Engine Vacuum reserve capacity question

I have a 73 Mustang with an 87 5.0 drivetrain, with all stock systems, except the TAB/TAD system is removed. I was wondering if I could plumb the vacuum needs of the EGR regulator and the AC system by using just one vacuum canister? I would use at least one check valve (between the intake and canister). Do you think that is sufficient capacity for those needs?
 
Are you going to use a large 70's era Ford "Coffee Can" vacuum reservoir or the Foxbody HVAC "Sphere" and TAB/TAD "Tuna Can" combo?
As mentioned above, size/capacity matters (as it always does...).

If you are using the Foxbody reservoirs and not using the "Tuna Can" for the TAB/TAD you can "T" them together. There's no penalty for having a larger vacuum reservoir capacity on your HVAC vacuum control lines.
 
Yea, I kinda screwed up. When I did the layout of the 73 and 87 components I needed, I only made room for one small vacuum canister. It’s a small round, cylindrical plastic unit with the strap at the bottom. It’s not stock 73 or 87, one I had from a previous project that fit in the space I had. I may try and fit the stock 87 ball shaped unit in the same space, under the vapor recovery can. It’s got to be twice the volume of the one there now. And yes, while I’m unsure how much vacuum the EGR regulator would consume while at cruising speed, the 73 AC unit has 3 or 4 vacuum motors on the HCAV unit. Really, I figured my only concern would be under WOT conditions. With the check valve in place, can’t see reaching over to change the settings on the HVAC unit with my right foot buried on the pedal. But, the EGR regulator is something I’m not well versed on, in typical operating situations. So, once I get back to my car in a few weeks, I’ll post a pic. I will see if I can fit the larger unit in its place. Thanks for the helpful questions.
 
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If this diagram can be used for the 87/73 integration, it seems I can get away with not using the vacuum reserve on anything but the HVAC unit. I will need two check valves though. Am I reading that correctly?
 
What reason you have to move the controls during WOT?
A vac can with a check valve on the engine to can line and the controls don't move when vac drops.
Am I missing something?
Since this is a transplant and no emissions (right) you don't need vac to the EGR valve I think.
it's normally closed right?
 
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I was being sarcastic. I was exaggerating the circumstances.

I’m thinking I’m good with the small reserve I have, but I’m gonna explore if the ball shaped stock one from the 87 will fit. I posted that diagram to illustrate the stock setup doesn’t use a reserve on the EGR regulator. Now, if that diagram is wrong, it would be nice for someone to inform me. So, thanks for the questions.
 
That schematic you posted is correct. I just took off my EGR and Smog pump vacuum solenoids and used that same schematic. This is what it looks like in reality. Single black hose goes to vacuum can. EGR top, TAB,TAD bottom.

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Looking close you can see the red vacuum line for the EGR is bypassing any check valves and hooked straight up. That red line splits and goes to a check valve, then to a vacuum can and then to TAB,TAD.


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This whole assembley is seperate from the climate control vacuum. It comes out just like it looks in the picture. The climate control uses a little vacuum ball the size of a baseball. Maybe a little smaller.

The EGR seems to use no vacuum reserve. Probably because its only operated under light throttle amd steady cruise to the bestof my knowledge. It's not used during WOT or heavy throttle. So the lack of vacum reserve makes sense.