Tweecer Fan Settings

Final, i read what you posted. But I want to know why you set them on those degrees. I dont get why theirs 2 on's for the high and low speed
 
what average temp. will the car run at with these settings?

It's hard to say how your car will be with how hot/humid the weather gets here.

In traffic sitting dead on the Interstate w/ 100deg my car runs about 188-190.

At the dragstrip hotlapping, it goes anywhere from 190-200 tops.

This is going off the ECT sensor's reading in my datalogs.

But 200 is about the hottest I've seen it get -- or to be more precise "RM" on the gauge. :rlaugh:

Oh yeah, I run around a 70/30-60/40 water/coolant mix in the summer.

Wes

EDIT: Last thing, I have an automatic with 3000 stall. Using the stock cooler in the radiator and then running to a large B&M stacked plate cooler sitting in front and to the left of the radiator. Not sure how that plays into heating/cooling - I didn't notice a difference in engine coolant temps when it went on, but wanted to give you every possible idea of what my setup consists of.
 
Final, i read what you posted. But I want to know why you set them on those degrees. I dont get why theirs 2 on's for the high and low speed

I did that so long ago :scratch:
I guess I really don't remember my reasoning for picking those values :shrug:
other than
I wanted to lower the temps somewhat :)

I guess you could ask Wes the same about how he arrived at his values :D

I really don't know why there are two values for the high speed on

Grady
 
I don't know what the purpose of the two settings are either.

As for my fan values, I was shooting for the car to run in the 190s - those settings got me there. Feel free to change them up, just add or subtract the same amount from each of the values to keep them spaced apart correctly.

Everyone's setup is a bit different. I have read several places that the 302s run most efficiently around 200 degrees. Engine wear supposedly increases a good deal when you run colder. I wish I could remember now at least one source to back this up - if I do, I'll be sure to post it - maybe someone else can confirm or deny.

Wes
 
^^^cool! by your calculations, that means my stang is running at the desired 180*ish!

now if i could only keep it from overheating whenever i get on it.. hopefully the new mishimoto radiator will cure that.
 
I have read several places that the 302s run most efficiently around 200 degrees. Engine wear supposedly increases a good deal when you run colder. I wish I could remember now at least one source to back this up - if I do, I'll be sure to post it - maybe someone else can confirm or deny.

Wes

Yes i Also remember that, if i recall correctly it was more for those who use 160F Thermostats

If I recall correctly the green zone of wear & effic. was between 190 - 210 more or less than that would cause a wear + 30-40%
 
Yes i Also remember that, if i recall correctly it was more for those who use 160F Thermostats

If I recall correctly the green zone of wear & effic. was between 190 - 210 more or less than that would cause a wear + 30-40%

Bingo!


Here's a decent graph...
(but I their "Ideal" temps up about 10F higher that what is shown here... just my preference...)
BoreWearvsTemp.gif
 
Can anyone else look at their ECT vs stock temperate gauge and see what they are reading at 180 and 190 deg.

We always talk about how inaccurate the stock gauges are but I wonder if the differences everyone sees are mainly due to differences in cooling setups/fluid ratios.

Or the gauges could truly be inaccurate. :)

Wes
 
Excelent find , i remember that graph a loong time ago nice finding! :nice:


Can anyone else look at their ECT vs stock temperate gauge and see what they are reading at 180 and 190 deg.

We always talk about how inaccurate the stock gauges are but I wonder if the differences everyone sees are mainly due to differences in cooling setups/fluid ratios.

Or the gauges could truly be inaccurate. :)

Wes


By doing some research i came up with something like this according to Calcon Display

. . ...|.....N.....O.......R......M....... A.....L...|....
160..|.180.|.190..|.200.|..210.|.220.|.???..|

I think even less was the temp. i will doit again, but as far a i remember the "A - L" was not "that" hot at all , but i have never seen higher temps

One thing also , the Gauge Sensor is completely independent of the EEC ECT sensor, and they are located on diferent places on the intake so the Gauge temp was pretty much high but the eec ect was not "that" hot.

With that in mind i dont know who is more trusty but my shot would be the EEC ECT , maybe a intake - pump - rad - diagram would lead us to know the one is more acurate to the real engine watter temp.

Edit : If i remember correctly the EEC ect is the one located near the thermostat (on the heater pipe intersection ) and reads the watter exit temp of both banks (goes directly to the RAD ), where the gauge temp sensor is the one that only reads 5-8 bank watter temp.