U-Joints

The Green GT · May 16, 2007

I think I have a bad u-joint. All I need to do it check for slack right?

And are there some upgraded ones I can put in when i change them?

Rjovi · May 16, 2007

joints

Not really, if one or more of the caps are rusted inside it will be seized.....so no slop at all. It is best to take it out and make sure they both move in both directions. The joints you have are the best you can get, they are made by dana/spicer and are solid non-greasable. I own a driveline shop so I see all brands of joints, spicer still makes the best hands down. That's why when you buy an American car you usually never have to change joints till around 150,000 miles unless a cap prematurely failes. After you change it you are changing every 10,000 if you put in a greasable.

Please take my advise, do not put in greasable U joints, they are weaker(since the are hollow) and the seals suck (the grease has to be able to escape when over greased). If you have any questons you can call me, I will be happy to help

Drive Line Service of Boulder
303 447-1641
Ron

The Green GT · May 16, 2007

Ok so I guess Im going non greasable. Thanks

As far as play, how much should the DS move between the ring and pinion when the car is in neutral?

True 5.0 · May 16, 2007

For the $40 it'll cost you to put in a good set of U-joints, don't waste your time taking the old ones out and putting them back in. Just replace them.

The Green GT · May 16, 2007

True 5.0 said:
For the $40 it'll cost you to put in a good set of U-joints, don't waste your time taking the old ones out and putting them back in. Just replace them.

If I do take them out, I will replace them, Im just trying to make sure that it it them.

The Green GT · May 16, 2007

Also all four of my DS bolts were loose.

Im assuming that was the problem. I could actually take them out with my hand.

And I put those damn things on with an impact.

HISSIN50 · May 16, 2007

The DS to companion flange bolts have threadlock from the factory and a torque spec of almost 100 ft-lbs IIRC. DEFINITELY thead lock them in.

Ron, outstanding advice. You hit the nail on the head about the rust inside. The first U-joint I ever lost as a very young man was in this capacity. No slop but I'd get a chirp from the joint. That was it.

I didnt realize there was such a big difference in greaseable vs non-greaseable joints myself. I will use only non-greaseable after your advice.

One quick question Ron: if a guy is stuck doing greaseable joints, you want to have the zerk fitting in one orientation, don't ya? It has something to do with the direction of loading or something to that effect IIRC. Does that ring a bell? It's something I thought I once knew but cannot remember anymore.

The Green GT · May 16, 2007

Yea Im gonna need to get on a lift or something and go get some loc tite.

True 5.0 · May 16, 2007

HISSIN50 said:
if a guy is stuck doing greaseable joints, you want to have the zerk fitting in one orientation, don't ya? It has something to do with the direction of loading or something to that effect IIRC. Does that ring a bell? It's something I thought I once knew but cannot remember anymore.

Yes. you will want to orient the zerk so that as the DS turns, it gets compressed between the shaft & differential yokes.

Bosko5.0 · May 16, 2007

didn;t someone do a gear change recently

Rjovi · May 17, 2007

True 5.0 said:
Yes. you will want to orient the zerk so that as the DS turns, it gets compressed between the shaft & differential yokes.

Bingo, when a joint breaks it usually breaks where it is tapped for the zerk, a driveshaft turns counter clockwise(if you are facing forward, behind the car) so jsu picture the tranny yoke turning and the shaft staying put and put the joint on the compression side...the back will be a qurter turn on the other side.

HISSIN50 · May 17, 2007

I think I got it. Thanks True 5.0 and Ron.

U-Joints

The Green GT

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Rjovi

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The Green GT

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