Very frustrating brake pad install...

Grandmaster

New Member

Dec 7, 2002

374

0

0

Monticello, Arkansas

Jul 4, 2008

#1

• Jul 4, 2008

• #1

Ok so I'm changing the rotors and pads on the back of my car. I put the new rotor on and put the new pads into place in th caliper bracket. However, when I try to put the caliper back into place it will not fit. It is as if the outer brake pad is just too thick. The caliper is not big enough to fit over the outer brake pad and the caliper bracket. It simply does not reach from one side to the other like it is supposed to. I put the old outer pad back into place, which is about half the thickness of the new outer pad, and the caliper went right into place.

Is there some magic trick to this or something? Do I just have to beat it all into place with a hammer or some junk? I checked with the part store and I have the right pads.

Please help. Thanks.

 

SN95StangMan

New Member

Jul 5, 2003

1,292

0

0

Lynwood, CA

Jul 4, 2008

#2

• Jul 4, 2008

• #2

Did you compress the piston all the way back into the caliper?

Do you have Cobra rotors in the rear? Because if you do, the pads for the cobra calipers should be slightly thinner than those of the GT/V6

 

desertcox05

New Member

Oct 3, 2007

379

0

0

south atlanta

Jul 4, 2008

#3

• Jul 4, 2008

• #3

i just did mine also the piston has to be compressed all the way back into the caliper

 

Grandmaster

New Member

Dec 7, 2002

374

0

0

Monticello, Arkansas

Jul 4, 2008

#4

• Jul 4, 2008

• #4

Ok I found out what I was doing wrong. I did have the piston compressed all the way. However, I didn't realized that the caliper bolt pins were adjustable, and would squish in and out. The reason I did not realize this is because the pins on that side of the car were basically frozen in place with rust. I read in the book that they were moveable and actually had to swap the caliper bracket from my 7.5 over to the passenger side of the 8.8 because those pins were frozen.

So I swapped the bracket from the 7.5 over and got it all put back together. At least I'll know for next time.

 

S

spock2001us

Member

Aug 23, 2005

143

0

16

Jul 7, 2008

#5

• Jul 7, 2008

• #5

Those stupid pins on the caliper are a PITA.....more than once I have had to put heat on them to get them to move....now I make sure I grease them up good to keep them from rusting up.

 

poboys 94

Member

Dec 5, 2006

115

2

18

St. Louis Mo.

Jul 7, 2008

#6

• Jul 7, 2008

• #6

If you have a wire wheel clean them up with that, and spray some brake clean in the hole were the pin slides in, and clean it good then use some caliper lube, not the anti sieze on the pins, anti sieze the hardware were the pads slide onto the bracket, I also think you have to turn the piston so the hole in the caliper piston lines up with the little tab on the pad. It's little things like that that make the difference between a quality install and an alley mechanic "pad slap".

 

T

tderrick

Member

Oct 27, 2004

312

0

17

Jul 12, 2008

#7

• Jul 12, 2008

• #7

What's the best thing to use to compress the piston back in??

I'll be putting mine back on shortly...

 

drakesdad

Member

Jul 29, 2005

961

0

16

Oregon OHIO

Jul 12, 2008

#8

• Jul 12, 2008

• #8

tderrick said:

What's the best thing to use to compress the piston back in??

I'll be putting mine back on shortly...

Click to expand...

It may not be the best but everytime I have done brake work on any of my cars.....
I use a large C-Clamp......I use either a small piece of wood or the old brake pad to evenly distribute the pressure.....and remove the cap off of the MC...and break loose the bleeder ...........it has worked fine every time with no damage or negative effects.......

 

S351Saleen77

Member

Jun 27, 2002

423

0

16

Washington

Jul 12, 2008

#9

• Jul 12, 2008

• #9

DO NOT COMPRESS THE PISTON BACK IN!!!!!! You will cause damage!!!

This is ONLY for the rear brakes, they do NOT compress in they TURN in.
You can rent this tool for free I think at Autozone, I just bougt it so I would have it.

There are 2 holes for it to fit into and then you turn it back in.

The front brakes compress back in you don't have to turn them. Its because the rear act as a Parking brake.

Here's a link to the tool
Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

 

T

tderrick

Member

Oct 27, 2004

312

0

17

Jul 12, 2008

#10

• Jul 12, 2008

• #10

Is that tool set just for the screw in rears or will it work on the compression type fronts as well??

 

S351Saleen77

Member

Jun 27, 2002

423

0

16

Washington

Jul 12, 2008

#11

• Jul 12, 2008

• #11

tderrick said:

Is that tool set just for the screw in rears or will it work on the compression type fronts as well??

Click to expand...

It will work on the fronts also. Just leave a old pad in and push on it to compress. You don't have to put on one of the disks. The different disks are for different size pistons and hole placement.

I think it was a Chilton book I read to turn the piston back in with pliers. I just did some and there was NO way that would have worked. They are normally pretty hard to start turning and you can tear the rubber seal pretty easy with the pliers slipping out.

They had the tool on sale for $19.99 @ harbour freight and I had a 20% off coupon so I think I paid $15.99!!