Calm down notch back fever. Trunks are for hauling groceries. This guy is obviously not an azz man. He's had two assless cars the old cougar and the notch.
Both of which will currently wipe the floor with your hatchback.
....and the Coupe will do it afterwards too.
I hear ya but damn $300 for used!? Who wants used injectors!? Kinda gross, like eBay undies. The tune will only run around $250. So I guess if things at the tune go bad I'll be looking at injectors, if it goes fair enough I'm gonn let it ride.
You can get a set of green 42lb/hr FRPP injectors new for about $300 and half of that used. Those will more than support your horsepower needs.
This was a fabulous exchange btw
In order for the belt routing to work properly you will need a smog delete bracket to replace the missing smog pump.I just ordered the same kit and it was mentioned that I might need a smog pump elim. bracket. Right now im running just an alt and p/s pump. How does the accessory belt configuration change? I will get some pics of the front of my engine here in a bit, but I just want to know if I need that bracket or not so that I can have it ordered and ready since it takes 10 years to ship stuff to Alaska.
Ha you got me... $300 new. As for the ribbing I'm a whitty basta&d I can hang w the best of em. As per the injectors; man I hear ya but just don't have the scratch.Read it again....
Half of $300 would be $150.
I've bought and run used injectors half a dozen times. Never have I had an issue. Injectors are one of those parts that just takes a licking and keeps on ticking. Generally, the biggest worry you have with used injectors is whether or not they need a cleaning.
Had to be done.
160 lb injectors!?!?The fmu really does work well in a mostly stock application. Its designed to do a certain job and performs well when used as designed. As far as I'm concerned spin the dyno rollers or simply install a wide band and see where you are at. If thebaf ratio is acceptable then rock it the way it is. If not then tune it. The increased cost of mass air and injectors may be unwarranted.
As for used injectors... I am not a fan. I will only consider buying used injectors after they have been cleaned, flow tested and proven to be in good order. I have seen plenty of people wind up screwed because they tried to save a few bucks. Just last year I had 4 160 lb injectors fail on me personally. When put under a back pressure on the discharge side (under boost) they would lock up. I bought them used and after only using them for a year or so I've now replaced them with brand new bilet atomizers...
This is the power level I will be at for the relatively long haul. I'm calling it done under the hood (for now maybe) and moving on to interior. The interior project might be slow going at first, I gotta recover from this $upercharger. Upon completion of the interior it will be a "finished" project. So maybe after that who knows may do heads etc. I know y'all hate it but I'm going to go on and say it: Anyone wanna guess my rwhp now? Before the v3 I made 223.I ran an FMU and 19s for several years. I even got pretty good at making small adjustments to the setup to keep AFR in the sweet spot.
Either method can be done very well. Larger injectors etc. are the path for the long haul where continued improvements requiring more fuel will be made.
T-stat housing leak.Very well done Mike. Go back and recheck all the bolts, clamps, and belt. Try and stay out of the pedal until you get it tuned. Make sure you use 93 gas and retard the timing.
I always suck at em. Measure once, cut twice....AHHH P.I.T.A.
Thanks man. Anyone know where to set the in car controller knob for the msd box? The one that's 0,1,2,3. I have a mild cam, ported ho lower and e7's if that provides any useful info. Oh and fmu 19#ersGreat progress on your S/C though.
You referring to the timing retard knob?Thanks man. Anyone know where to set the in car controller knob for the msd box? The one that's 0,1,2,3. I have a mild cam, ported ho lower and e7's if that provides any useful info. Oh and fmu 19#ers
Thanks man. Anyone know where to set the in car controller knob for the msd box? The one that's 0,1,2,3. I have a mild cam, ported ho lower and e7's if that provides any useful info. Oh and fmu 19#ers
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