Turbo swap HELP

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nicklats

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Nov 6, 2005

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Mar 18, 2006

#1

• Mar 18, 2006

• #1

This is the second time that i have done stingers turbo swap and i still have a weak injector pulse. Can someone tell me what wires i need to connect in the removeable part of the harness. I have spark but a weak injector pulse.

 

N

nicklats

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Mar 19, 2006

#2

• Mar 19, 2006

• #2

I put the 88 turbo coupe throttle body on my car would that cause a weak pulse, or what other sensors would cause a weak spark. The computer and VAM were tested in another car so i know they work.

 

65ShelbyClone

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Sep 9, 2000

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Antelope Valley, SoCal

Mar 19, 2006

#3

• Mar 19, 2006

• #3

Have you checked your grounds for both the computer and injector harness? The computer fires the injectors by grounding them, so a bad connection could be causing the problem. Also pull codes and see if the ECU is having a fit about something.

 

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nicklats

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Mar 19, 2006

#4

• Mar 19, 2006

• #4

How do you ground the injector harness? In stingers swap info there was no instrustion to do so. I grounded pin 49 and the ignition ground (for the distributor) right to the battery. The connections for the case ground and the two main ground wires for the computer were cleaned and checked. The ground strap for the motor is on the firewall and on the lower intake.

When i unplug all the injectors and plug in the noid light the light is much brighter than when i have one or more injectors plugged in.

Thanks for you help!

 

KenneBell

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Apr 14, 2005

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San Jose California

Mar 20, 2006

#5

• Mar 20, 2006

• #5

I worked on my turbo swap into a 92 stang for 8 months then gave up and spent $500 for a painless wiring harness for the 2.3T made by Joe. I chased wiring problems and eventually gave up, retrofitting the stang harness just didn't work for me so when I hooked up joes harness the car started right up and ran perfect. If you are fed up with the wiring just bite the bullet and buy his harness. Joe's email is gio_momma@yahoo.com

 

65ShelbyClone

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Sep 9, 2000

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Antelope Valley, SoCal

Mar 20, 2006

#6

• Mar 20, 2006

• #6

I don't know how to ground the injector harness or if its even necessary. What I meant is just make sure the contacts are good. It sounds like you already did that.

This got me thinking.....check the injector harness for continuity with a multimeter, preferably digital. Hopefully you can check each injector circuit as a whole(between the ECU pins and injectors) with an extension wire or something. Ideally you shouldn't get any resistance.

 

N

nicklats

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Nov 6, 2005

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Mar 20, 2006

#7

• Mar 20, 2006

• #7

I checked each injector plug and the resistance is very low. The circuit cant take the load of one or more than one injector thats when the pulse is extremely weak to no pulse. I keep thinking its a ground problem. What about the main negative battery cable that runs to the bottom of the motor? could that be causing this?

 

65ShelbyClone

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Antelope Valley, SoCal

Mar 20, 2006

#8

• Mar 20, 2006

• #8

I think that if that was the problem, you'd be getting lots of other problems too. It's a good idea to clean it anyway. I couldn't tell on my car, but if the cable connects to iron, definitely clean it anyway. If you have some, little dielectric grease might keep corrosion away longer, too.

In my second post I said that the computer grounds the injectors to make them fire. It's the other way around; the injectors are grounded and the ECU applies positive voltage to them. I guess that implies that the computer power leads need to be checked too.

If the problem isn't in any of the wiring or sensors, the only other thing that comes to mind is a failing injector driver in the ECU.

 

N

nicklats

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Mar 20, 2006

#9

• Mar 20, 2006

• #9

I checked the computer (by putting it in another car it ran fine)
I check the Vain Air meter
I changed the Baro sensor
I changed the TFI
I changed the Distributor
I changed the Module on the strut tower
The only other sensors i need to change are: Air Bypass, TPS, Air Charge Temp, and coolant temp. Thats all that I have left .
Hopefully one of those sensors is bad!!

Thanks for your help!

 

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nicklats

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Mar 21, 2006

#10

• Mar 21, 2006

• #10

I just realized that I did not put the capacitor on the red/light grn wire, could this may be my problem?

 

65ShelbyClone

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Mar 21, 2006

#11

• Mar 21, 2006

• #11

Huh?

 

Stinger

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Jul 7, 2001

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Basehor (Kansas City), KS

Mar 22, 2006

#12

• Mar 22, 2006

• #12

It's obvious that you are not doing something right in the wiring changes. Especially since you've had this same problem twice (meaning you've failed to do something with the wiring twice). You need to go through the wiring again one by one and verify that each one is correct. If you have any questionable wiring questions, meaning something that you aren't sure you are understanding or doing correctly, ask.

 

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nicklats

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Mar 22, 2006

#13

• Mar 22, 2006

• #13

Stinger said:

It's obvious that you are not doing something right in the wiring changes. Especially since you've had this same problem twice (meaning you've failed to do something with the wiring twice). You need to go through the wiring again one by one and verify that each one is correct. If you have any questionable wiring questions, meaning something that you aren't sure you are understanding or doing correctly, ask.

Click to expand...

I had 2 different people help me with the swap on both occations. Can you send me a picture of you removable harness, or a more detailed description of what you did to the top harness. I think that the problem is in that top harness because I have read and re-read the instruction and so has my dad who is an engineer. The only changes that I made to that part of the harness was I repined the grey connector and i tied the 3 red/ light green wires that go to the coil packs together, and i ran a ground wire from the orange/ red wire to the battery, the rest of the plugs are untouched. (for the top part of the harness).

 

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nicklats

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Mar 24, 2006

#14

• Mar 24, 2006

• #14

Anyone have a description or picture of what they did to their top removeable harness for the swap?

 

Stinger

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Basehor (Kansas City), KS

Mar 24, 2006

#15

• Mar 24, 2006

• #15

I've since sold the car I did the swap in so I can no longer take pics of the harness. I know Dr. Elusive took some decent pics of his harness though...

 

N

nicklats

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Apr 4, 2006

#16

• Apr 4, 2006

• #16

if the dizzy is 180 out would it cause the injector pulse to be weak, what about a "weak" coil (if there is such a thing). Bad Injector,(even though I measured the Resistance in each and they would ok).

I rechecked my engine to firewall ground strap and it was loose, I tightened it up and still the same thing. I have it attached to my lower intake bolt and then to the little green bolt on the firewall righ tnear the speedo cable. Should I get new ground straps for the car??

I changed the TPS and IAB, Coolant Temp Sensor, I put the radio noise capacitor on the red/light green wire.

Bare with me guys I know I might have repeated myself in some of these posts but I just want to get it running. Its going on 8 months that I havent drove it.
I would take it to a shop but I know they will charge me out the A** and may not even find the problem.

 

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nicklats

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Apr 4, 2006

#17

• Apr 4, 2006

• #17

KenneBell said:

I worked on my turbo swap into a 92 stang for 8 months then gave up and spent $500 for a painless wiring harness for the 2.3T made by Joe. I chased wiring problems and eventually gave up, retrofitting the stang harness just didn't work for me so when I hooked up joes harness the car started right up and ran perfect. If you are fed up with the wiring just bite the bullet and buy his harness. Joe's email is gio_momma@yahoo.com

Click to expand...

I would buy his harness but I have the feeling its not the harness and if I buy it and I still have the same problem then im really screwed.

 

Stinger

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Basehor (Kansas City), KS

Apr 4, 2006

#18

• Apr 4, 2006

• #18

If the engine/computer worked before, it's the harness...bottom line.

I still say the problem is in the signal return (red/green) wires in the harness...they need to ALL be connected to each other.

 

N

nicklats

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Apr 4, 2006

#19

• Apr 4, 2006

• #19

For the red/grn wire i re-pined it in the grey distributor harness and then i have a wire 4 inches from the connector, spliced and ran to the coil pack(the red/grn wire is on the left side of the connector at the coil pack) On the removeable harness i cut the 3 red/grn wires that went to the 2 coil pack plugs and spliced them together. i have 12 volts at the red/ green wire. Before when I was not getting any spark I didnt have the red/grn wires spliced together.

Does that sound right Stinger?

 

Stinger

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Basehor (Kansas City), KS

Apr 4, 2006

#20

• Apr 4, 2006

• #20

What voltage do you have on the two wires to each injector?