Thanks guys, but I want to retain the stock look of the notchback and that includes the OEM style hood.Here is a steel 2" cowl:
Mustang 2" Steel Cowl Hood (87-93) - LMR.com
Improve the look and engine bay clearance on your Fox with this 1987-1993 Mustang 2" steel cowl hood!lmr.com
Thanks guys, but I want to retain the stock look of the notchback and that includes the OEM style hood.
It sounds like you have figured out exactly what you need to do for it to clear under the stock hood, which is good work. I like the stock hood profile myself, so I understand that take. Shimming the K member for hood clearance seems like a big hoop to jump through, one of those "the juice isn't worth the squeeze" situations. But if you have to have it, go for it, we've all been there with something.Worked on getting the troublesome Box R upper to fit under my stock height fiberglass hood (sans cross bracing). I was able to remove the adjustable fuel pressure regulator to get the Box R to sit flat on the lower intake, but the hood won't close with the 1" aluminum Trick Flow mating plate. I utilized a 3/8" spacer which is the thinest that will work with the stock fuel line connectors which otherwise will rub the belly of the Box R. So I'll need to have the 1" aluminum plate milled down to 3/8", or even better 1/4", but also add 1/2" spacers between the frame and k member when I install a tubular k member which will create problems of its own. Maximum Motorsports references these here:
Some considerations when installing spacers between the k-member and the chassis:
• Ground clearance may be reduced.
• The position of caster/camber plate strut shaft spacers may need changing to maintain the strut's proper compression travel and droop travel.
• Transmission mount may need modification to maintain proper driveline angles.
• Pinion angle may need to be adjusted to maintain proper driveline angles.
• Steering shaft will need to be extended slightly (easily accommodated by an MM telescoping steering shaft).
• Front suspension geometry may be altered, with possible consequences to the car's handling.
• A front-end alignment will be necessary.
All of this work is for what, 10-15 more horsepower in the high rpm range? I'm struggling with if it's even worth it.
Thanks. Yes, shimming the k member is a must if I want to attempt (key word here *attempt*) to make the Box R work with a stock style hood. And I may find a number of other issues as a result of the 1/2" shim. That intake will cause a slight loss in low end torque. The great mystery is how much horsepower I'll gain from the Box R. If it's 12 horsepower, going from 401 RWH in my current setup to 413, I'd argue all the additional work and cost isn't worth it. Lots to think about and I appreciate all of the responses.It sounds like you have figured out exactly what you need to do for it to clear under the stock hood, which is good work. I like the stock hood profile myself, so I understand that take. Shimming the K member for hood clearance seems like a big hoop to jump through, one of those "the juice isn't worth the squeeze" situations. But if you have to have it, go for it, we've all been there with something.
I'm not super familiar with that intake. I'm assuming its a trade off so to speak. Less low end torque traded for high RPM HP? I think I'd be able to walk myself off that just by telling myself I'd rather have the low RPM benefits for the street.
I thought your old intake looked great BTW.
The Box R upper has no attachment points (holes) in it and requires the 1" aluminum spacer be bolted into it. The spacer has the attachment points. The spacer obviously raises the upper up from the lower clearing the FPR and passenger side fuel coupler. I'd have to mill the spacer down to 3/8" or 1/4" or go whole hog and buy aftermarket fuel lines and an adjustable fpr, but the hood would still hit the front of the Box R.Did the OEM FPR not fit in there without the spacer or was there something else that made the spacer necessary?
It comes down to the question, "Is it worth it?" Is 10-15 additional hp above 4500 RPM worth it from the installation of the Box R.
I was leaning toward waiting to make a decision on this, but if I pivot to my next mod (MM K member and adjustable front suspension) I'll obviously need to do the spacers at that time.You are not going to notice going from 401 rwhp to 413 rwhp on the street especially for the time and money you are going to spend to get it. I mean a CAI or some other bolt on to get 15 hp is low hanging fruit. This whole intake thing is something I would just walk away from or in my case buy a hood but I like a small cowl. It really sucks that this is not just a direct swap but its not like you are at 225 hp any more either.
My Ford Racing Z2363 has the 7 quart oil pan. When first installed, my mechanic put 10 quarts in it as the oil dip stick from Ford was not cut to the right length for the Z2363 engine oil pan. That was a headache trying to figure out why oil was gushing out of the engine at high rpm.I get ya. I had some similar issues trying to shoehorn the Kenne Bell under the stock hood.
I ended up going with a 2.5" Cervinis. I didn't have a ton of options since I'd just put a brand new Long block with a 7qt oil pan in.
Watching to see what you come up with.
I drained mine and noticed it was much more than the oil pan quantity. Added 7 quarters, cut the dip stick stalk to length and then called Ford Racing to inform them. Another reason why my daily is a Honda.I marked mine for 6 quarts and keep that as my [full] line.
Ugh. New fuel lines, adjustable FPR, new distributor, and all the corrections to the suspension and driveline based on adding 1/2" spacers between the frame and k member. Even with all that, the TPS, which is the highest point on the engine, may still not clear the hood.When you start to mill that spacer you have to watch the upper intake getting Into the distributor cap especially with that big ass stock distributor.
All this to me is not worth on your comvo going from a standard r upper. I doubt you’re going to notice any difference
TOOLOW, please tell me what distributor you went with for your Box-R install and what, if any, issues you had. Stab and plug? Or what?When you start to mill that spacer you have to watch the upper intake getting Into the distributor cap especially with that big ass stock distributor.
All this to me is not worth on your comvo going from a standard r upper. I doubt you’re going to notice any difference
I have a Holley dual sync distributor which will not work with your stock ecuTOOLOW, please tell me what distributor you went with for your Box-R install and what, if any, issues you had. Stab and plug? Or what?
I have the Holley Terminator X ecu. How much shorter is your distributor? I suspect I'd have to go your route distributor wise if I reduced my Box R's height by 1.25 inches.I have a Holley dual sync distributor which will not work with your stock ecu
I built a car for a friend of mine with a box r and stock distributor as well
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