vent weather stripping

[Cobain03]

i got my vent window strips in the amil but have no clue how to put them on or remove the old ones. you all know how?

 

[12sec67]

wish i could help... i don't know either, sorry.


but i'll bump it for you!

 

[TIGGER]

It has been quite a few years since I did mine. You will basically have to take the wing window assembly out of the door and take apart the channels to get the weatherstripping out. Once you get it out it should be fairly simple to get it apart. I don't think there is a way to do it in the car but I may be wrong on that. Taking it out the assembly would probably be easier and you would be less likely to damage the paint while you are working on it. While you are at it, you may as well replace the window channel weatherstripping while you have it apart.

 

[geegee]

i got my vent window strips in the amil but have no clue how to put them on or remove the old ones. you all know how?

Yes, its a long procedure written up a number of times before. There's three pieces of window weatherstrip:

a. belt line weatherstrip (main glass)
b. vent window division bar
c. vent window frame
d. vent window tip weatherstrip

Since the job is long, you only want to do it once. Might as well replace all pieces. Each of the above pieces has its challenge:

a above. The beltline weatherstrip requires the main glass be removed. The gasket at the back of the door is removed, the interior door upholstery, the moisture seal (paper like item between upholstery and door). Remove the window UP locks. There is one at the front of the window frame and one at the back. The front one is held on by a body screw. The rear by an allen screw. You access these through the holes in the door after the upholstery and moisture seal is removed. You'll have to roll the window almost up and jockey it around in order to get your hands and arms into the access holes to reach these. I recollect the front is accessible directly. I recollect the rear is accessed from the rear edge of the door and by reaching your hand inside the door to hold the rear uplock when it comes loose. With the window rolled near full up, unbolt the rear channel from the rear edge of the door (two body screws and one nut accessed through a port on the back lower edge of the door). Reach in the door access hole and wiggle the rear channel upward at the bottom then out the access hole in the door. The window will want to shift around now and want to fall, so be careful with it.
Once these are out, roll the window down to expose the nylon rollers that hold the window sissors in the channel Do not unbolt the channels or you'll have a deuce of a job getting them to roll up/down later. Simply unclip the rollers. They have a spring clip holding them. Pull laterally on the scissors and they will come loose leaving the roller free to rotate down and out of the channel. Examine them for wear and replace if worn. They should fit tightly over the roller posts but roll easily once on. They should not wobble. Replace later if required. Once the rollers are off the window is free to fall so be sure to pack some rags in the bottom of the door before you remove the rollers. You actually need three hands to do this but two and some rags or a wood block go a long way towards providing support. Once the window is loose, you can man handle it to the top of the window, and pull it out the top of the door shell, when it catches on the lower frame of the glass draw it backwards and out the door shell. Once the main glass is out, the beltline weatherstrips at each inside edge of the door shell can be replaced. Use a screwdriver blade from inside the door to trigger the spring catch on the weatherstrip (about eight places - examine the new one so you'll know) while using a putty knife inserted between the weather strip and the door shell. It will pop loose one catch at a time. When released remove it from the door. It can't be reused unless you are extremely careful about taking it out. Once bent, its useless. Pop the new beltline weatherstrips in paying attention to which end is the rear end of the weatherstrip (its shaped at the rear end). Of course, if you're doing more, you won't want to replace these until you get the vent window done in the next step below.

b above. Remove the vent window and front channel as a single piece. To do this there are two adjuster nuts and two body bolts with large square washers. Make a note showing how must thread exposure is evident on the adjuster nuts. This will be a guide to getting the window adjustments right later when reassembling. Remove adjuster lock nuts first. Remove square washer/body bolts next. Push adjuster screws out of the door shell while lifting the vent window upward and back. It comes out the top of the door shell. Remove vent window frame (pot metal part) from the front channel by drilling out the rivets holding the two pieces together. Separate front channel. This piece contains the division bar weather strip. The assembly consists of two pieces - the channel and the channel molding. The channel molding simply clips over the channel. Since its been there so long, its likely to have somewhat frozen to the channel. I used a wood block to drive the molding off the end of the channel. Once the molding is off you can see the small rivets that hold it to the molding. Drill out the rivets, and reinstall the new piece. Here's how I did it: I went to a leathercraft store to buy a cheap rivet set (tool) of the right size. I chucked up a piece of angle iron in my bench vise to use as an anvil. Note the "anvil" has to be thin enough the molding slips over it. It also has to be a short segment of angle iron so that it fits nicely in the curved molding. Use small screws and nuts in two places as temporary rivet replacements. This will fix the division bar weatherstrip in position. Insert a rivet in the remaining hole(s) and place over angle-iron anvil. Use rivet set tool and a quick clean hammer blow on the tool to set the rivet. Repeat for remaining rivet holes. When done successfully, the division bar weatherstrip will be tightly held to the molding. The hammered end of the rivet should be clean and flat looking. If you get poor sets, drill out and repeat with new rivet. Note: you can order rivets in batches of 100 from the leathercraft store more cheaply than buying another weatherstrip kit. Once successful, drive the molding back on the channel with the wooden block.

c above. Replace the vent window frame (VWF) weatherstrip by prying it out of the VWF channel. It holds itself in with a steel spring having thorns at the edges (bite into the interior of the VWF channel). Insert new weatherstrip squarely in groove and push into place.

d above. The tip weatherstrip requires a special tool to avoid breaking the tip of the VWF. Drill out the existing chrome rivet and use special tool to replace the tip weatherstrip. This tool can usually be borrowed or rented from an auto glass store (one being in business since forever). If you can't find a suitable auto glass shop, or can't get someone at an auto glass shop to do the tip, then you can purchase the tool needed from Scott Drake Mustang parts (NPD carries it). About $100.

Install removed parts in reverse order of disassembly. Before doing this examine the lining in the front and rear channels. The front channel is replaceable. The rear channel has replaceable moleskin. If these aren't in good shape the window will always work poorly. For a smooth operating window, good moleskin is needed. Don't lubricate the channels as this only makes things worse.

Align VWF with windshield pillar. It should have the same slant as the pillar. It should interfere (bite into) with the door weatherstrip by 0.060". It may not interfere correctly if the door weatherstrip is old and shrunk. If it is old and shrunk then you'll get a lot of wind noise in the cockpit. The bottom edge of the VWF should stick out the top of the door shell about 5/8", so it isn't bottomed out in the door shell when properly installed. Use the square washer body screws to hold it in position. These should be firm enough to hold the VWF but loose enough so you can man handle the VWF into position. The front adjuster adjusts the VWF such that it streamlines with the car body. The lower front channel adjuster adjusts the VWF so that it tilts inward at the tip towards the body. Once is in tighten the square body bolts to freeze it in position.

Install the beltline weatherstrip and then install the main glass. Prop up in the door with wood and install the front and rear uplocks. Adjust the front uplock so the upper front edge of the main glass just interferes with the door frame weatherstrip 0.060". Adjust the back uplock to get the rear corner of the window positioned correctly having 0.060" interference. Install nylon rollers first in channel then push scissors pin into the roller. The spring clip on the roller should automatically slip over the end of the pin then lock in place on the scissors pivot pins (just snap on). Insert the rear channel being sure the upper edge aligns with the door shell. Roll window down into loose rear channel then install body screws to fix it in position. These should be loosely installed until the back channel is adjusted. Note that the back channel lower bolt is in a slip clip allowing it to slide laterally in and out. Examine the curvature of the glass and match the curvature of the rear channel to the glass. When the curve of the front channel matches the curve of the rear channel the glass will run smoothly up/down (with good moleskin). When you find the sweet spot, tighten rear body screws and the nut at the lower edge of the rear channel. Roll window up/down a number of times to validate it works right and fits correctly into the door frame when the door is closed.

Hope this helps.

 

[2nd Mustang]

I removed and replaced both the inner and outer belt line weatherstrips without removing the window or door panels. Just rolled down the windows as far as they would go and carefully pry the old ones out with the proper window tool. Harbor Freight (yes I know they're cheap tools) sells a door tool kit for about $4.00. I then just snapped the new retaining clips that come with the weatherstrips into the holes. I need to replace my vent window seals soon, but then again, it never rains in So Cal, right?

 

[Cobain03]

so as what i see i need to do ( d ) for the vent weather strip the one that goes at the tip of the glass?

the back quarter glass needs it too i think or maybe needs adjusted there is a smalll crack at the top where it meets the door glass it looks fine but for the gap i should say

 

[geegee]

The tip weather strip is difficult to replace because its at the thin end of a fragile piece of pot metal. If you break the tip accidentally then you'll spend $250 to replace the vent window frames. Since special tools are required that cost $100, its best to shell out $50 to a glass shop and have them do the work for you. Bottom line is you can replace the tip weatherstrip but its risky without the correct tools.

I have no quarter glass in my '65 fastback so don't have any advice for you. I would look to see if the problem is the position of the glass or the fact that the door weatherstrip is shrunk away. Once you know what the problem is, then its easier to plan an approach for fixing it.

 

[GaPonyFarm]

Its really not all that difficult... Just order a kit for weatherstripping you want to change. The most difficult part in changing the vent window weatherstripping is riveting the new glass run back on, and getting the window adjusted. The kits I've used, have great instructions with them, but the Ford service manual is a great resource to have also.

Don't be afraid to do the work yourself, just don't force pieces in place, and have a little patience.

Good Luck!

 

[Cobain03]

well i might check around and see if someone odes that kind of work it will be the best way maybe