nice:

Edit: And thanks, cld783 . That picture is when it was a 15 second 'wonder'. :rlaugh:
 
I guess it depends on what computer you have in your car. I think the 87-93 you needed to, but the 94 and 95 you didn't. Or if you have the A9L computer you need to. But the stock 94-95 5.0 computers baselined it on startup.

rootus said:
Unless you have swapped your EEC to an A9L, there is no point in adjusting the TPS because it is baselined by the EEC on startup.

Dave

Take from this thread
 
ya ive actually heard that diff tps voltages have diff benefits but nothing much to really make a big deal about, mostly just set it somewhere near .98 .99 and make sure when you press the throttle its all smooth with no jumps in readings. i do have a 5.0 liter non HO efi 1989 motor out of a ford truck i believe in my 1986 crown victoria. so if that makes a difference in if i have to set it or not let me know.
 
i have heard it all too. it should baseline itself, but then again, with all the idle-surge issues people have, i would remove all the 'extra' things the puter has to do (make it easier for the thing).
 
HISSIN50 said:
for real? im not one to mess with the setting, but i would if that was my static reading. :)

Yeah, that's what it says, not a Ford shop manual but specs. shouldn't vary (though they probably do from one source to the next) I have mine set at .99v or so.

It says the minimum (closed throttle) should be set at .20v on the 5.0 and .34v on the 2.3. Maximum (WOT) is 4.84v for both engines.
 
PNY PWR said:
Yeah, that's what it says, not a Ford shop manual but specs. shouldn't vary (though they probably do from one source to the next) I have mine set at .99v or so.

It says the minimum (closed throttle) should be set at .20v on the 5.0 and .34v on the 2.3. Maximum (WOT) is 4.84v for both engines.
the thing about this is the parameters of the sensor. i would think that if one set it that low, it would be out of spec (most things on the EEC can adapt ~25%), and toss a code.
im not at all disbelieving you - i trust you and enjoy readin' your posts. i just am surprised at that spec. :) interesting.
 
i have had alot of issues with my tps, so i finally got around to buying a new one. took my car being down for 3 months to get one at that :rolleyes:

i tried to set mine to .99, highest i could get was .6x i believe. i kept getting the codes, so finally i just moved it to the opposite extremes and that was around .2x volts and the maximum of .6x volts.

at one point or another, each reading threw codes and then disappeared. i noticed some differences in them both. sometimes it would run normal, sometimes it was a noticable performance loss, less responsive, idle issues, lights dimming up to stops.

so i wouldnt necessarly agree you can just throw it on. maybe it had something to do with mine being shot though? :shrug:
 
88SC_GT said:
i have had alot of issues with my tps, so i finally got around to buying a new one. took my car being down for 3 months to get one at that :rolleyes:

i tried to set mine to .99, highest i could get was .6x i believe. i kept getting the codes, so finally i just moved it to the opposite extremes and that was around .2x volts and the maximum of .6x volts.

at one point or another, each reading threw codes and then disappeared. i noticed some differences in them both. sometimes it would run normal, sometimes it was a noticable performance loss, less responsive, idle issues, lights dimming up to stops.

so i wouldnt necessarly agree you can just throw it on. maybe it had something to do with mine being shot though? :shrug:

Interesting post....there is supposed to be an adjustable and a non-adjustable TPS according to my manual. I would assume w/ the non-adjustable one could just throw it on. :shrug:
 
PNY PWR said:
Interesting post....there is supposed to be an adjustable and a non-adjustable TPS according to my manual. I would assume w/ the non-adjustable one could just throw it on. :shrug:
i dont follow the rumors that closely, but here goes: I think the 'non-adjustable' TPS's were for cars which are supposed to zero out at start up; thinking being that with such lash control, there was no need to fine tune it.

this did not stop people from hogging out holes and making them adjustable. LOL.