Tranny Problems.

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DJ MIKE A

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Nov 13, 2006

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Dec 25, 2006

#1

• Dec 25, 2006

• #1

Ok ok, this is what's goin on.

There are two big probs. The first one involves the clutch I think. What happens is many times when I come to a complete stop and I let the car out of gear, when I try to put it back into gear it will not go. When I am rolling there is no problem. One time when I was comming to a stop I was trying to put it into 1st and it actually started to go but when I was slowing down more it started grinding and jumped out. This problem is really annoying. Took me like 3 minutes to leave the drive through window at Wendy's the other day. People behind me were pissed.

The second problem is my 1st to 2nd shift. When I shift from 1st to 2nd at high RPMs (above about 4000) I hear a grinding noise.

Some info on the car:
About 2 months ago I installed a McCloud dual friction clutch as my stock one gave finally. The car is a 92GT with the WC T5. It is very lightly modded, basically stock. Could the answer to the first problem be that I still have the stock clutch quadrant? I just ordered a BBK adjustable one. One person has told me the second problem might be my block rings?

Please help me out I will greatly appreciate it. Merry Christmas guys!

 

89streetbeast

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Dec 4, 2006

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horton,ks

Dec 25, 2006

#2

• Dec 25, 2006

• #2

only thing i can help you with is the 1st to 2nd grind, your synchro's are about shot. the deal with getting it into gear, if you shift pretty hard you might have damaged or bent the 1st/2nd gear shift fork inside the tranny. been there done that lol. hopefully someone will chime in here soon

 

jrichker

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Dec 25, 2006

#3

• Dec 25, 2006

• #3

It sound more like clutch adjusment problems than syncro problems. If you have difficulty getting the car in gear from a dead stop, the clutch adjustment is usually the culprit. I like to have the clutch completely disengaged and still have about 1.5” travel left before the pedal hits the floor. If I shift only when the pedal hits the floor, there are several milliseconds that the clutch disk is not being driven by the engine. In theory, this lets the disk speed equalize and makes less work for the synchronizers – keep in mind that this is a theory, but it seems reasonable. This means that I have only about 1” of free play at the top before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch. Keep in mind that these figures are all approximate. When properly adjusted, there will not be any slack in the clutch cable. You will have 4-15 lbs preload on the clutch cable.

I would replace the stock quadrant with an aftermarket one. There are lots of good ones available at a very reasonable price. The stock OEM Ford clutch cable seems to be the favorite for durability. You'll need a firewall adjuster to use the stock cable. I have the Ford FMS unit with an adjustable Ford cable and it has worked very well for me.

One of the best firewall adjusters is available at http://www.fioreperformanceparts.com

 

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DJ MIKE A

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Nov 13, 2006

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Dec 25, 2006

#4

• Dec 25, 2006

• #4

I have already ordered the BBK adjustable clutch quadrant and firewall adjuster. When it gets in I will try the way you say to adjust it. But if it was in fact a clutch adjustment problem why would it only cause problems when my car is at a complete stop.

 

jrichker

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#5

• Dec 25, 2006

• #5

The dead stop problem is the worst case for the clutch & syncros. The disk is turning and the syncros and gears are not - kind of hard to get any speed match at all. That's what syncros do - match the rotational speed of the gears and the clutch disk. When a match is achieved, you are able to engage the selected gear.

 

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SteedaFox91

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Dec 19, 2005

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Dec 25, 2006

#6

• Dec 25, 2006

• #6

+1 for Jrichker. Def. sounds like a clutch adjustment problem. You should be able to get the proper adjustment that you need out of that clutch quadrant and adjuster that you bought. I like the Fiore piece, its top notch and in my car.

 

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DJ MIKE A

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Dec 25, 2006

#7

• Dec 25, 2006

• #7

Jrichker, i can't thank you enough! I will mos def come back after i have installed the firewall adjuster and let you know how it worked out! I was so nervous about this problem and now it looks like a cheap and easy fix. I do hope you are right. thank you again.

 

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Sicarius428

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Jan 6, 2004

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Dec 26, 2006

#8

• Dec 26, 2006

• #8

Had the same problem and the firewall adjuster, cable and quadrant didn't help for me. My synchros were bad and had to rebuild the tranny... well till i upgraded.
Kevin

 

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DJ MIKE A

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Jan 12, 2007

#9

• Jan 12, 2007

• #9

Sicarius428 said:

Had the same problem and the firewall adjuster, cable and quadrant didn't help for me. My synchros were bad and had to rebuild the tranny... well till i upgraded.
Kevin

Click to expand...

Ya well I'm still having the probs and I guess it's my synchros. I installed the quadrant and it seemed to help a bit with putting the car in gear at a stop but slowly got worse again. It still grinds 1st to 2nd. We put it on the lift the other day and noticed my shift fork is really quite lose, like an inch of play up and down. Any got any thoughts on this?

 

dragnazz5.0

My "0" key d0esn't w0rk, s0 I have t0 use the zer0

Nov 19, 2005

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mooresville, nc

Jan 12, 2007

#10

• Jan 12, 2007

• #10

the up and down motion is just the fork pivoting on the pivot ball. it sounds more like your clutch than anything. as much as you dont want to hear it, pull the trans and take a look at the clutch. i can almost gaurantee its the clutch.

 

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DJ MIKE A

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Nov 13, 2006

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Jan 12, 2007

#11

• Jan 12, 2007

• #11

Well next Saturday we're gonna drop the tranny, so I will find out if it's the clutch or not, I guess I will buy a new clutch just in case it is in fact the clutch. Could it be the pressure plate becuase if so I will pick up one of those as well.

And if I do drop it and the clutch is fine what's my next step? A new tranny? A rebuild kit?

 

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Peties3

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Jan 12, 2007

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Jan 12, 2007

#12

• Jan 12, 2007

• #12

+ 1 on the clutch!!!

 

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Sicarius428

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Jan 6, 2004

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Jan 12, 2007

#13

• Jan 12, 2007

• #13

For me it was the tranny. After I rebuilt the T5... rest its soul... it shifted just fine. The clutch, pressure plate and TOB had about 1k miles on it so I didn't feel the need to change those. My clutch fork was the same too. When I changed to the TKO and closely took a look at the old one, it looked just fine but I bought a stronger one anyways.
Where you go from here really depends on your budget. Rebuilding if you buy a press, punches and what not will cost you about 300ish. You can chance a used tranny which prices are subjective. Gforce upgrade will run you closer to 1500 depending on upgrades and a TKO 500/600 will run you about 2500 to your door with all the supporting equipment to change over.
Kevin

 

dragnazz5.0

My "0" key d0esn't w0rk, s0 I have t0 use the zer0

Nov 19, 2005

815

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mooresville, nc

Jan 12, 2007

#14

• Jan 12, 2007

• #14

yes, more than likely its the pressure plate not releasing the clutch disk or the clutch is stuck to the flywheel. either way the trans should come out to figure out whats wrong with it.

 

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DJ MIKE A

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Nov 13, 2006

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Jan 13, 2007

#15

• Jan 13, 2007

• #15

Well I have someone who will rebuild it for me, he has done it before. Guess iI will see what ahappens when I get it in tyhe air and drop the tranny.