Also, before I get too carried away trying to remove the spring hangar, does anyone sell these? I've been looking around but can't find anyone that sells them new, although they must exist because dynacorn makes the whole shell.
I did not have to take off the rear leaf spring bracket when I did mine and rear torque box stays in tact. Can't you come in from the outside lip to get those out.
Hack, very accurate assesment. I had a customer with a 71 Vert that another shop had covered up the rust and charged him for a restoration. Painted and everything. I pryed a huge ball of seam sealer out of the back of the passenger side rocker. I don't remember how many days I had in it, but replaceing that rocker (all of it-front to back) was a big job with lots of bracing. A huge production shop may have or even keep jigs they fabricate, but I made it as I went with one inch square tubing. With the vert there was a ton of bracing to pull a rocker. I would bet 90 hours was for both sides too. 40 hrs is a solid week non stop. I can replace a lot of metal in 40 straight hours.
Duke, what you take apart is up to you. Unless its some rare car, you can cut it apart just about anywhere you want and replace the sections that are rusted. It would be perferable to replace the rocker as a single part though. THe rear inner will be a lot of work to get at but is also probably te most rusted...
Also, does anyone have a measurement for the door opening? I don't think it moved at all, but I'd like to double check. Right now the car is supported with jack stands at the four corners, and then a couple of screw jacks under the subframe connectors. I used a laser level and some shims to get the corner jacks level, so I know the car isn't twisted, but I just want to make sure it isn't bowed in the middle.
I can't tell by the pictures but did you leave the middle cover plate on outer rocker? New rockers come with themif you did. If I don;t get home too late tonight I will meaure my doors but I'm sure your fine - especially if you left the middle plate in and with door braces you have.
The middle plate is out. Between the SFCs and the door braces I think it's pretty strong, but I'd just like to double check before i weld in the new one.
Measured a couple points but not sure it will do you much good. If you have specific areas you'd like me to measure let me know.
Points I measured:
1. 44 5/8 distance from hole for door plunger for interior light to middle hole of door latch in pillar.
2. 45 1/2 disance from door plundger hole to bottom edge of rear window opening in pillar.
I replaced my rockers too. So if off I would not be too concerned if little different. I'm pretty sure no sags on mine - doors lined up pretty good.
I just noticed you have subframe connectors too. I'd be willing to bet your okay.
my measurements ended up being about 1/4" more than yours, but it's even from side to side (with the original driver side rocker in place). If you don't mind, can I get a measurement from the top front corner of the quarter panel to the body panel intersection just above the plunger hole?
That helps will do this evening. Also when I measured to plunger hole on original measurements I measured from dead center on the hole - the hole is flanged out - could theat be where the 1/4" difference is?
Yeah I was measuring from the middle of the hole. I think part of the problem is that where the rear window slot was is a little bit bent in on mine, and I have a hard time measuring to where the middle striker hole is because of my door brace being in the way.
I got the same measurement on my passenger side. The driver side was 1/8" bigger. Not surprised I replaces a ton a sheet metal.
Did you get your inner rockers yet. If not look at the dynacorn ones. On the passenger side I used some other brand - were not EDP's and did not fit very well. I had to massage torque box to get them to work - it was a pain. I heard the Dynacorns are EDP and fit the countour of the outer rocker better. The Dynacorns inners don't have the middle plate section between inner and outer. I've read you can use the inner plate for coupe/fastbacks. Would be easy to just get some sheetmetal and cut one too fit also. They probably don't include it because there complete set inner/outer does not have it. I used full inner/outer on driverside fit nice. CJ has free shipping on rockers. Good luck. Time to start welding
Did not box them in. I thought about it but like you said rather not hold water in - Plus I got mine pretty tight around the wheel well - probably could seam seal the gap if I wanted to,. Let me know how rocker fit. Mine had middle plate and were bare metal. Like I said they did not fit the countour of the inner. When lining up the top of rockers it drop too to much in front - ended up having to flatten the torque box a little to get it to mate properly. Hopefully you will not have the same problem.