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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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Trying to get back in the saddle again. please help

  • Thread starter Thread starter raginbul469
  • Start date Start date Apr 16, 2010
R

raginbul469

Founding Member
Oct 23, 2001
160
0
0
michigan
Apr 16, 2010
#1
  • Apr 16, 2010
  • #1
So i have not been on the forums in years. My 95 GT took the back seat to paying off other bills and trying to be finacially responsible. i know i know. So anyways, i need to finish my project and i am honestly out of touch with what is availible today, good companies to go with and some of the issues i am having with my car.

Here is the break down of what i have done so far:
302 bored .30
reconditioned crank
forged pistons
B cam
balanced internals
GT40P heads with larger valves cut in (1.95/1.65 if i remember correctly
1.7 RR
Aeromotive FPR (that i think is bad because it will change FP on its own!!)
24# inj
255lph pump
PPI U/L intake
Foxbody 70MM TB
77mm MAF
underdrive pulleys
harmonic balancer
smog delete pulley
1 5/8" lontubes
MAC Pro-chamber
flowmater mufflers (really want to change those out too!!)
FMS HD Clutch
adjustable clutch quadrant
rebuilt T-5
B&M shifter
4.10 FMS gears
FMC C springs
new struts and shocks (cant remember the brand)
slotted rotors f/b
C green stuff pads f/b
subframe connectors ( weld in with the seat crossmembers)

There are a couple of issues. When the car is in closed loop it runs pretty awesome. once the computer takes it out of closed loop and the CEL comes on (for ERG) the car only runs good til about half throttle. After that it breaks up pretty bad and is no fun to drive. I always make sure that the TPS is set to .99-1v and that the MAF is clean. i even got another sensor to verify. i never got a code for either of those things but i just like to check things that i can verify.

I still have the stock ign setup with new plugs cap/rotor and wires. I would like to update the ign system but i am not sure what to go with anymore. I setup the motor for a power adder later so i am thinking the MSD 6D (i may be way off on that model), the digital box, and MSD distributor. Then i know i need a dyno tune. i really think the tune is the majority of the issue. Atleast it seems that way with the way the car runs in and out of closed loop.

Also something that i would like to update but is not priority ( gettin the motor to work properly is #1) is all the bushings for the suspension. They are all still stock. the car only has 75k on it but it has been kinda sitting for a while and i think it would help finish off what i have already done with the suspension. Maybe i am totally off my rocker too!

Hopefuly someone can chime in and set me straight. Any help/input is greatly appreciated. It is time to start work and the weather is breaking.

Also does anyone have a recomendation of a dyno tune shop in SE Michigan? I am in Oakland County.

One last question. I need to replace a axle bearing and i also want to repack the diff. I had the 4.10's put in so if i go to repack the diff will i have to relash the gears and everything or will that stay the same since the main thing is pinion depth right?

Thanks in advance everyone!! i really want to start turning wrenchs on the car and Stangnet has always been a place to get some good info from some great guys/girls.
 

DDSTANG94

New Member
Dec 9, 2006
465
2
0
FRASER, MICHIGAN
Apr 16, 2010
#2
  • Apr 16, 2010
  • #2
Lido at alternative auto. sounds like u could use a tune. Hes close to u http://www.alternativeauto.com/

raginbul469 said:
So i have not been on the forums in years. My 95 GT took the back seat to paying off other bills and trying to be finacially responsible. i know i know. So anyways, i need to finish my project and i am honestly out of touch with what is availible today, good companies to go with and some of the issues i am having with my car.

Here is the break down of what i have done so far:
302 bored .30
reconditioned crank
forged pistons
B cam
balanced internals
GT40P heads with larger valves cut in (1.95/1.65 if i remember correctly
1.7 RR
Aeromotive FPR (that i think is bad because it will change FP on its own!!)
24# inj
255lph pump
PPI U/L intake
Foxbody 70MM TB
77mm MAF
underdrive pulleys
harmonic balancer
smog delete pulley
1 5/8" lontubes
MAC Pro-chamber
flowmater mufflers (really want to change those out too!!)
FMS HD Clutch
adjustable clutch quadrant
rebuilt T-5
B&M shifter
4.10 FMS gears
FMC C springs
new struts and shocks (cant remember the brand)
slotted rotors f/b
C green stuff pads f/b
subframe connectors ( weld in with the seat crossmembers)

There are a couple of issues. When the car is in closed loop it runs pretty awesome. once the computer takes it out of closed loop and the CEL comes on (for ERG) the car only runs good til about half throttle. After that it breaks up pretty bad and is no fun to drive. I always make sure that the TPS is set to .99-1v and that the MAF is clean. i even got another sensor to verify. i never got a code for either of those things but i just like to check things that i can verify.

I still have the stock ign setup with new plugs cap/rotor and wires. I would like to update the ign system but i am not sure what to go with anymore. I setup the motor for a power adder later so i am thinking the MSD 6D (i may be way off on that model), the digital box, and MSD distributor. Then i know i need a dyno tune. i really think the tune is the majority of the issue. Atleast it seems that way with the way the car runs in and out of closed loop.

Also something that i would like to update but is not priority ( gettin the motor to work properly is #1) is all the bushings for the suspension. They are all still stock. the car only has 75k on it but it has been kinda sitting for a while and i think it would help finish off what i have already done with the suspension. Maybe i am totally off my rocker too!

Hopefuly someone can chime in and set me straight. Any help/input is greatly appreciated. It is time to start work and the weather is breaking.

Also does anyone have a recomendation of a dyno tune shop in SE Michigan? I am in Oakland County.

One last question. I need to replace a axle bearing and i also want to repack the diff. I had the 4.10's put in so if i go to repack the diff will i have to relash the gears and everything or will that stay the same since the main thing is pinion depth right?

Thanks in advance everyone!! i really want to start turning wrenchs on the car and Stangnet has always been a place to get some good info from some great guys/girls.
Click to expand...
 

COBRA90GT

Mustang Master
Sep 22, 2001
6,654
0
87
HOCKEYTOWN ® , MI
Apr 17, 2010
#3
  • Apr 17, 2010
  • #3
How far out will you be adding that "power adder?" If it's fairly close, time-wise, you may want to hold off on getting that dyno tune (or pay twice for dynotuning).

That's if you can manage to solve the drivability issues you have in the meantime I suppose...


Have you pulled any codes yet with the OBD I key on engine off (KOEO) test/procedure?
 
R

raginbul469

Founding Member
Oct 23, 2001
160
0
0
michigan
Apr 22, 2010
#4
  • Apr 22, 2010
  • #4
sorry for taking so long to reply. i was out of town.

The only error codes i get are for the EGR not being on the car anymore.

The power adder wont be for a couple years probably. i would like to get used to what i have before i build anymore on it. especially since i do not know if i want to go juice or TT. i like the turbo feeling on my SVO. plus its always there.

I knew Liddio (SP?) from Alt was the man on modular motors. Atleast that is what my old friends that used him have told me. I should prolly check into him. i didn't even think of them.
 
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