UGHHHH!!! WTF is wrong with my car???

[tbi92rs]

OK, first off, back in ausgust, my tired motor died at the track. so I got together a ubnch of parts to make the car badder than ever. Heres the list.

Forged 302 block w/15k miles
Lunati .500/.510 218/226 duration cam

these were together when i got the car.

TFS valve spring upgrade kit w/stock rockers
Cobra upper/lower intake (used)
FMS 24# injectors with pro-m meter (used)
Aeromotive AFPR w/rail mounted FP gauge
Walbro 255LPH intank pump
shorty headers w/bassani ORX-pipe and dumped flowmasters
MSD blaster coil with fresh dist cap/rotor button and accel 8.8M wires (around a year old)
ProFab upper/lower control arms (solid bushings ugh)
FMS 3.73 gears
BFG Comp T/A DR's 275/50/15 series
stock T-5 w/228k miles on it

Took it to the track after ifnally getting it running this morning. Ran pretty crappy to say the least. with FP at 35psi vac. off and 10 degrees of itming, it ran a PATHETIC 9.86.......8 tenths slower than when it had gears, exhaust and DR's.

turned FP down to 32psi and turned the bottle on (it didnt even hit ) ran a 10.11 1/8th.

I have no idea whats wrong to be honest. Everyone i know who was watching said it was NASTY out of the hole, lookingl iek it was ready to yank the wheels and then feel on its face and had NO top endwhen it went past them......Im stumped. we've thought of the following:

Bad Pro-m MAF
too lean/too rich
timing isnt right (50 dollar autozone timingl ight on stock balancer/marker)
cam is off (advanced/retarded too much)

Im stumped and tired. Ive spent a few thousand on parts and o****less nights and hours in the garage trying to get it back up.....Totally hopeless.

O2 sensors are brand new and I do have an exhaust leak at the header/mid pipe connection on the passenger side...but its not throwing a CEL light.

HELp, im stumped and getting fed up with the car.....I was hoping mid 8's on motor and some high 7's on the 100 NX wet shot and but its looking bleak

Thanks.

 

[Look Its Aaron]

I did not see any mention of cylinder heads... Why are you running 24lbers with stock heads?

 

[2002BLGT]

put the stock injectors and MAF back on it and see what happens ...turn the timing to 14 and post your MPH that will show you more than the ET .....turn the FP up to 39 with vacuum off and plugged

 

[Black1987Stang]

put the stock injectors and MAF back on it and see what happens ...turn the timing to 14 and post your MPH that will show you more than the ET .....turn the FP up to 39 with vacuum off and plugged

I agree unless you have aftermarket heads you dont need 24lbers. Do you have any codes?


2002BLGT-when u say turn the FP up to 39 with vacuum off and plugged, do u mean leave the vac off and plugged and drive it like that or just plug it to adjust the fuel pressure? Just wondering

 

[HISSIN50]

2002BLGT- or just plug it to adjust the fuel pressure? Just wondering

I bet he means the latter (above) version. He will be at WOT at the track anyhow (I dont see a reason to Ever run with the FPR vac-less, let alone on a track car).

 

[Marlboro_Man]

Well some heads would help your combo out . What where your 60ft times and what where your trapspeeds? Stock clutch?

 

[tbi92rs]

Dual friction lcutch built by a reputable local clutch shop.

I went with 24lbs. with a 75mm Pro-m meter. I always heard upgrading those would help ALOT on my combo.

I was also told I could run my 24lbs. but turn FP down to liek 30-32lbs cav. off......I tried that and it ran ****tier IMO.

It stuters in the entire RPM band....not to mention it just feelsl iek it runs liek crap. I just sold my stock meter but i am picking up one from a buddy. ill throw my stock injectors and meter back in there and see what it does....

will i be able to use those injectors/meter with some Twisted wedge heads? if not, ill just sell them. thanks.

 

[maverick0716]

Yes, you could use those with TW heads.....but I do agree that they are way overkill for your setup right now.

 

[tbi92rs]

Yes, you could use those with TW heads.....but I do agree that they are way overkill for your setup right now.

So even if i turn my fuel pressure down to say 30 psi, its still way too much? if so, ill swpa my old 19#'s back on and see if it helps it.

 

[gcwh02]

yea i was told it wouldnt hurt to run 24's too, i just put my 19's back in today with stock mass air, sooo much better, doesnt stutter, runs strong... whatever u have, it would be smart not to change to 24's until you are pushing over 300 or until a healthy h/c/i combo..i learned the hard way haha

 

[gcwh02]

and bump that FP back up when you do

 

[tbi92rs]

tried running it today N/A with 29 PSI vac off/plugged and STILL ran rich as hell.....my buddy rode with me and oculdnt bleieve how much of a turd it was.....sucks too...but hopefulyl thats all it is, id liek to see some track results from my hard work and money into the car. Funny thing is, i just sold my stock MAF 3 days ago!!!

 

[BooWFO]

But really man slap that MAF on and the injector's I told you I could've brought you some 19lbers too. Don't forget change the plugs I bet you fouled at least one of them.

 

[mrswivlepants]

If you're still messing with those 24 pounders check the connections between the harness and each injector. I bent the pins on one of mine and a cylinder wasn't contributing. Dragging that piston around really made my car feel like a dog. After straightening it up the car was back to normal.

 

[jrichker]

Start by diagnosing the problem and don't just throw parts at it.

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.

Fix the codes or post them for help.

If you have fixed the codes or don't have any, then here are the next steps.

Check the fuel pressure while the car is running badly.

Swap the coil for a spare one, if you have a spare. Do the same for the TFI.

 

[BooWFO]

Jrich - he wasn't throwing any codes.
I know he has a stock MAF, and 19lb'rs now, along with some new plugs. Not sure if he has had time to work on it with his work schedule.

 

[BooWFO]

The Stock MAF and 19lbers did the trick. Car Ran Great right up to the last run of the day on the last track day of the year. Then well... It appears to have sheared off about half the teeth off the Dist. Up till then the car was running strong.