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  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

Tranny Issues...Please Help.

  • Thread starter Thread starter rabidscoobie
  • Start date Start date Feb 26, 2008
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rabidscoobie

10 Year Member
Jun 21, 2007
616
12
48
College Station,TX
Mar 4, 2008
#21
  • Mar 4, 2008
  • #21
eliot22 said:
A few years ago when I had a Fox body, I found a guy on Stangnet who rebuilt my T-5 for $100 and did it in a week. You can find a rebuild kit for a T-45 for $175 here: http://www.promotionpowertrain.com/1231590.html
If you can find someone who can do it for you it might save you a bundle.
Click to expand...

True but the local shop is charging $150 labor the rest is parts,and the reason for the higher amount is for the carbon synchro kit+rebuild kit+beefed up forks.So 150 for labor isnt bad since i have no clue how to do a tranny.anuthing else im good for but not trannies.Also I would be pulling the tranny and taking that to them,so they would just be doing a bench rebuild.They told me at most it would be 875 and thats for a complete rebuild...all internals,of course thats worst case.And I will be getting the parts from the link you gave,thats who I have talking with already.Thx for any help given so far.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
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109
LA, CA
Mar 4, 2008
#22
  • Mar 4, 2008
  • #22
I'm not trying to argue with this, just trying to get to the bottem of the BS =-)
 

rabidscoobie

10 Year Member
Jun 21, 2007
616
12
48
College Station,TX
Mar 4, 2008
#23
  • Mar 4, 2008
  • #23
Rusty67 said:
I'm not trying to argue with this, just trying to get to the bottem of the BS =-)
Click to expand...


Np I didnt feel that you where,I just felt that I sounded as if I was.I do appreciate the help.

So im feeling that I have the T45,So im gonna get it rebuilt locally with beefier parts,order a King Cobra Clutch,Clutch cable w/quadrant-wide trac stabilizer,and a Tri-Axe shifter,new tranny mount.I think that should take care of any and all problems,just in case any other parts are worn.Im looking at $1200-1300 for all.I could get the clutch from the ford dealer here but with the past probs i have had with them...welll I dont think so.Like I mentioned earlier it took 4 visits to their shop just to get the AC pulley installed right(under warranty or they wouldnt have done it),then theres this issue with the clutch,not to mention my dad just got a vehilcle from them and tried hooking up a hitch of wich they screwed up also...installed trailer hitch but did not do any wiring for it,and being a new model you cant splice into the tail lights,gotta have fuses and relays=$80+ then all wiring from the rear to underhood fuse box.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
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109
LA, CA
Mar 5, 2008
#24
  • Mar 5, 2008
  • #24
I have heard a lot of good things about the MGW shifters. The only thing I don't like about the one on my dad's Bullitt (Tremec 3650) is that the spring for 5th/reverse is REALLY tough. Otherwise, I love that shifter.
 

rabidscoobie

10 Year Member
Jun 21, 2007
616
12
48
College Station,TX
Mar 5, 2008
#25
  • Mar 5, 2008
  • #25
Now that really looks interesting.Do you know how it compares to the Tri ax,Im only famaliar with Pro 50,didnt really care for that 1 and a friend had the B&M,of which seemed clunky,and my old boss has a Tri ax on his 98 supercharged GT and I really loved that,feels really nice.He dynod at around 370hp i think and i had no problems hitting the gears when I layed into it.
Pulling the tranny thursday and dropping it off,Ill keep yall informed on how it all goes,hopefully no more confusing probs,not gonna get the clutch and other parts until they actually confirm that it is a t45 just to be sure,even tho im about 99% sure it is.Thx for any and all help on this.

Oh 1 more thing anyone famaliar with Steedas Clutch cable kit,thinking of getting this one here:
http://www.steeda.com/products/clutch_adjuster_kits.php
I like the sounds of the other one better but thought I would check some others,after looking mine over really good on my car I believe that this may be the cause of the tranny probs,it looks kinda out of shape or something doesnt look right
 

eliot22

Founding Member
Sep 10, 2000
1,461
0
36
San Diego, CA
Mar 5, 2008
#26
  • Mar 5, 2008
  • #26
rabidscoobie said:
Now that really looks interesting.Do you know how it compares to the Tri ax,Im only famaliar with Pro 50,didnt really care for that 1 and a friend had the B&M,of which seemed clunky,and my old boss has a Tri ax on his 98 supercharged GT and I really loved that,feels really nice.He dynod at around 370hp i think and i had no problems hitting the gears when I layed into it.
Pulling the tranny thursday and dropping it off,Ill keep yall informed on how it all goes,hopefully no more confusing probs,not gonna get the clutch and other parts until they actually confirm that it is a t45 just to be sure,even tho im about 99% sure it is.Thx for any and all help on this.

Oh 1 more thing anyone famaliar with Steedas Clutch cable kit,thinking of getting this one here:
http://www.steeda.com/products/clutch_adjuster_kits.php
I like the sounds of the other one better but thought I would check some others,after looking mine over really good on my car I believe that this may be the cause of the tranny probs,it looks kinda out of shape or something doesnt look right
Click to expand...
I have a 2001 with a T-45 (like yours??) and I have the Steeda Tri-Ax and love it. I used to have a 1989 GT and I think the T-5 and T-45 feel very similar when shifting. I had a Pro-5.0 and didn't like it much because of the short handle. I got a longer handle and it felt just like the Tri-Ax. There was a lot of gear whine coming from it so I switched to the MGW. It was a little quiter, but I didn't like it. I'm not sure why, but it just didn't feel as good as the pro-5.0, the shifts were "softer". I think it's just a matter of taste. And even though the handle never rotated, the thought of banging on a handle that's holding onto a round shaft with a small set-screw made me feel uneasy. That would suck if it came loose and you couldn't shift at all.
I also had the Steeda adj. cable & quadrant w/ firewall adjuster on my 5.0. Never any problems after 4 years. But you might find this interesting: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/i..._info/drivetrn_clutch/quadrant_cable_tech.php
 

rabidscoobie

10 Year Member
Jun 21, 2007
616
12
48
College Station,TX
Mar 5, 2008
#27
  • Mar 5, 2008
  • #27
eliot22 said:
I have a 2001 with a T-45 (like yours??) and I have the Steeda Tri-Ax and love it. I used to have a 1989 GT and I think the T-5 and T-45 feel very similar when shifting. I had a Pro-5.0 and didn't like it much because of the short handle. I got a longer handle and it felt just like the Tri-Ax. There was a lot of gear whine coming from it so I switched to the MGW. It was a little quiter, but I didn't like it. I'm not sure why, but it just didn't feel as good as the pro-5.0, the shifts were "softer". I think it's just a matter of taste. And even though the handle never rotated, the thought of banging on a handle that's holding onto a round shaft with a small set-screw made me feel uneasy. That would suck if it came loose and you couldn't shift at all.
I also had the Steeda adj. cable & quadrant w/ firewall adjuster on my 5.0. Never any problems after 4 years. But you might find this interesting: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/i..._info/drivetrn_clutch/quadrant_cable_tech.php
Click to expand...


Thx,great info there.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
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109
LA, CA
Mar 5, 2008
#28
  • Mar 5, 2008
  • #28
I was going to post that link to the MM website but someone beat me to it haha. Like I said, I really like the MGW besides the hard spring going into 5th or reverse. The MGW shifter has really short throws which I love and it feels great to me. The only thing it doesn't have is adjustable spring bias.

My Hurst Pro-Billit would have been the most bitchen shifter of all time but I can't recomend it as it broke like 20 minutes after I started using it. I gota take it apart and figure out what the hell broke....
 

rabidscoobie

10 Year Member
Jun 21, 2007
616
12
48
College Station,TX
Mar 5, 2008
#29
  • Mar 5, 2008
  • #29
Rusty67 said:
I was going to post that link to the MM website but someone beat me to it haha. Like I said, I really like the MGW besides the hard spring going into 5th or reverse. The MGW shifter has really short throws which I love and it feels great to me. The only thing it doesn't have is adjustable spring bias.

My Hurst Pro-Billit would have been the most bitchen shifter of all time but I can't recomend it as it broke like 20 minutes after I started using it. I gota take it apart and figure out what the hell broke....
Click to expand...

Sorry to hear that,it sounds like you have my luck.lol
 

eliot22

Founding Member
Sep 10, 2000
1,461
0
36
San Diego, CA
Mar 5, 2008
#30
  • Mar 5, 2008
  • #30
I scanned a couple pages from my workshop manual. Apparently the tag location says you definitely have a T45 (as stated in item #8).
 

rabidscoobie

10 Year Member
Jun 21, 2007
616
12
48
College Station,TX
Mar 5, 2008
#31
  • Mar 5, 2008
  • #31
Hey thx for that,that is similar to the ID stuff you can read about on Tremec's site.Both say the same,what I dont get is why and how did Ford come up with it had a 3650.Heres what I think happenedwith the original clutch replace back in '06.I told them I needed a clutch for a T45,they give me the wrong one to begin with,so when I go back up there to say hey these bolt patterns dont fit(just remembered that)they say oh you have a 3650,give me a reciept for a 3650 to keep from lookin like a dumbass.I had to drive it this morning and guess what is goin on now,the throw-out bearing is chirrping at an idle,put just a tad amount of pressure on the pedal and it stops,I really dont know what type of clutch Ford may have given me....who knows.I called today to see if they could look up the original sale on their computers and they tell me no they cant they had their Ford Motorsports Licenseing pulled,not sure what he means there but I wouldnt doubt it as compitent as they are...lol.Thx again for the piece of info.
 

eliot22

Founding Member
Sep 10, 2000
1,461
0
36
San Diego, CA
Mar 5, 2008
#32
  • Mar 5, 2008
  • #32
It sounds like they are a bunch of buffoons. Looks like you might have to go with the rebuild, just in case the clutch caused any damage. Make sure you replace the flywheel too, don't just have it resurfaced.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Mar 6, 2008
#33
  • Mar 6, 2008
  • #33
As long as the flywheel has enough meat on it to be within spec and it is true then why replace it ?.... unless it has heat checks on it really bad or something.
 

rabidscoobie

10 Year Member
Jun 21, 2007
616
12
48
College Station,TX
Mar 6, 2008
#34
  • Mar 6, 2008
  • #34
I will definatly(however you spell it..lol) give it a really good lookin over.Thx again
 

eliot22

Founding Member
Sep 10, 2000
1,461
0
36
San Diego, CA
Mar 6, 2008
#35
  • Mar 6, 2008
  • #35
Stock iron flywheel is about $100. Better safe than sorry.
 

rabidscoobie

10 Year Member
Jun 21, 2007
616
12
48
College Station,TX
Mar 6, 2008
#36
  • Mar 6, 2008
  • #36
Well heres the throw-out bearing,the rest actully looks pretty normal.kinda hard to beleive.The bearing has a wicked wobble to it.


View attachment 327752

View attachment 327753

View attachment 327754
 
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