Trouble Codes
- Thread starter Guero
- Start date
SeventyMach1
Keep it lubed .... keep it straight .... and keep
Blackened302
Active Member
straight from OBGYN:
"Codes 122o,176c,177c, or 212: caused by a ****ty x-pipe installation. Please uninstall this part and immediately."
hehe, nah, sorry man, just messing with you.
what the hell kind of code reader are you using that gave you those small letters up at the top? maybe you should take it to advance/az and have them check them?
"Codes 122o,176c,177c, or 212: caused by a ****ty x-pipe installation. Please uninstall this part and immediately."
hehe, nah, sorry man, just messing with you.
what the hell kind of code reader are you using that gave you those small letters up at the top? maybe you should take it to advance/az and have them check them?
SeventyMach1
Keep it lubed .... keep it straight .... and keep
Aight Guero ... try this link .... http://www.muscularmustangs.com/test3.php
Looks like you may have left the o2's unplugged or something. Plus a couple of other things.
Looks like you may have left the o2's unplugged or something. Plus a couple of other things.
CManT1914
New Member
C is for continuous memory IIRC, and O is for the KOEO (key on engine off) I THINK! I know C is for continuos memory though. That's a code that's been there a few times. My code scanner also has those letters at the top to tell me what test it's currently running.
SeventyMach1
Keep it lubed .... keep it straight .... and keep
Your welcome man.
On the 212 .... your SPOUT connector is on the passenger side of the engine bay (by the strut tower). It has a plug in it (or should). You can test it with a multi meter .... just search for what the correct readings should be. Also, with the "ignition tach signal" thing .... I'm thinking it could be related to the wiring on the ignition coil .... but don't hold me to that. Someone else can chime in .... I can't really make out what this code means either.
What kind of code puller do you guys have anyway?
On the 212 .... your SPOUT connector is on the passenger side of the engine bay (by the strut tower). It has a plug in it (or should). You can test it with a multi meter .... just search for what the correct readings should be. Also, with the "ignition tach signal" thing .... I'm thinking it could be related to the wiring on the ignition coil .... but don't hold me to that. Someone else can chime in .... I can't really make out what this code means either.
What kind of code puller do you guys have anyway?
Blackened302
Active Member
hey justin, is that spout you're talking about the gray pill you remove when adjusting the timing? could he be getting the code for it if it, say, wasn't in right/at all?
CManT1914
New Member
Paul, that is indeed the spout. It's basically a switch, the signal goes from the dizzy to the computer, via that connection. The computer then adds certain amounts of timing depending on load, rpm, etc. etc.., then sends it back to the coil. If it wasn't in all the way, I think it would simply "not work", and the computer would have no control over the timing, so you'd be running "locked out" at 10* or whatever the dizzy is set to. Although Matthias said his spout went bad. 
SeventyMach1
Keep it lubed .... keep it straight .... and keep
Guero ... I wouldn't take it to a shop & pay out the *** for them to do something like this (unless your in an extreme hurry to get the car into DD mode).
Paul, yeah, the SPOUT plug is taken out when adjusting timing.
I did some researching on this (212). It is DEFINITELY one of two things. BTW, you're car must be running like **** with this code popping up. Here's the two .....
1.) The stator (a.k.a. the Hall Effect sensor). This is most likely the problem. These cars have a tendency to have this problem. They cost $16-24 at various auto parts stores. You will have to remove the distibutor to take the old one out & put the new one in. 9 out of 10 times with a code 212 this is it (at least that's about what my search revealed).
2.) Thick Film Ignition (TFI) Module. It may just be called an "ignition control module" on our cars, though. It is located under the air intake tube .... close to the strut tower. They cost around $40-45 at local parts stores.
I wish I could help you narrow the problem down to the EXACT one, though. If you give me some symptoms your car has .... I might can help you diagnose a step further. If it was me ... I would just replace both of them ... but I realize you may not want to do all that.
Paul, yeah, the SPOUT plug is taken out when adjusting timing.
I did some researching on this (212). It is DEFINITELY one of two things. BTW, you're car must be running like **** with this code popping up. Here's the two .....
1.) The stator (a.k.a. the Hall Effect sensor). This is most likely the problem. These cars have a tendency to have this problem. They cost $16-24 at various auto parts stores. You will have to remove the distibutor to take the old one out & put the new one in. 9 out of 10 times with a code 212 this is it (at least that's about what my search revealed).
2.) Thick Film Ignition (TFI) Module. It may just be called an "ignition control module" on our cars, though. It is located under the air intake tube .... close to the strut tower. They cost around $40-45 at local parts stores.
I wish I could help you narrow the problem down to the EXACT one, though. If you give me some symptoms your car has .... I might can help you diagnose a step further. If it was me ... I would just replace both of them ... but I realize you may not want to do all that.
CManT1914
New Member
Guero said:
If I understood your earlier post, you need the TPS (throttle position sensor)....... sensor. (throttle position sensor......... sensor, lol). That is really the only sensor on the throttle body, the other is the IAC (idle air control) valve, not so much as a sensor (although it does have a plug on it).
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