Yep on the 500rwhp +, one day I will prolly end up going spyder intake, port my heads or go even larger and pop in some heavier gears and go over 500rwhp I am sure, lol.
Yep on the 500rwhp +, one day I will prolly end up going spyder intake, port my heads or go even larger and pop in some heavier gears and go over 500rwhp I am sure, lol.
Well of course its doable, I'm just saying its not a given just cause you do a 400+ cube build you make that power. Most of these combos end up in the 400s given by what people on here are making. Not to mention doing a big cube 500+ motor is nothing close to cheap.
If rio sells his turbo stuff he doesnt want to spend a ton more to build the motor. So the idea of doing a rad 400+ cuber isn't really an option.
I think this thread has gotten a little off track. I regret ever mentioning the blown headgasket. The only reason it blew is because it was run out of gas at WOT. It had nothing to do with me being greedy about boost or anything like that. My car was tuned for the psi I have run and I have been doing it since day one of having a turbo.
So thanks to the few people that have given opinions on the topic in the title of the thread. No one has suggested any specific setups and associated cost which is what I was hoping to get some ideas on. The idea for going to a 331/347 like I mentioned would be to ditch a lot of weight, have my car be more reliable, and build the motor for about what I could sell my turbo setup for.
I doubt I'll be switching my setup, but I have considered it hence this thread.
I think this thread has gotten a little off track. I regret ever mentioning the blown headgasket. The only reason it blew is because it was run out of gas at WOT. It had nothing to do with me being greedy about boost or anything like that. My car was tuned for the psi I have run and I have been doing it since day one of having a turbo.
So thanks to the few people that have given opinions on the topic in the title of the thread. No one has suggested any specific setups and associated cost which is what I was hoping to get some ideas on. The idea for going to a 331/347 like I mentioned would be to ditch a lot of weight, have my car be more reliable, and build the motor for about what I could sell my turbo setup for.
I doubt I'll be switching my setup, but I have considered it hence this thread.
How were you tuning your car? What was wrong with the idle/part throttle tune? (guessing that was part of the reliability stuff)
Is your hotside ceramic coated?
Is putting in a tubular k-member out of the question?
What i fear for you is to leave the turbo stuff alone...switch to a n/a setup and have a whole new world of problems to fix. N/A doesnt equal no reliability/tune/setup issues. In the end getting a perfect running n/a setup will be more expensive i bet.
If changing plugs on a regular is that important, i say get a tubular k-member. Get your hot side coated if its not done already. Get the car to someone who can fix the tune. And enjoy the car.
Guys, I'll say it again. My car is fine. I'm not terribly unhappy with it. It runs pretty well, especially if you're used to it and I didn't have any significant problems this entire past season. I beat the crap out of it any chance I get and it holds up just fine. Sure there are little things here and there that I have grown to live with, but thats part of having a modified car. I'm not expecting to switch setups and not have anything to worry about, but maintaing a turbo car in my opinion is more work than a decent NA setup With so many more components, there are more things that can go wrong, it's that simple.
As for tuning, my car was tuned at Livernois with a SCT chip. It ran better when I first got it tuned, cause over time it has gotten a little tempermental like when you crank the wheel while not move, it usually wants to die and sometimes I'll have to feather the throttle the keep it going. For the most part it is only when the wheel is cranked putting aditional load on the motor. Other than that it drives just fine and pulls smooth. I also think I could benefit by getting a bit more power out of it. I have a very conservative tune, which is how I get away with 15+ psi at all times, but I know I could have a slightly more aggressive tune and probably make the same power at like 12 psi. So it's kind of relative I guess.
I'm not expecting to switch setups and not have anything to worry about, but maintaing a turbo car in my opinion is more work than a decent NA setup With so many more components, there are more things that can go wrong, it's that simple.
This is the part I don’t get. What exactly are the extras you need maintaining on? You change the oil at the same intervals, as do you the sparkplugs. There should be no extra maintenance required with a proper turbo setup.
Also, IMHO…..if the car stalls when turning the steering wheel (even occasionally), your tune is off. That should not happen…especially after paying for a “professional” dyno tune.
I don’t have any qualms with a nice, clean rev’ing N/A setup with more cubes (quite the contrary). Regardless of which route you take….power is power….and you will still have to deal with the inadequacies of the chassis, suspension, drive-train etc. regardless of route you take.
Also, IMHO…..if the car stalls when turning the steering wheel (even occasionally), your tune is off. That should not happen…especially after paying for a “professional” dyno tune.
Yeah....I've heard quite a few bad things about tuning through Livernois in the past, specifically....not doing a full blown tune and skipping only to WOT.