Tried and proven 351W stroker?

JJFIVEOH · Jan 10, 2006

Hey all, I need some opinions. I am looking to build a LARGE 351W stroker motor for bracket racing. It will be in a 3,500 pound 1993 LX Hatch with a C6 tranny. I want to build a flat-top piston motor that will last a couple of seasons (600-700 runs) without any work. My current combo has my car ready for low 10's and that is what I am aiming for. The car can handle the power, it is just a matter of getting it. The car has helped me win a track championship and a runner-up in the last 2 years with a 13 year old original stocker motor and still doing quite well. But, I have built the car up over the years to handle some major HP and want to take a year building a nice 410-430 CI stroker. I am looking for some input from others that have used a nice stroker kit as far as crank, rods, pistons, etc. that have done you well. Recomendations as far as everything internal would be appreciated. I am very experienced in motors, but I am looking for advice from others that have used large CI NATURALLY ASPIRATED (by the way) motors before I hit the market and spend a year doing it right. Thanks in advance to all!

ExplodingGopher · Jan 10, 2006

Track only car? or occasional weekender?

If track only, and if you are open to suggestions, i recommend a big block for bracket racing (im biased ). Now i haven't run my setup at the track eyt, but its one helluva weekend car.

bluevenom867 · Jan 10, 2006

Bracket racing?

You need to get some wieght out of that thing.

If you cant get the wieght below 3200,then you really should look at a big block (514/545/ect.).Also,WHY a C6?

Powerglide......or a C4 (if you race both 1/8 and 1/4 mile)

But for a small block,this is what I would suggest.

427 (4.125 - bore must use a DART or similar block),high compression pistons (around 14:1 would be great),some large heads (ported Edelbrock Victor Gliddens or some thing like a Yates head with some work),fair size solid roller (you will want to shift around 8000-8500rpm),and this is my opinion as I might do one later,but a sheet metal tunnel ram with two 4150 style carbs.Or,if rules allow it check out this:

http://www.killerrons.com/toilets.cfm

^ Thous set-ups run very consistan even when the weather (temp,humidity,ect.) changes a bit.

304billet · Jan 10, 2006

Scat 4340 forged steel profiled crank, Scat 4340 forged steel H-beam rods w/ ARP 2000 rod bolt upgrade, Ross, CP or Probe flat top 13 to 16:1 forged pistons, neutral balanced, rotating assembly good to 1000hp.

Have a friend who is a 65 year old engine builder who just refreshed and took a 69 early model 351W block to a 418ci. It was a 408 stroker w/ 15lbs of boost putting down 650rwhp. The 418 is going nitrous and he says that block will hold 1000fwhp.

More than 1000fwhp go to a Dart block, Scat billet crank and Oliver billet rods.

u can also go to bennettracing.com and see their 351W stroker combos and what they put out.

bluevenom867 · Jan 10, 2006

304billet said:
Scat 4340 forged steel profiled crank, Scat 4340 forged steel H-beam rods w/ ARP 2000 rod bolt upgrade, Ross, CP or Probe flat top 13 to 16:1 forged pistons, neutral balanced, rotating assembly good to 1000hp.

Have a friend who is a 65 year old engine builder who just refreshed and took a 69 early model 351W block to a 418ci. It was a 408 stroker w/ 15lbs of boost putting down 650rwhp. The 418 is going nitrous and he says that block will hold 1000fwhp.

More than 1000fwhp go to a Dart block, Scat billet crank and Oliver billet rods.

I wouldnt trust any stock block over 700hp.

And them 3" main dont really like high rpm,or maybe you like spending money machining crank journals and buying bearings?

Plus you cant do large bore set-up with a stock block (unless its a big block).

Also,for NA only,the H-Beams are to heavy,you need a billet I beam.Or better yet (if you will replace them every 100-150 runs) forged aluminum rods.

JJFIVEOH · Jan 11, 2006

I am looking to keep the original interior without stripping. Which is why I want to go with a large CI small block. The 5.0 Mustang was built with a small black and I want to keep it that way. I can run 13.7s right now with really good air and a C6 tranny. I went with the C6 for durability reasons and also temperature reasons. When that C6 gets warm, it stays warm. Consistency is the key and has been the key so far in my combination. A C4 can cool down if there is some down time between early rounds and that can change ET's. I maybe wrong, but I have had 7 years experience with this great tranny and I want to stick with it. My concerns right now is the short block itself and it's internals.

bluevenom867 · Jan 11, 2006

Alright,I see what your saying,but the thing is you use enough of a cooler and it shouldnt matter much because it will stay cooler during the run (tranny).

Ill PM you on my idea for the short block.

JJFIVEOH · Jan 13, 2006

For those that do say that a C6 robs you of HP, my ET's will say otherwise. My MPH with my T5 was only about 1.1-1.2 MPH higher than my C6. My 60 foot times were almost the same and my overall ET's were actually almost identical too. I guess it all depends on the convertor. I spent over $700 on a custom convertor. That is one main thing people overlook.

bluevenom867 · Jan 13, 2006

JJFIVEOH said:
For those that do say that a C6 robs you of HP, my ET's will say otherwise. My MPH with my T5 was only about 1.1-1.2 MPH higher than my C6. My 60 foot times were almost the same and my overall ET's were actually almost identical too. I guess it all depends on the convertor. I spent over $700 on a custom convertor. That is one main thing people overlook.

And the condition of the clutch your T5 had,but thats nothing to talk about now.If you like the C6,stick with it.

So what have you been thinking of motor wise?

JJFIVEOH · Jan 13, 2006

The condition was very good. Espoecially since my MPH's and ET's are based over time when my clutch and pressure plate were replaced. Since I run brackets, those didn't last long, but I do have time slips from them. I want a large cubic inch motor with flat top pistons that can get me into the low 10 second range. I really do not want to convert to a carb, I know for a fact that the stock EEC can be modified to run a large motor since it is not that detailed to begin with. I can maneuver my way around the comp after I get the motor put together, I just am looking for people that have made a large 351W stroker.

pb_paulie_b · Jan 13, 2006

Go with the 69' and a 383 stroker. It has the best rod ratio, likes to rev. and puts less stress on the block than a 408.

bluevenom867 · Jan 13, 2006

pb_paulie_b said:
Go with the 69' and a 383 stroker. It has the best rod ratio, likes to rev. and puts less stress on the block than a 408.

If you uses a DART block,less stress dont matter,go for power

In bracket raing you dont want ot have to worry about your internals going down the track.

Rick 91GT · Jan 14, 2006

My first question wouold be about your budget, that will tell me how wild you can go

JJFIVEOH · Jan 16, 2006

Rick 91GT said:
My first question wouold be about your budget, that will tell me how wild you can go

I can't really put a number on how much I want to spend. If I had to I'd sday 7,000-8,000. If it's more, so be it, I'll take all the time I need to get it right. I don't want it to be a wild motor, I just want low 10's out of a flat-top piston stroker motor. I want to get my ET from torque and not from 9,000 RPMs because it needs to last a few years without major maintenance. Also, it needs to be a NA motor. I am not a fan of Nitrous and blower motors just do not make good bracket motors.

JJFIVEOH · Jan 18, 2006

Did everybody give up on this post? Or does not anybody run a stroked 351W?

Rick 91GT · Jan 19, 2006

DART based 9.5" deck, 2.75" main
408ci or larger motor 12:1+, gas ports, steel pins etc...
AFR205 or AFR225
Custom Solid Roller Cam
Shaft rockers
3/8" pushrods
Slight worked Super Victor Manifold
850cfm carb
plus a few details I'll keep to myself. I would shoot for7000rpms, and low 10's should not be an issue

Internals I build with SCAT and EAGLE, PROBE, JE, ROSS, CP, etc... really depends on the exact combo

JJFIVEOH · Jan 23, 2006

Thanks Rick, I really like that combo. I was thinking something similar except maybe for a little less compression. I was more concerned about who makes the best stroker cranks to match a Dart block. I was thinking about keeping it FI (maybe), any thoughts?

Tried and proven 351W stroker?

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