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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
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Valve Covers and multiple coils

  • Thread starter Thread starter Route666
  • Start date Start date May 14, 2005

Route666

Active Member
Aug 16, 2003
1,652
6
39
Brisbane, Australia
May 14, 2005
#1
  • May 14, 2005
  • #1
I didn't want to butt into the other valve cover thread going on, so here we are.

Say you were going to use a distributorless ignition system with a coil per cylinder run in a wasted spark setup, would it be ok to screw the coils onto the valve covers? Would it be ok / would there be enough clearance under say the tall ford racing covers for some short self-tapping metal screws to not interfere with the rockers?

Ok if you're using that sort of ignition, you're probably using some sort of good valvetrain gear too, so would you be able to clear roller rockers and a girdle? (just the extreme case, so all others would be no worries)

All that would be needed is about 1/4", if that, and there'd be a heap of loctite on the screws too.

Would there be problems with leaks? Would the screws fall out from vibration?

I'd be less worried about these screws screwed in from the outside than the ones inside holding the baffle plates on, that could fall into the engine, and that cannot be checked easily, nor often.
 
H

HuKares

New Member
Nov 19, 2002
90
0
0
Canton, Ohio
May 15, 2005
#2
  • May 15, 2005
  • #2
I'm runing fabricated covers over stud girdles and there is plenty of room between them. Also the rockers don't go much higher than the bottom of the girdle so they woouldn't be a problem either. I wouldn't use sheet metal screws. If you were going to this level, tap a bar of aluminum and weld in to the top of the valve covers. Then you can use bolts and not worry about leaks and metal shavings in the motor.
Also, I'm hoping that with a girdle, I won't need to run a baffle. The oil fill and PCV valves are located right above the girdle so I'm thinking it should act as a decent baffle itself. I haven't run the motor enough to see if my theory holds up yet.
 

Route666

Active Member
Aug 16, 2003
1,652
6
39
Brisbane, Australia
May 15, 2005
#3
  • May 15, 2005
  • #3
True enough. You know just after I posted I did some searching for covers and found some fabricated ones and thought, I could draw my own peices and cut them (work at a laser cutting place) out of 6mm aluminium or so, and tap the bolts into the top. I could also make it high enough to clear, and also weld in my own baffles, so wouldn't have to worry about that falling off and into the mix. I won't get the same baffle effect from the girdle as I want to use rail-mounted rockers. (without a girdle)
 

Max Power

Active Member
Jul 31, 2003
1,774
1
36
St Paul
May 15, 2005
#4
  • May 15, 2005
  • #4
I would think filling the dizzy hole and driving the oil pump would be a bigger challenge.
 

Route666

Active Member
Aug 16, 2003
1,652
6
39
Brisbane, Australia
May 16, 2005
#5
  • May 16, 2005
  • #5
Well I've already thought of that, http://www.msdignition.com/ignition_27_d_8522_8506_8521.htm

it will give signal for the DIS and sequential EFI, fill the hole and drive the oil pump.
 

Bullitt

Packin' Heat
Founding Member
Jan 13, 2000
2,743
0
47
Houston, TX
May 16, 2005
#6
  • May 16, 2005
  • #6
you could drill holes for the hardware and have aluminum bolts welded in with the threaded part sticking above the valve cover (think like head studs).

no rattle issues or parts falling into your valve train, and you could machine/grind off the head of the bolt if you didn't have the required clearance.
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
4,675
38
119
Antelope Valley, SoCal
May 16, 2005
#7
  • May 16, 2005
  • #7
HuKares said:
If you were going to this level, tap a bar of aluminum and weld in to the top of the valve covers. Then you can use bolts and not worry about leaks and metal shavings in the motor.
Click to expand...

Thats what I was thinking also. Heli-Coiling the holes is a good idea too.
 

Route666

Active Member
Aug 16, 2003
1,652
6
39
Brisbane, Australia
May 17, 2005
#8
  • May 17, 2005
  • #8
Bullitt said:
you could drill holes for the hardware and have aluminum bolts welded in with the threaded part sticking above the valve cover (think like head studs).

no rattle issues or parts falling into your valve train, and you could machine/grind off the head of the bolt if you didn't have the required clearance.
Click to expand...

Yeh that's another good idea, I don't know why I didn't think of welding them in. I guess I just didn't think about this whole idea too hard lol.

Is there any real problem with threadings into aluminium? (without helicoils) I don't think I'll be taking these on and off that often, hopefully only put them on once, and never off.
 
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