A few weeks ago I posted about a sqweeking noise coming from what I thought was the motor. Everyone that reply'd said it had to do with the belt(which is what I thought). Well I replaced the belt and the idler pully and nothing has changed..still sqweeks. Then I found something very interesting and very important that I missed. After a year of this noise getting louder and driving me nuts, I never noticed that as soon as I touch the clutch....it stops. Bad clutch? Can someone help me out on this? If it is my clutch getting bad then I guess a new(upgraded) clutch is a good way to start the modification frenzy(cars still bone stock). Any thoughts?
Update:sqweeking Noise
- Thread starter Dustins_95GT
- Start date
HoofnIt
Founding Member
You cannot access the throwout bearing without at least separating the the tranny from the bellhousing. It has no grease zerk and I doubt adding grease would help. The throwout bearing is not that expensive and while you're there you might as well take the tranny all the way out and change the clutch.
95GTeee
New Member
Something else to consider (or another possibility) is that the noise is coming from the distributor. Mine squeeks like a bad throw-out bearing, but after using the long screwdriver stethoscope trick - I found it to be a bad bearing in the distrib! I replaced my idler pulley too. Maybe pressing on the clutch slightly changes the RPMs just enough to make a difference in the distrib. Make sure the noise is coming from UNDER you car if you think it's a bad TOB.
Just a thought from someone who chased the squeeks for several weeks!
Just a thought from someone who chased the squeeks for several weeks!
JJ95GTID
Active Member
My TOB acted the same way. So in went the King Cobra clutch kit which includes the TOB, pressure plate and clutch disk. You don't need the bolt/dowel kit that is suggested if you use your original flywheel. Mine was in good shape so I left it. It is easy to do. Just take your time. When reinstalling the tranny you will notice that the last inch won't go in. Hook up the clutch cable and have someone depress the clutch peddle and slide her in that last inch. This will prevent pushing out the pilot bearing in the flywheel. BTW a tranny jack is awesome in this situation. Best price I found was on www.buyfordracing.com
VIPERn94Five-0
Founding Member
Na5.0, what i think you mean is that you can get some grease onto the retainer (what the TOB slides on). the aluminum ones can get chewed up and sometimes some grease will temporariliy ease the operation.
i would add that upgrading the retainer to steel while in there would probably be a good idea....
as for the KC clutch: the oem units are Valeo's - a very reputable brand, IMHO.
i think the KC units are also Valeo. someone had a thread about this a few days ago,and they said something about the packaging being different or something on some ebay guy's KC. i might pay a few bucks for something from another (non auction) vendor. think of the pennies or percentage of pennies a clutch costs, per shift. i say all of this, only if you have doubts about the ebay unit (like the other thread's poster did)....if not, GFI....good luck.
i would add that upgrading the retainer to steel while in there would probably be a good idea....
as for the KC clutch: the oem units are Valeo's - a very reputable brand, IMHO.
i think the KC units are also Valeo. someone had a thread about this a few days ago,and they said something about the packaging being different or something on some ebay guy's KC. i might pay a few bucks for something from another (non auction) vendor. think of the pennies or percentage of pennies a clutch costs, per shift. i say all of this, only if you have doubts about the ebay unit (like the other thread's poster did)....if not, GFI....good luck.
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95GTvert[bv12]
Founding Member
im hoping you can educate me. i always thought that with clutches, more was not always better. if he has a stock ride, what is the advantage of a stage 2 or 3 over a stage 1? the stage one is good for quite a bit of torque...95GTvert[bv12] said:
(im not trying to be a smarty pants, but the logic behind using a stage 2 or 3 in a stock application is a little foreign to stupid ol' me).
VIPERn94Five-0
Founding Member
well obviously the advantage is going to be the Stage 2 and 3 will hold future power upgrades better than the Stage 1...BUT you you bring up a good point about too much clutch...now im not huge into drag racing(which is apparent since my car has never been to the track) but IMO the clutch should be the weak link in your setup....especially with our hit or miss brittle T5 trannys....id rather have the slightly weaker clutch instead of blowing apart T5's....now if you have the cash to go to a Viper Spec T56 or something of that sort than thats different...but on a T5...a clutch that gets overpowered may save your tranny from a premature death...HISSIN50 said:im hoping you can educate me. i always thought that with clutches, more was not always better. if he has a stock ride, what is the advantage of a stage 2 or 3 over a stage 1? the stage one is good for quite a bit of torque...
(im not trying to be a smarty pants, but the logic behind using a stage 2 or 3 in a stock application is a little foreign to stupid ol' me).
Anthony
well, it really depends upon your mechanical inclination, experience and comfort level. i think the best thing to do is to read the repair manual. you will see a write up and pics of what you have to do. often times, once someone has done something, their response is that job XXX is so easy, but it was probably a little daunting on the first attempt (like most things).94Red5.0 said:
but reading up or asking a bud who knows you is probably the best idea (that i know of). or get a friend and a 6 pack (or keg, depending upon your friend) and do it. best of both worlds - you learn and have a safety net.
that said, it is an academic job - unbolting and bolting.
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Anthony, thanks for the info. im not real conversant with Spec's specs (specifications), but with other clutches, one runs into real streetability issues with too steep a stage of clutch. i would not want a chatterbox for in town...(dont Specs use the same PP for the first two or three stages - just a different disk?).
i did just want to toss out that too much clutch is not always a good thing - if someone wanted to do such, i would suggest they find a friend or friend of a friend with a similar set up to what they want to run, and drive it.
i do agree with ya about the weak link aspect. that coupled with the possibility of streetability issues would be two strikes against it, in my book.
if a bunch of upgrades are done later, a clutch, trans, and or scattershield would probably come along anyhow.
where is Jordan - he would laugh. he posted a thread about which clutch to do, and we beat it to death like this for 2 or 3 pages.
just my two cents worth of thinking. and Anthony, please dont take this as me being a jerk who just disagrees. sometimes i play advocate for a different opinion to find out what is best (in this case, it is my opinion). i really thought you could go overboard with the clutch itself (not worring about the weak-link aspect), otherwise why offer stage one (or two) - we would all run stage 3's.
like i said, your view point is a new one on me - i welcome being educated. but since i am not comfortable with your idea, im kinda beating it to death. i really want to know if i should try a stage 2 or three next time, which is why im floggin the horse. please take no offense.
Anthony.
VIPERn94Five-0
Founding Member
none taken....the Stage 3 is a chatterbox i believe, at least till its broken in...i doubt it will cause any problems honestly, except for maybe some streetability(nothing major i would think)....my point was just something to think on when choosing a clutch....our weak T5's dont need any added stress ya know? lol...ive seen plenty of guys break em on street tires with OEM clutches lol....
...its also ther same kinda thing with a headgasket in a sense....say in a nicew boosted application, your gonna want a nice quality headgasket, but id rather the headgasket be the weak link as far as the motor goes...i know its some work for head gasket replacements, but id rather blow out a HG then crack something else...maybe "weak link" is the wrong way to look at it....maybe safeguard would be better....id feel better about things if i knew the clutch was gonna slip before the tranny blows, or the HG is gonna go before i crack a head lol....
Anthony
...its also ther same kinda thing with a headgasket in a sense....say in a nicew boosted application, your gonna want a nice quality headgasket, but id rather the headgasket be the weak link as far as the motor goes...i know its some work for head gasket replacements, but id rather blow out a HG then crack something else...maybe "weak link" is the wrong way to look at it....maybe safeguard would be better....id feel better about things if i knew the clutch was gonna slip before the tranny blows, or the HG is gonna go before i crack a head lol....
Anthony
VIPERn94Five-0 said:
i agree in full. we be cool. i get what you are saying (kind of a controlled chaos idea - when something goes, you engineered what it will be).
makes sense to me.
and thanks for the clutch info. i really was asking sincerely. i would opt for a stage 2 or 3 if there were no downsides (compared to a stage one, on a mostly stock motor)....hence my having asked. thanks again, Anthony.
VIPERn94Five-0
Founding Member
no problem....id wait on a final decision until a couple more chime in...there are others who have more personal experience with the different stages than i do...HISSIN50 said:i agree in full. we be cool. i get what you are saying (kind of a controlled chaos idea - when something goes, you engineered what it will be).
makes sense to me.
and thanks for the clutch info. i really was asking sincerely. i would opt for a stage 2 or 3 if there were no downsides (compared to a stage one, on a mostly stock motor)....hence my having asked. thanks again, Anthony.
Anthony
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