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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

Upgrading Alternator Questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter HuskerNation
  • Start date Start date Dec 12, 2011

HuskerNation

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Nov 4, 2011
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West Des Moines, IA/Omaha, NE
Dec 12, 2011
#1
  • Dec 12, 2011
  • #1
Hey guys,

I am looking to getting an electric fan set up and found one for a decent price and comes with 12” fan, thermostat fan control and all mounting hardware. I am almost positive I will have to buy an electric thermostat, but the set up is only $162.

I know I need to upgrade my alternator. Anyone know what amp is ok and where to get a decent one for a decent price? Can you overpower the car? I know some cars you will burn the wiring harness if you power it too much, didn't know if that would be the same case here. I don't run a stereo system, except for an amp with component speakers.

If anyone could help me out with this, so I can start putting the funds away, I would appreciate it!

By the way, anyone notice any power difference with doing this mod? I think I am going to do the pulley upgrade with it as well.

Thanks
Husker
 

Adams91LX

Active Member
Dec 9, 2003
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Dec 12, 2011
#2
  • Dec 12, 2011
  • #2
search function will be your friend... check the stickies in the 5.0 tech section
 

HuskerNation

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Nov 4, 2011
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West Des Moines, IA/Omaha, NE
Dec 12, 2011
#3
  • Dec 12, 2011
  • #3
Well see, there is one problem... I can't find the 5.0 Tech Section for the foxbody style. I see 5.0 Tech for '94-95, but not pre '93.
 

1991notchbackLX

Active Member
Dec 25, 2007
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New York
Dec 12, 2011
#4
  • Dec 12, 2011
  • #4
Perhaps RedFoxGT can steer you in the right direction?

Oh, that's right. Well, you can start with a 130A 3G Alternator kit from PA Performance. Be sure to upgrade your ground wires to the same gauge as your power wire.

Yes, you will see a tremendous difference in the way the electronics in your car act. Your dash lights and gauges will be much brighter, won't dim when you put a load on them, and will overall be much better. The stock charging system is barely adequate, even by the standards of the year these cars were built.

Also, try not to undo all of your money and hard work by underdriving or overdriving the alternator to the point where you negate the benefits of having it in the first place. Pulley size is important. Assuming that you're smarter than multi-million dollar R&D tech departments is usually a recipe for disaster.
 

LarsD

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#5
  • Dec 12, 2011
  • #5
I don't think one 12" fan is enough fan.
 

jrichker

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  • Dec 13, 2011
  • #6
Stangnet 3G install sticky http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/646825-3g-alternator-install-how.html#post6673702

Alternator wiring


Starter solenoid wiring 86-91 model cars
Connect the fused 4 gauge wire to the alternator and the battery side of the starter solenoid.


Starter solenoid wiring 92-93 Model cars.


For a 135 amp circuit breaker, see http://www.wiringproducts.com/index1.html price is $34.05

For a 120 amp circuit breaker see http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servlet/catalog?parentid=193073&page=1 price is $29.45

Fuse holder from local NAPA dealer - Item#: BK 7821143 Price: $10.49
Product Features: Thermal Plastic Holder For AMG Type Fuse Rated From 100 To 300 amp

See WWW.partsexpress.com for the fuse & fuse holder.
Fuse @ $3.90 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=071-952

Fuse holder @ $5.80 each (need one). http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=263-630

Check on the wire prices, they tend to change often. Copper is an expensive commodity these days.

4 gauge black wire @ about $1.95 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length). http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-196

4 gauge red wire @ about $1.95 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length). http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-194

4 gauge ring crimp terminals (package of 5) $3.25. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=095-584

3/4 “ Black heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.56
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=082-058

3/4 “ Red heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.56
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=082-064

Pre-fab 4 gauge cables with lugs already on the ends are available in most auto parts stores. Look for the starter switch to starter cables.

Under no circumstances connect the two 10 gauge black/white wires to the 3G alternator. If the fuse blows in the 4 gauge wire, the two 10 gauge wires will be overloaded to the point of catching fire and burning up the wiring harness.

The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. Any car that has a 3G alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects.
 

HuskerNation

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West Des Moines, IA/Omaha, NE
Dec 13, 2011
#7
  • Dec 13, 2011
  • #7
LarsD, they said the fan control will operate up to two electric fans. The fan control unit is only $53. I can always buy a dual racing fan on Ebay. I have heard from many people they are successful.

The 3G Alternator doesn't need any modification to the bracket does it?
 

HuskerNation

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#8
  • Dec 13, 2011
  • #8
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...ks_15030109-P_11_R|GRPALTSAMS_____#fragment-1

Would this alternator work? Its for a '94 GT.
 

jrichker

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  • Dec 13, 2011
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HuskerNation said:
LarsD, they said the fan control will operate up to two electric fans. The fan control unit is only $53. I can always buy a dual racing fan on Ebay. I have heard from many people they are successful.

The 3G Alternator doesn't need any modification to the bracket does it?
Click to expand...
The mounting bracket needs some grinding at the lower rear corner for proper clearance. See
http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/alternator.html - excellent pictures of installation
 

LarsD

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#10
  • Dec 13, 2011
  • #10
HuskerNation said:
LarsD, they said the fan control will operate up to two electric fans. The fan control unit is only $53. I can always buy a dual racing fan on Ebay. I have heard from many people they are successful.

The 3G Alternator doesn't need any modification to the bracket does it?
Click to expand...

Oh OK, I was under the impression you were going to try and use one 12" fan.
 

HuskerNation

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Nov 4, 2011
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West Des Moines, IA/Omaha, NE
Dec 13, 2011
#11
  • Dec 13, 2011
  • #11
Thanks jr for the info! I think I am going to follow Mustang Central's write up. Kind of confused on some of it, but I am sure it will piece together when I get in there lol.
 

HuskerNation

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Nov 4, 2011
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West Des Moines, IA/Omaha, NE
Dec 27, 2011
#12
  • Dec 27, 2011
  • #12
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DUAL-14-INC...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4cfa54705c

Rather than starting a new thread, do you think this fan would be fine? Would I have an issue with the wiring harness? I have the 3g Amp already and the wiring (thanks to my helpful boss at work, it was free )

-Husker
 

stdyhand

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Nov 28, 2011
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Dec 27, 2011
#13
  • Dec 27, 2011
  • #13
I did the 3G upgrade for under $40. I got a 130 amp 3G off a Taurus, clocked it for my Mustang, and picked up the 4 gauge power wire and negative plus the inline fuse. I do keep a higher voltage at idle vs. the old stock one, but for some reason when I hit a power button such as for the windows my voltage still drops very low causing my lights to go extremely dark. I haven't figured out why that is. It just seems like the power windows are drawing a ton of voltage.
 

jrichker

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  • Dec 28, 2011
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stdyhand said:
I did the 3G upgrade for under $40. I got a 130 amp 3G off a Taurus, clocked it for my Mustang, and picked up the 4 gauge power wire and negative plus the inline fuse. I do keep a higher voltage at idle vs. the old stock one, but for some reason when I hit a power button such as for the windows my voltage still drops very low causing my lights to go extremely dark. I haven't figured out why that is. It just seems like the power windows are drawing a ton of voltage.
Click to expand...
Make a trip to the local auto parts chain store (AutoZone, Advanced Auto Parts, etc.) and have the alternator tested in the car. It's free, and can spot problems that would go undetected otherwise.
 
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