Vortech Efi 5.0

MHenry1282 · Feb 13, 2015

Hey all, new to fox bodies. I'm coming from an 07 Stage 3 Roush, so f/i isn't new to me. I recently picked up a used Vortech V7 with a cog drive on it. I'm looking at going to an 8 rib set up and only spinning it to around 10 lbs of boost so I don't destroy this motor. Just wondering what kind of fuel pump(s), injectors, maf, etc that I should upgrade while installing the blower. Motor is a mild build with a BBK CAI, GT40 heads, 70 or 75 mm throttle body, E303 cam, .020 bore, and I believe a 155lph fuel pump in there now. It's currently at my buddies shop getting subframe connectors welded in, then I have to finish getting the rust out of the floorboards for a new interior. It's going to be at least a week or so before I start the install of the blower, just want to get as much ordered so I don't have to wait on it.

Thanks for the help!

haav2 · Feb 13, 2015

Hey there, I'm currently doing a similar build like yours. I have a 5.0 L vortec v3. bored 20 over with forged internals, gt40 heads and bbk 5001 intake setup,70mm tb w/40lb injectors. I have a t-Rex secondary fuel pump that came with my vortec that is supposed to help the stock pump. And also a Sct big air 90mm maf. I've started it for the first time last week and no problems except that I have to get it custom tuned. You also might want to order yourself and oil catch can and plug it into two breathers on your valve covers to evacuate excess crankcase pressure or else you'll blow out your dipstick on hard revs.

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2000xp8 · Feb 14, 2015

Use 42lb injectors with a pro m mass air meter calibrated for 42's. This way you have it tuned because you want to, not because you have to with a lightning or cobra meter.

Don't run the cog drive, they are hard on street cars and if something goes wrong you can really damage some parts. At your level you shouldn't have any real belt slip issues.

Run a gss340 high pressure 255 walbro pump, forget the t trex it's useless. You could use aeromtive 340 too. They are both in tank easy replacement pumps. The walbro is way cheaper and will support 500rwhp+ by itself.

Either TB is fine, not going to change much.

Edit: Are you use a v7 Ysi? I'd consider selling or trading it and getting an S trim. Much more useable power at your level. The ysi is for people that want 650rwhp+.

MHenry1282 · Feb 14, 2015

It came with the cog drive, I am going to switch over to an 8 rib setup. It is the V7 YSI. I'm just tuning down the boost for this motor, I'm looking for a used aftermarket block to build a forged bottom end in, then turn it back up. Any suggestions on where to order the injectors and maf from?

I was planning on doing a turbo build, but I got the V7 kit for a pretty good price on ebay, that's the only reason that I'm running this one.

Thanks for the input, at least I have somewhere to start with the air and fuel side of things. Is a chip and tune necessary on these with the s/c? The car had a catch can installed when I got it. Just got the car back from getting the subframe connectors welded in, still have to finish with the rust repair in the floorboards today and tomorrow. Something was leaking pretty good in the passenger floor. My initial thought was the heater core, but the lines were removed from the firewall for that. Only other thing that I can think of is the a/c condenser...

2000xp8 · Feb 14, 2015

The chip and tune thing is debatable. I used to stand firmly with the opinion that it's a waste of time and money, but have come to realize it's a waste of time and money for me because I have help at my disposal that are extremely experienced, others do not, so I've lightened up on it a little (at least for SC cars)
Some hate the FMU, imo it works fine.
I think experience level would be the determining factor, just remember it was done for years without chips or dyno tunes on foxes, so...

Not sure 42's are made anymore, so ebay would be the place for them. An 80, 85, 90mm pro m or pmas can be had a bunch of places. The company has changed hands a bunch of times at this point.

The leak probably was the core, that's likely why it's disconnected.

MHenry1282 · Feb 14, 2015

Guess that'll save me some money if I don't have to tune! Wish there was a respectable tuner that I knew of in the area to have it done after the s/c install, just to do it. What a/f ratio do these motors like with f/i, 12.5:1? I'm looking at ordering the BBK fuel rails, BBK adjustable fuel pressure regulator, walbro 255 lph pump, and bosch 42 lb/hr injectors (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1Pc-42lbs-Fuel-Injectors-Bosch-EV1-Style-0280150558-Replacement-440cc-42-lb-hr-/231412132944?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AMustang&hash=item35e13cec50&vxp=mtr). Anything else to put on the order list to get this thing ready? Thanks again for the help!

2000xp8 · Feb 15, 2015

I haven't kept up with the injectors, the 42's I know are the green tops. Not to say others aren't fine, that's just what i'm used to.

No need to get the fuel rails, the stock ones will handle more power than the block does.

Make sure you map out your entire plan 100% before you start buying parts. There are a few ways to make the car run right so it will help you avoid buying things twice.

Do you have a boost retard? FMU? Wideband to read a/f?

For a while my guys ran the Abaco DBX meter without the FMU, but they found the quality to be inconsistent.

MHenry1282 · Feb 15, 2015

That's pretty much what I'm trying to do now, get a complete shopping list so I don't have to stop in the middle of the install. I will be ordering the MSD 6-BTM and a autometer wideband. FMU's are new to me. Really don't know anything about them with these cars.
Instead of the MSD BTM and messing around with FMU's, would something like the MegaSquirt pnp2 be more beneficial, and easier to tune? Thanks again for the help, time to get back and finish getting this heater core out and the rusted floor pans cleaned up!

2000xp8 · Feb 15, 2015

I can't say for sure. These guys will know. My guys always did foxes with the fmu and btm. There is a bunch of ways to do computer tunes, but I don't know enough to suggest any of them.

I do know the autometer wideband isn't the most popular, not saying it's bad, but you will probably find the consensus on the wideband to be the innovate or Aem.

MHenry1282 · Feb 15, 2015

A friend of mine was just telling me about some that he worked on years ago. Guess I'll give that route a shot. Is there a formula to figure out what fmu is needed? How do you go about getting the mass air meter recal'd if you need to? Just curious. Just looked up the walboro pump. Blew my mind that it was only $100, had to go the gt500 pumps in my last car that were $700 and had to have a new tune written that was somewhere around another $200. Here's what I have so far:
Innovate Wideband
MSD 6-BTM
Walboro GSS340BX
Pro-M cal'd for 42# injectors
42# injectors

So I guess all that's left is the fmu, correct? I've been doing tons of reading trying to figure all this out! Thanks again for all the input.

Edit: just found a Granatelli 75mm mas air flow sensor for 42# injectors, would that be just as good as the Pro-M or not? He's only asking $95 for it.

mikestang63 · Feb 16, 2015

If you hae 42# injectors, forget about the fmu and get a tune instead. You will not need to get the MAF recaibbrated as the tune wlll take care of that as well.

Don't waste your money on a GMS ANYTHING. Get a Pro M MAF. At least 80MM for your setup or a LMAF.

2000xp8 · Feb 16, 2015

The granitelli probably is a pro m bullet, but regardless, i'd still go with the 80, 85, or 90 with an Anderson ford power pipe.

MHenry1282 · Feb 16, 2015

Don't have any reputable tuners that I've been able to find within a couple hours drive, that's why I was looking at the stand alone setups. If I can safely get by with running an fmu until I build my next block, I'll give it a shot. I'll have to keep looking for a bigger mass air sensor, the 75mm one I found was one of the first to pop up on google. I'm guessing the Anderson power pipes work well with the fox bodies? I heard nothing but complaints and tuning issues with them on the S197 platform.

2000xp8 · Feb 16, 2015

Foxes and 96+ cars are nothing alike, the fox will adapt to damn near anything. The Anderson pipes are preferred on a foxbody. You get more boost and the meter goes in the fender.

I've seen cars with no computer tuning make 650rwhp, I've even heard of guys at the 700rwhp mark (haven't seen it though in person).

MHenry1282 · Feb 16, 2015

I'll have to give Anderson a shout tomorrow to see exactly which one I'll need. 4:1 fmu should work for 10 lbs, shouldn't it?

mikestang63 · Feb 17, 2015

MHenry1282 said:
I'll have to give Anderson a shout tomorrow to see exactly which one I'll need. 4:1 fmu should work for 10 lbs, shouldn't it?

The color disc in the FMU is calibrated to the injector not the boost #

19#/Hr.- 12:1- 2.7215"
24#/Hr.- 8:1 -2.2220"
30#/Hr.- 6:1 -1.8525"
38-42#/Hr.- 4:1- 1.5910"

You can get them from Vortech, Summit or Ebay. Like I said though, if you have 42# or higher injectors, no need for an FMU. Get a tune as the FMU is merely a band aid that regulates the return fuel pressure from 1:1 to whatever the disc is depending on the injector size to increase the boost FP.

General rule of thumb on the FMU disc is -Calibration X boost + appx 1/2 of base pressure.

In your case if you have 42# ers

4:1 x 10# of boost + 20= 60# of FP

Change the first variable if you have smaller injectors say 24#

8:1 x 10# of boost + 20=100# of FP

See how the FMU increases the FP if you have smaller injectors yet the boost stays the same and why I recommend 42# and a tune?

A tune will also pull timing out for you as you increase boost so no need for a BTM.

MHenry1282 · Feb 17, 2015

Are there any reputable tuners that do remote tuning on f/i motors? I'm not sure where the closest one to me would be (I'm in between Pensacola and Destin, FL) to take it for a dyno tune.

mikestang63 · Feb 18, 2015

MHenry1282 said:
Are there any reputable tuners that do remote tuning on f/i motors? I'm not sure where the closest one to me would be (I'm in between Pensacola and Destin, FL) to take it for a dyno tune.

Your best bet truly is to find a local guy who can dyno tune the car vs. a mail order.

Have you called Jake Lamotta or Ford Performance Solutions? I highly recommend Steve at Thunder Auto in Boynton Beach FL.. He has tuned all my cars for decades but I don't know if he does mail order tunes. Another quality tuner is Willie Figueroa or Chris Johnson at SCT- formerly JMS.

Avoid Bama tunes.

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