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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

Vortech oil supply, look and see if I have it right

  • Thread starter Thread starter 99FiveOh
  • Start date Start date Feb 16, 2007

99FiveOh

15 Year Member
May 20, 2006
2,051
20
99
J-Ville, FL
Feb 16, 2007
#1
  • Feb 16, 2007
  • #1
I didn't buy my S trim as a kit so I have had to piece some of it together. This oil supply has got me confused, but I think I have it right.

I wasn't able to find a 45* elbow so I used a 90* instead. If the oil sender is facing straight down, will it interfere with anything?

Pics of it installed would be awsome!

Here's the pic of what i have put together:
View attachment 402977
 

HGFireHazard

Member
Apr 10, 2005
460
0
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40
Michigan
Feb 17, 2007
#2
  • Feb 17, 2007
  • #2
The hardest part in dealing with the piping and the sender for me was getting the connector back onto the sender. I don't have the car here and won't until March 1st, but I'll look to see if I have any pictures of it. I remember seeing a picture of someone that had a real clean engine bay, and I believe they had a A/C delete and it showed their setup really well, I'll see if I can find that as well. Aside from that, bump.
 

Red1990Lx

Member
Nov 2, 2006
79
0
7
Ohio
Feb 17, 2007
#3
  • Feb 17, 2007
  • #3
Link no worky!!!
 

99FiveOh

15 Year Member
May 20, 2006
2,051
20
99
J-Ville, FL
Feb 17, 2007
#4
  • Feb 17, 2007
  • #4
Works now.

Doesn't matter anyway, I installed it today and all went well. Lemme tell you, this S/C install was ALOT more work than I anticipated! I started at about noon today and I just got home at mid night. And it's still not done. I still have to install the BTM and some other things. But at least the blower is mounted, oil to and from the head unit is ran.

I can't wait to feel what this thing does for my car. I'm hoping it's enough to make all this damn money and work worth it!
 

S/CBlack95GT

New Member
Apr 6, 2003
2,018
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0
46
Tampa Palms, FL
Feb 18, 2007
#5
  • Feb 18, 2007
  • #5
Yours looks fine. Here is mine. Just note Im using a remotely located oil pressure sender so that is the braided line you see.

 

99FiveOh

15 Year Member
May 20, 2006
2,051
20
99
J-Ville, FL
Feb 18, 2007
#6
  • Feb 18, 2007
  • #6
Thanks for the pic man! Mine pretty much went right in. I did have to point my oil sender in the up position though because in the down position the connector would reach it. There was plenty of room for it to be pointing up so I don't think it will hurt anything.

Can anybody get me a pic of how their power pipe is ran?
 
G

Green 94 5.0

Founding Member
Mar 25, 2002
2,601
12
79
46
Ft. Lauderdale, FL
hurricaneperformance.org
Feb 18, 2007
#7
  • Feb 18, 2007
  • #7
http://roger.tiora.net/mustang/011707/M01A0014.JPG
http://roger.tiora.net/mustang/011707/M01A0015.JPG
 

final5-0

Mustang Master
Apr 6, 2003
6,817
12
79
DFW Texas
Feb 18, 2007
#8
  • Feb 18, 2007
  • #8
On your very first test drive
and
Before you beat on it for the very first time

Don't make the same mistake I've seen others make

Ensure you got plenty of fuel and the spark is plenty low
maybe even
Too low for the first drive or two

You don't wanna have to do a hg change out
right off the bat like those other peeps had to do

Good Luck

Grady
 

HGFireHazard

Member
Apr 10, 2005
460
0
17
40
Michigan
Feb 18, 2007
#9
  • Feb 18, 2007
  • #9
One other thing I had a problem with (that you may not) was oil leaking out of the block where the piping and the block meet. The Vortech directions say to absolutely not use thread sealer, but I had to use it on every connection down there to get it to stop. In the end I pulled that sucker out of there 4 or 5 times and it was just a big hassle... so keep your eyes open.
 

99FiveOh

15 Year Member
May 20, 2006
2,051
20
99
J-Ville, FL
Feb 18, 2007
#10
  • Feb 18, 2007
  • #10
well, I bought my system used so I used teflon tape on the pipe going into the block only, but I used it sparingly.

Grady, I just drove it normal on the way home. I know my base timing is at 12* right now, but I put the BTM on "3" to be safe. I got it done pretty late tonight and I was far from home so I just baby'd it.

It felt real nice and even taking off from a stop sign I could feel the power wanting to unleash itself.

I'm having problems though with my bypass valve. It's a Vortech Racing bypass and it came with my kit. The guy that sold it to me said I'm supposed to let it vent to the atmosphere, but I think I need to route it to the power pipe because it's making the car run funny and bleeding air off all the time.
 

Red1990Lx

Member
Nov 2, 2006
79
0
7
Ohio
Feb 18, 2007
#11
  • Feb 18, 2007
  • #11
The_Mustang said:
well, I bought my system used so I used teflon tape on the pipe going into the block only, but I used it sparingly.

Grady, I just drove it normal on the way home. I know my base timing is at 12* right now, but I put the BTM on "3" to be safe. I got it done pretty late tonight and I was far from home so I just baby'd it.

It felt real nice and even taking off from a stop sign I could feel the power wanting to unleash itself.

I'm having problems though with my bypass valve. It's a Vortech Racing bypass and it came with my kit. The guy that sold it to me said I'm supposed to let it vent to the atmosphere, but I think I need to route it to the power pipe because it's making the car run funny and bleeding air off all the time.
Click to expand...

Our mass air meter'ed cars need to be vented to the power pipe, speed density doesn't have to, it can vent it to the atmosphere. 5.0 Magazine just had that in their Super Charger set-up on a stock block!
 

99FiveOh

15 Year Member
May 20, 2006
2,051
20
99
J-Ville, FL
Feb 19, 2007
#12
  • Feb 19, 2007
  • #12
Great! Hi Ho, Hi Ho, it's back to Lowes I go!!!
 
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