vapor-lock???

66 Tiger · May 9, 2007

FINALLY - after 7 long months, I got my car started. ( yee, haw ) I was so excited I drove several laps around my block, open headers & all. Several minutes later the police showed up. Apparently one of my neighbors wasn't enjoying the sound of the motor as much as me!

View attachment 386465

The cool thing was the cops were more interested in checking out the car rather than hassling me. LOL...

Anyway - On the way home from the exhaust shop today the motor started making little popping sounds - more like little back-fires through the carb. There was some stuttering too when applying more throttle. I also noticed a significant loss of power. ( when revving the engine it almost felt like a 4cyl ? ) The temp was in the low 80's.

Does this sound like it could be vapor-lock?

My fuel line is rubber hose & currently routed up along the bell-housing, behind the passenger side head, & into the carb. I also have a Holley red elec fuel pump rated at 7psi if that make any difference...

Thanks in advance.

68RCodeConv · May 9, 2007

If the fuel line is touching the motor/tranny ANYWHERE you have opened the door for vapor lock.

66 Tiger · May 9, 2007

68RCodeConv said:
If the fuel line is touching the motor/tranny ANYWHERE you have opened the door for vapor lock.

It's definately sort-of squished between the fire-wall & head. You can also see in pic #2 where the fuel line coming out of the "el cheapo" regulator is laying flat againsted the intake...

I'll try to reposition it.

Do you think from my description of how the motor is acting that what I am experiencing actually is vapor-lock?

Thanks...

krash kendall · May 9, 2007

It sounds like fuel starvation of some sort, being either vapour lock or fuel line restriction. Can you route the line along the seam where the rocker meets the floor and then up the fire wall?

66 Tiger · May 9, 2007

krash kendall said:
It sounds like fuel starvation of some sort, being either vapour lock or fuel line restriction. Can you route the line along the seam where the rocker meets the floor and then up the fire wall?

Unfortunately, the answer is no.

The fire-wall is only as wide as the engine so trying to come up either side would put the fuel-line right beside the headers.

My only option is to try running it to the front of the motor & then up and over...

I've contemplated running the line through the interior & then through a gromet in the fire-wall but that would be kind of sketchy regarding safety & all that.

rbohm · May 9, 2007

run the electric pump, that will cure any vapor lock problems. but do run a return line to the tank at the same time. perhaps i should say to the primary tank. by the way, nice tiger.

by the way, where in virginia are you at? i may want to pop by and steal........err check out the tiger as i have only seen one other before, and that was many years ago.

66 Tiger · May 9, 2007

rbohm said:
run the electric pump, that will cure any vapor lock problems. but do run a return line to the tank at the same time. perhaps i should say to the primary tank. by the way, nice tiger.

by the way, where in virginia are you at? i may want to pop by and steal........err check out the tiger as i have only seen one other before, and that was many years ago.

LOL! I'd probably end up making out better with the insurance...

I live right out-side of Lexington.

ron67fb · May 9, 2007

66 Tiger said:
Anyway - On the way home from the exhaust shop today the motor started making little popping sounds - more like little back-fires through the carb. There was some stuttering too when applying more throttle. I also noticed a significant loss of power. ( when revving the engine it almost felt like a 4cyl ? ) The temp was in the low 80's.

Does this sound like it could be vapor-lock?

No, it sounds like your ignition is shorting out. Crossfire, melted wire somewhere, loose coil connection, coil shorting against engine block, broke the carbon contact while installing the cap... ? Fuel problems won't likely cause stuttering at light to zero load.

The best way to confirm vapor lock is with a fuel pressure gauge. You should install one after your regulator. You could probably find a T for your dual feed that has a gauge tap built-in.

CraigMBA · May 9, 2007

Versallis?

D.Hearne · May 9, 2007

Nice Tiger!!!!!!! A couple things I'd do that'll probably help. Separate the plug wires. Ditch the electric choke. The old gas in the tank might be a factor. What intake is that on it?

66 Tiger · May 10, 2007

D.Hearne said:
Nice Tiger!!!!!!! A couple things I'd do that'll probably help. Separate the plug wires. Ditch the electric choke. The old gas in the tank might be a factor. What intake is that on it?

Thanks -

I drained the tanks prior to starting - didnt really see any particles in the container.

I also installed a new fuel filter.

Today I'll try seperating the wires. ( I sure like the way they look zip-tied though, LOL )

It's a Wieland Stealth...

PS. The motor only did this after it got warmed up - after appx 5min driving?

D.Hearne · May 10, 2007

Could be a choke problem too. Next time it does it, pull over and pull the aircleaner and see where the choke plate is. I've had a similar problem with a manual choke after it got bumped while working on the engine.

krash kendall · May 10, 2007

Oh, jees! I didn't even notice the wires. When they are run tightly parralell like that they will crossfire and the path of least resistance. That would usually be the shotest wire, or the wire with the best contact to any part of the engine.

By the way, my uncle had a '65 Tiger with a dealer replacement/upgrade Boss 302.

ron67fb · May 10, 2007

If you really like the zip tie look, try what I did:

1. Wrap one tie loosely around 4 wires
2. In between wires, wrap another tie around the main tie
3. snug up main tie, then tighten the in-betweenies
4. snip all excess

Choke problem to the point of making it sound like a 4-cylinder would create a strong gas smell and lots of smoke.

Is this happening at light or heavy load? How about if you just rev it in neutral when warmed up, will it still stutter?

66 Tiger · May 10, 2007

ron67fb said:
Choke problem to the point of making it sound like a 4-cylinder would create a strong gas smell and lots of smoke.

Is this happening at light or heavy load? How about if you just rev it in neutral when warmed up, will it still stutter?

Your wires look great - thanks for the tip.

I had been on the Highway for a couple of minutes @ about 3000rpm when I all of a sudden I started to " hear " little popping sounds. They sounded like they were coming from the carb. ( prior to that everything was fine )

Next thing I knew I started to " feel " intermittent stutters - this was all at a constant 3000rpm.

I noticed that upon applying more throttle the car would pop & stutter more than if I just tried to hold it at a constant rpm.

It also seemed to have significantly less power at this point. ( hence the 4cyl comparison )

I didn't notice any extra smoke or strong odor's either.

When I got the car to my driveway I got out and attempted to let it idle, which it did just fine. When I opened the hood & started to rev the motor at the throttle linkage the motor started to idle extremely high. ( maybe at 3000rpm or so before I shut it off ) It kind of reminded me of when I've ran out of gas on a motorcycle - you get that motor revving right before it dies?

Unfortunately my new Ford Racing starter broke & now I have to wait for the replacement to arrive before I can continue my trouble shooting. I am quite anxious to see if everything is back to normal when I fire the engine back up...

Randy'65 · May 10, 2007

That is a sweet car. I can't offer anything on your problem, other than vaporlock was only a problem to me when I shot off the car on a warm day and all the heat rose up through the carb and boiled the gas out, making it impossible to start.

Do you know anything about the history of that car? I had an uncle that had one like that, it sat in the tall grass for years on a family farm until the farm had to be sold. He gave it to his brother (man, I wanted that car something terrible), and I'm not sure if he sold it before or after he restored it. That would have been an awesome project car. I'm just curious because my family is from the Staunton area, which is just a little North of you, so you never know. Not too many around these parts.

dchandler60 · May 10, 2007

You might recheck timing and carb floats etc. Did it run with open headers?? If so when you put the exhaust on you now change the back pressure of the engine and this will require adjustments far as idle etc, at least that is what happened to me. Hope this helps

66 Tiger · May 10, 2007

Randy'65 said:
That is a sweet car. I can't offer anything on your problem, other than vaporlock was only a problem to me when I shot off the car on a warm day and all the heat rose up through the carb and boiled the gas out, making it impossible to start.

Do you know anything about the history of that car? I had an uncle that had one like that, it sat in the tall grass for years on a family farm until the farm had to be sold. He gave it to his brother (man, I wanted that car something terrible), and I'm not sure if he sold it before or after he restored it. That would have been an awesome project car. I'm just curious because my family is from the Staunton area, which is just a little North of you, so you never know. Not too many around these parts.

Thank you -

The car has been a South Florida car for the past 20 years at least. It was in Orlando for a couple of years ( sitting in a field on a farm ) before I got it.

Your right too , there aren't that many around. That's why I keep loitering around on StangNet when it comes to trying to find help & advice when working on it...

:SNSign:

ron67fb · May 11, 2007

OK so vapor lock is pretty unlikely if it's happening at steady state highway speed. Fuel demand is low at this point. If the ignition checks out I'd look for vacuum leaks which can cause the high idle you describe.

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