trickflow trickery?

yeah. like i said don't waste your money like i did and bought the egr delete plate bc it doesn't allow the throttle to move without catching on the intake when you bolt it up. i'm thinking of getting the $20 plug and the metal delete plate that goes on the place of the egr

trick flow kit

i would invest in getting it tuned, you will notice a huge difference, trust me i did. check all the obvious things, plugs, wires, ground strap, fuel filter. what fuel pump do you have?? you will need 190 at least, sometimes the simple things can kill ya, are all your sensors good, tps and map sensors can wreak havoc on your car running right, a wiring problem can do the same. You spent the money on the kit, spend the money to tune it at a dyno place, or find a good local ford guy who has been working on stangs for years, that is your best avenue. it took me two years to find out i had an ignition problem, could have just had it looked at by an expert. hope you figure it out, let me know how the combo works.

motocrossed733 said:

anyone know what you are supposed to do with the tad and tab setups when the smog pump is removed?

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to be honest i don't even know what they are. i did a search and they do have to do with the smog stuff, but at this point i don't think i've done anything to them, WHere are they located?

motocrossed733 said:

anyone know what you are supposed to do with the tad and tab setups when the smog pump is removed?

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TAB & TAD solenoid valve eliminators – eliminate codes 81 & 82.
You will still get 44 & 94 codes because the computer looks for a change in the amount of oxygen by checking the O2 sensors when the solenoids are actuated. Actuating the solenoids provides more oxygen in the exhaust, changing the O2 sensor output. No change and you get the 44 & 94 codes.

Don’t do this if you have a catalytic converter H pipe. The catalytic converters must have the air from the smog pump or they will clog up and choke.

See US - Electronic Components Distributor | Newark.com for the resistors to replace the TAB & TAD solenoids

OHMITE|43F82RE|Wirewound Resistor | Newark.com
If the link fails do a search using the part number
82 ohm, 3 watt wirewound resistor, 94 cents each.
Newark P/N 64K8974
Ohmite part # 43F82RE.
Or use the following part number if the first part number isn't available:
OHMITE|23J82RE|Wirewound Resistor - Vitreous | Newark.com
Newark P/N 64K8241
Ohmite part #23J82RE

Pay a visit to your local Radio Shack to get some heat shrink and some crimp on tap terminals. They do not stock the resistors. Or you can use the Ford connector pin kit from AutoZone.


18 gauge crimp on taps Catalog #: 64-3053

Put the resistor inside the heat shrink tubing and crimp the connectors on. I would choose the Ford pin connectors since they should plug in the TAB & TAD wiring. That way you haven't modified the wiring so it is easy to re-install the TAB & TAD solenoids if emissions testing comes to your area.


Two flat pin connectors.
One 82 ohm, 3 watt resistor.
One piece 3/8" heat sink tubing 2" long.
Two pieces 3/16" heat shrink tubing 1 1/2" long.
Solder the pins onto the resistor leads using electrical solder.
Slide the 3/8" heat shrink tubing over the resistor.
Slide the two pieces of 3/16" heat shrink tubing over the two wires, leaving the flat part of the pins uncovered.


It helps to have the resistor leads straight and not bent as shown in the first picture when you apply heat to the heat shrink tubing. That way, the tubing shrinks more evenly.
Finally, apply heat to shrink all the tubing uniformly.



Bend the leads to fit the spacing on the female TAB & TAD connector sockets.



Push the connector pins of the completed resistor assembly into the empty female TAD or TAD connector sockets on the wiring harness. The resistor assemblies replace the missing solenoids: one resistor assembly per solenoid socket.

Do not crimp on the pins and wrap the mess with electrical tape and say you got the idea from me. If you do, and I hear of it, I will say unkind things about your intelligence and family heritage. Do Quality Work!

This information is for informational purposes only and is intended for use only on off road vehicles. It should not be used on any vehicle operated on public roads.

Operating a vehicle modified in such a manner on public roads is a violation of the EPA codes regarding modification of emission controlled vehicles.

What codes are you getting motocrossed?

motocrossed733 said:

I will asap thanksd again jrichker, would having either tad or tab incorrectly hooked up have an adverse effect on driveability?

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I have not seen the TAB or TAD solenoilds cause driveablity problems. The only thing I would be concerned about would be if the red wires that feed power to them are bare and touching metal. The resulting short circuit could shut the engine off for a second or blow the ECC fuse link.

motocrossed733 said:

I finally got her about 98% its too embarrassing to say what the main prob was, okay it was a bad connection in my maf harness, as soon as I found it started purring, only bad connection sometimes it really threw me, now runs out really good engine is smooth no shaking, I only now wonder about the way it drives in first gear I have 3:55 gears and with the tfs kit it does not seem to want to go slow, like when I am in a parking lot trying not to slip the clutch it jerks and bucks

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These are characteristics of most aftermarket cams.

Maf? so that was it huh? a bad connection? how so?

and yeah mine bucks all the time in first. i thought it was clutch chatter, bc i know my clutch is on its last leg.

hey motocrossed, any chance you can take some pictures of your vacuum line stuff and post them. I'm having the EXACT same problem that you were having... I'm starting to run out of ideas with this!