Update on fuel pressure problem

[GTNMS89]

Well after i ran all new fuel line on the return side and found a good used fuel pump asymbly, I finaly got the pressure down from 80 psi to 36 psi at idle. Now after all this a new problem has come up. When i crank the car and it is idling the car hunts really bad. I aint sure what would cause that. But also have found a problem worse than that. I got kinda brave and drove the car to the gas station down the road (about 2 miles) got to the gas station and killed the car, and went in to pay for gas. when i came out i relized i was on the wrong side of the pump. So I was going to crank the car and move it. and the car wouldnt start. Well got gas in it and thought that it was just out. Turns out the car had flooded it self out. It only floodes when you kill the car. It actually feels like it is lean going down the road it has no power and has a awful dead spot when you try to floor it. I pulled the plugs and none were wet so i dont think that a injector is sticking, does anyone know what this could be. The car is stock but dosent have o2 sensors. Still trying to get all the bugs out. Thanks yall and sorry it is so long.

 

[jrichker]

Fix the O2 sensors and dump the codes.

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/

If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

 

[2000xp8]

Ya, fix the o2's, they are more of a necessity, not an option.

Why use a used pump setup? A replacement walbro 155 pump is only like $60 on the internet.

 

[GTNMS89]

do you think that the o2 sinsors would cause this problem. I have drove vehicles with non workin o2 and never seen this. I am going to try and dump the codes but the car just had a engine put in and i am sure that there will be all kind of codes i am getting to the point where a carb and intake dont seem to bad a idea. but i want the efi for the driveability

 

[GTNMS89]

its not a used pump i just got the assembly to see if my old one was stopped up or something. and it cured the high fuel pressure problem and created another one

 

[2000xp8]

I'd get the carb idea out of your head.
A. It will devalue the hell out of the car
B. The Efi system is pretty simple
C. A carb can be even more of a PITA, between parts and setup.

Be patient, and fix problems 1 by one, till they are all gone.

Once you fix the o2's, get the codes and take it one step at a time.

Also, DO NOT use any cheap chain store electronics. If it has wires connceted to it, use only real ford.