Valve float problem?
- Thread starter brytell
- Start date
oz
Founding Member
It's more likely a 'missfire'. One cylinder is not firing and therefore the unburned fuel/air mixture is getting into the exhaust and burning with a 'thump' as it mixes with exhause from other cylinders.
Valve float only occurs at very high RPM anyway...
Valve float only occurs at very high RPM anyway...
so is it my timing then. I was playing around with my distributor making passes to see if the problem would go away and it did. when i checked my timing. it read 26deg adv. Is this really high timing? I'm running low compression, so could this be why i need such high timing? I'm soon planing on running 17 to 20 psi of boost.
Thanks.
Thanks.
oz
Founding Member
If you pulled the SPOUT connector and you're still running 26 advanced, I'm shocked that the car will even start... or run without detonation.
Are you sure you pulled the SPOUT?
You should set initial timing around 12 degrees.
Oh yea, are you sure you pulled the SPOUT????
Are you sure you pulled the SPOUT?
You should set initial timing around 12 degrees.
Oh yea, are you sure you pulled the SPOUT????
Wallzy
New Member
oz
Founding Member
Just goose the engine (W/ SPOUT out) and see if the timing goes up to about 36 degrees total at 2,000 rpm. If not, phutch11 is probably on to something. Change should be about ~26 degrees (~10 at idle to ~36 at 2,000 rpm).
Detonation = pinging = a loud clatter that sounds like a diesel engine... very bad!!!
Thanks. Couple of questions: what is goose the engine and what is the Stator?
I just checked the timing and these are the numbers: with spout 38deg adv. without spout 28 deg. adv. could it require this much adv. timing, because of my low compression and the altitude im at. I'm around 5000ft. Albuquerque, NM. Holla! I believe its around 4psi lower then at sea level.
I just checked the timing and these are the numbers: with spout 38deg adv. without spout 28 deg. adv. could it require this much adv. timing, because of my low compression and the altitude im at. I'm around 5000ft. Albuquerque, NM. Holla! I believe its around 4psi lower then at sea level.
oz
Founding Member
When I say 'goose' the engine, I mean quickly open the throttle so the RPM's go up. What is the advance when the engine is running at a constant 2000 rpm.
sounds to me like your gonna need a 2" thick girdle with your plans...
set the timing to 10 degrees BTDC, if it is really reading 26 degrees with the spout out, your gonna break something, unless you have 120 octane in the tank your not telling us about.
set the timing to 10 degrees BTDC, if it is really reading 26 degrees with the spout out, your gonna break something, unless you have 120 octane in the tank your not telling us about.
I dont know what the heck in going on with my car. I reset the timing back to 12deg and it seems to be running fine. I think the air/fuel is not as rich at a lower degree though. I might need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to up the air/fuel level. What do you think?
So what is the theory behind timing?
So what is the theory behind timing?
Not trying to hi jack your thread, but i have the same issue in california at sea level. seems like we have the same problem. i have a stock shortblock. I can put my timing at 11-12 degrees and it detonates and breaks up after 3k rpm and especially in 3rd and 4th gear. I put it at 15 initial and it runs great. no pinging or nothing. But eventually it will run hot and it seems to retard itself to where it will start detonating like it did with 11-12 degrees initial timing...... I pull the computer advance clip before everytime also. Im interested in hearing about the stator or TFI? Or could it be computer? worn timing chain? i have 200k miles on it.
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