Upr Battery Relocation Help

You should run at least 1/0 if not 0/0 welding cable for the + from starter solenoid going back to the trunk. Put either a 135 inline fuse or breaker in between the battery and the cable from the trunk. For the ground, you want to take the existing ground from the battery and attach it to the frame and leave the other end on the timing cover., then for the ground off the battery, attach the other end to the frame or the rear quad shock mounting bracket. If you plan on racing the car you need a kill switch and wire the car so it kills the alternator as well.

@mikestang63
The 2 gauge wire going back to the battery isn't needed if you connect the alternator output to the battery terminal connection on the starter solenoid.

For a battery cut off switch, see http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=42225
is the switch http://www.moroso.com/catalog/images/74102_inst.pdf is the installation instructions.
Use the super duty switch and the following tech note to wire it and you will
be good to go.

Use the Moroso plan for the alternator wiring and you risk a fire. The 10 gauge wire they recommend is even less adequate that the stock Mustang wiring.

There is a solution, but it will require about 40' of 18 gauge green wire.

Wire the battery to the two 1/2" posts as shown in the diagram.

The alternator requires a different approach. On the small alternator plug there is a green wire. It is the sense lead that turns the regulator on when the ignition switch is in the run position. Cut the green wire and solder the 40' of green wire between the two pieces. Use some heat shrink to cover the splices. See http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=7 for some excellent help on soldering & using heat shrink tubing.

Run the green wire back to the Moroso switch and cut off the excess wire. Try to run the green wire inside the car and protect it from getting cut or chaffed. Crimp a 18 gauge ring terminal (red is 18 gauge color code for the crimp on terminals) on each wire. Bolt one ring terminal to each of the 3/16" studs. Do not add the jumper between the 1/2" stud and the 3/16" stud as shown it the
Moroso diagram.

How it works:
The green wire is the ignition on sense feed to the regulator. It supplies a turn on signal to the regulator when the ignition switch is in the Run position. Turn the Moroso switch to off, and the sense voltage goes away, the voltage regulator shuts off and the alternator quits making power.

The fuse & wiring in the following diagram are for a 3G alternator. The stock alternator uses a dark green fuse link wire that connects to 2 black/orange wires. Always leave them connected to the starter solenoid even if you have a 3G alternator.



See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ Everyone should bookmark this site.

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg




Rear mounted battery ground wiring. Follow this plan and you will have zero
ground problems.

One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot on the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean shiny spot on the block.

One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.




The computer has a dedicated power ground wire with a cylindrical quick connect (about 2 ½”long by 1” diameter. It comes out of the wiring harness near the ignition coil & starter solenoid (or relay). Be sure to bolt it to the chassis ground in the same place as you bolted the alternator power ground. This is an absolute don’t overlook it item for EFI cars

Note: The quick disconnect may have fallen victim to damage or removal by a previous owner. However, it is still of utmost importance that the black/green wires have a high quality ground..

Picture courtesy timewarped1972

Crimp or even better, solder the lugs on the all the wire. The local auto stereo shop will have them if the auto parts store doesn't. Use some heat shrink tubing to cover the lugs and make things look nice.

pete_05_gt said:

Ok the directions that came in the kit don't say any of that lol. I guess I will follow these instructions to prevent any chance of a fire. Do I need the cutoff switch? The car will probably never see any track time mainly just moving for cosmetic reasons.

Click to expand...

The cutoff switch was included to comply with racetrack requirements for a battery cutoff switch. It isn't required for street driving.

I would also recommend the following

• Use rubber grommets for all holes where the cables pass through
• make sure all the ground connections are shiny,,, clean, free of paint, and tight
• I would run the cable under the car- in case of a fire you dont set the inside of hte car on fire
• attach the cable with insulated P clamps not zip ties

mikestang63 said:

I would also recommend the following

• Use rubber grommets for all holes where the cables pass through
• make sure all the ground connections are shiny,,, clean, free of paint, and tight
• I would run the cable under the car- in case of a fire you dont set the inside of hte car on fire
• attach the cable with insulated P clamps not zip ties

Click to expand...

Here's what a P clamp looks like if you haven't seen one.


Home Depot has them see http://www.homedepot.com/s/insulated%20clamps?NCNI-5

Hey all ! Little question, is the 135A circuit breaker on the positive side of the battery is big anought for the starter current draw ?