Voltage Regulator Wires on Alternator

[speedytang]

I have been test running my car for about 2 weeks checking for any leaks since the twin turbo install and today I had a small fire under the hood. I have a 130amp alternator installed which was not the problem but the plug for the regulator is at the top and my water line on top of the intake some how(leaning on it) was smashed on the connector which put the hose clamp right on the wires and caused them to short out while the engine was running causing a wire insulator fire which I blew out since the main alternator fuse blew. I repaired the wires at the connector but no alternator power when I start the car. Yes I replaced the fuse but I was wondering before I take the alternator off to have bench tested if the wires from the regulator connector have fusible links. I also wondered if someone has the procedure to test the regulator since that was what got crossed. Regulator is only $35 and a rebuilt alternator is $140. If someone even has a wiring diagram that is color coded that would be great also.
Thanks

 

[HISSIN50]

Wiring diagrams are easier for folks to provide when the year of stang is known.

In general, for wiring at the regulator:
I = Ignition. This wire is key-on hot.
S = Stator.
A = sense wire. It's connected to the battery via the stock charge wires.
This last one (A) is the only wire which has its own fusible link that I recall. You can check it real quick with the car off to see if the wire is open.

Good luck.

 

[speedytang]

Sorry. 89 GT and Thanks

 

[speedytang]

I have converted to a 135amp and I am using the 2ga to the starter relay if that makes a difference for some reason. I will take my Multimeter and find the other end of 'A' to see if the wire is open and check for voltage on 'I' but I don't see still how I can test if the regulator is stopping me from charging or if I fried the rectifier if these new units have one. I guess I will take it in for bench test if everything else test OK.
Thanks

 

[HISSIN50]

You're doing as well as I could. I'd look for the voltage at I (12 volts, key-on) and A (constant, same as battery) and S (can't remember for sure - I think it's about half of battery voltage. JRichker or someone will know). If I have atleast the I and A voltages and the alt is acting pooey, I take it in for a bench test.

FFI has an article on replacing the regulator if you need to.

Good luck.

 

[jrichker]

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ Everyone should bookmark this site.

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

HVAC vacuum diagram
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Mustang_AC_heat_vacuum_controls.gif

 

[speedytang]

Excellent...Thanks