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Build Thread Want To Blow 5 Years And $50k On A Foxbody? Step By Step Instructions Inside!

  • Thread starter Thread starter RacEoHolic330
  • Start date Start date Nov 13, 2011
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1991notchbackLX

Active Member
Dec 25, 2007
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48
New York
Mar 18, 2012
#201
  • Mar 18, 2012
  • #201
VibrantRedGT said:
Those rubber couplings won't collapse under boost?
Click to expand...

Think about this question for a minute...
 

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master
Nov 29, 1999
9,692
95
99
PA
Mar 18, 2012
#202
  • Mar 18, 2012
  • #202
1991notchbackLX said:
Think about this question for a minute...
Click to expand...

What can I say it was late OH they wont blow off either
 

RacEoHolic330

I like to dress like a pretty girl
15 Year Member
Mar 4, 2003
4,014
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Allentown, PA
Apr 1, 2012
#203
  • Apr 1, 2012
  • #203
It's been tough to find time lately to work on the car, but I did manage to figure out the wastegate situation. I will say though, that it took me foooorrrrevvveeerrr to a) determine the best place to put the wastegate so it didn't interfere with anything and b) to actually cut the pipes accurately enough so I don't have huge gaps when it comes time to weld.

Part of the challenge for the wastegate placement was that I needed to position it so that I could fit a flex bellow between the discharge and the downpipe. I also wanted the discharge to connect to the downpipe in a configuration that would enable the exhaust from the wastegate to flow in the same direction as the exhaust from the turbine housing. I didn't want the wastegate discharge to have to "fight" the exhaust from the turbine in fear that it would affect its ability to control boost.

Here's the picture from the previous page again to show the clearance issue between the gate and the BOV


Here are the pipes that I labored over for hours (literally) to get them just the way I needed them to be:


Attached to the wastegate:



And tack welded in place:



Good radiator clearance:


I should have some time tomorrow to finsh up all the final details of the turbo piping. I just need to weld hangers to the downpipe and y-pipe as well as weld up whatever pipes that are still tacked together. Then everything can FINALLY be sent to Jet-Hot.
 

hoopty5.0

mechanicus terribilis
15 Year Member
Dec 14, 2010
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SW Houston
Apr 1, 2012
#204
  • Apr 1, 2012
  • #204
Nice, Scott. How much money would you say you have tied up in the tubing with regard to initial purchase? You got it from Mandrebends.com?
 

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
10,641
8,909
234
Birmingham, al
Apr 1, 2012
#205
  • Apr 1, 2012
  • #205
It is a real challenge saying stuff today,....The board is pink, purple and blue, and keeps swinging back and forth.
Great looking work Scott. Glad you figured out your piping dilemma. Why did you have to wrack your brain on the solution? Looks like an "OH yeah, that'll work" to me.
 

Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
Admin Dude
Jan 4, 1985
43,194
21,364
234
Box behind Walmart
Apr 1, 2012
#206
  • Apr 1, 2012
  • #206
Please hurry up and complete this project so that you can move out to my place for a month or two and do mine.
 
Reactions: RacEoHolic330

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
10,641
8,909
234
Birmingham, al
Apr 1, 2012
#207
  • Apr 1, 2012
  • #207
Noobz347 said:
Please hurry up and complete this project so that you can move out to my place for a month or two and do mine.
Click to expand...

You should concentrate on making the board stop swaying
 

Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
Admin Dude
Jan 4, 1985
43,194
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Box behind Walmart
Apr 1, 2012
#208
  • Apr 1, 2012
  • #208
madmike1157 said:
You should concentrate on making the board stop swaying
Click to expand...

Not sure what you're talking about.
 

Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
Admin Dude
Jan 4, 1985
43,194
21,364
234
Box behind Walmart
Apr 1, 2012
#209
  • Apr 1, 2012
  • #209
A remote twin turbo setup on my Dart block.
 

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
10,641
8,909
234
Birmingham, al
Apr 1, 2012
#210
  • Apr 1, 2012
  • #210
Noobz347 said:
Not sure what you're talking about.
Click to expand...
Thank you. I consider myself..."fooled".
 

RacEoHolic330

I like to dress like a pretty girl
15 Year Member
Mar 4, 2003
4,014
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Allentown, PA
Apr 1, 2012
#211
  • Apr 1, 2012
  • #211
hoopty5.0 said:
Nice, Scott. How much money would you say you have tied up in the tubing with regard to initial purchase? You got it from Mandrebends.com?
Click to expand...

I probably have about $350 in the piping and V-band flanges that I bought. All the piping is from MandrelBends, and the V-band flanges are from RacePartsSolutions.com. I could have saved money if I got everything all at once, but I had to make about 2 or 3 extra purchases later on where I had to pay $12 to ship a $20 part. I would venture to say that an entire hotside could be built for around $600 in parts. That would include both headers, crossover, downpipe, y-pipe, and all flanges.

Edit: I would add around $100 in welding gas to that number. There is A LOT of welding to do, and the gas never seems to last as long as you think it would.

madmike1157 said:
Why did you have to wrack your brain on the solution? Looks like an "OH yeah, that'll work" to me.
Click to expand...

Determining the actual position of the wastegate didn't take too long, but the execution of making it actually happen took some time for whatever reason. I think I was having an off day. It also didn't help that I was trying to use the leftover 1.75" piping from my header rebuild. I really needed another 90 degree bend piece, but instead of spending $30 to get one shipped to my house, I made one that I had laying around work.
 

hoopty5.0

mechanicus terribilis
15 Year Member
Dec 14, 2010
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Apr 1, 2012
#212
  • Apr 1, 2012
  • #212
Sheesh. Well maybe it'd be easier to overbuy and then sell off the rest after fab is done?
 

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
10,641
8,909
234
Birmingham, al
Apr 1, 2012
#213
  • Apr 1, 2012
  • #213
RacEoHolic330 said:
I probably have about $350 in the piping and V-band flanges that I bought. All the piping is from MandrelBends, and the V-band flanges are from RacePartsSolutions.com. I could have saved money if I got everything all at once, but I had to make about 2 or 3 extra purchases later on where I had to pay $12 to ship a $20 part. I would venture to say that an entire hotside could be built for around $600 in parts. That would include both headers, crossover, downpipe, y-pipe, and all flanges.

Edit: I would add around $100 in welding gas to that number. There is A LOT of welding to do, and the gas never seems to last as long as you think it would.



Determining the actual position of the wastegate didn't take too long, but the execution of making it actually happen took some time for whatever reason. I think I was having an off day. It also didn't help that I was trying to use the leftover 1.75" piping from my header rebuild. I really needed another 90 degree bend piece, but instead of spending $30 to get one shipped to my house, I made one that I had laying around work.
Click to expand...
welcome to the "spend an extra afternoon trying to make it work club"I do that all the time. I feel ya on the tubing. I have welded pieces-parts together to make what would've been another U or J bend that I just didn't have.
And you're migging all of this right? I could never get the weld bead small enough to look good, and ended up spending another buttload of time grinding and smoothing the welds flush. What are you doing?
 

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
10,641
8,909
234
Birmingham, al
Apr 1, 2012
#214
  • Apr 1, 2012
  • #214
hoopty5.0 said:
Sheesh. Well maybe it'd be easier to overbuy and then sell off the rest after fab is done?
Click to expand...

Most places will let you send back the extra, provided it didn't last longer than a month after the purchase.
 

RacEoHolic330

I like to dress like a pretty girl
15 Year Member
Mar 4, 2003
4,014
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Allentown, PA
Apr 1, 2012
#215
  • Apr 1, 2012
  • #215
I would definitely buy a couple of extra bends and straight pieces. It's better to spend an extra $50 in pipe than to realize you don't have enough pipe to finish everything up. You will be nickled and dimed to death by all those extra shipping costs.

I'm going to bump original parts estimate from $600 to around $900. I threw some parts in a shopping cart at MandrelBends and came to around $650 without shipping. Add shipping, flanges and clamps from RaceParts, and any other odds and ends. It's probably safe to say that a complete hotside to the mufflers will cost around $1000 all welded up. Thennnnn you have to (or at least shoul) send it off to get it all coated. There's another couple hundred there. See how fun this turbo piping stuff is!
 

RacEoHolic330

I like to dress like a pretty girl
15 Year Member
Mar 4, 2003
4,014
1,698
203
Allentown, PA
Apr 1, 2012
#216
  • Apr 1, 2012
  • #216
madmike1157 said:
And you're migging all of this right? I could never get the weld bead small enough to look good, and ended up spending another buttload of time grinding and smoothing the welds flush. What are you doing?
Click to expand...

I am indeed migging all of this. I used a method that is essentially just a series of tack welds laid on top of each other. I put the welder on its hottest setting and kept the feed speed a little high to get good penetration. It's time consuming, but it creates a flatter weld that will require a whole lot less grinding in the end. I'm not griding all the welds down smooth, but I will clean up some of the high spots. They still came out nice enough without any grinding if you ask me.


 

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
10,641
8,909
234
Birmingham, al
Apr 1, 2012
#217
  • Apr 1, 2012
  • #217
So, your pulsing the welder? I do it w/ my exhaust tubing. Your right, it looks good enough for me too. What color are you gonna coat the stuff. I used Jet hot as well, they have a black coating that has the highest heat rating of any of them. Kinda has a finish like they added sand to the mix. I had it on the hotside of my TT Conquest.
 

hoopty5.0

mechanicus terribilis
15 Year Member
Dec 14, 2010
7,789
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SW Houston
Apr 1, 2012
#218
  • Apr 1, 2012
  • #218
RacEoHolic330 said:
I would definitely buy a couple of extra bends and straight pieces. It's better to spend an extra $50 in pipe than to realize you don't have enough pipe to finish everything up. You will be nickled and dimed to death by all those extra shipping costs.

I'm going to bump original parts estimate from $600 to around $900. I threw some parts in a shopping cart at MandrelBends and came to around $650 without shipping. Add shipping, flanges and clamps from RaceParts, and any other odds and ends. It's probably safe to say that a complete hotside to the mufflers will cost around $1000 all welded up. Thennnnn you have to (or at least shoul) send it off to get it all coated. There's another couple hundred there. See how fun this turbo piping stuff is!
Click to expand...

Scott, you're scaring me!

Hopefully I can benefit from used parts in some places.


Your welds look great though. what kind of MIG is it? I'm thinking of buying one instead of hauling everything to my buddies shop again.
 

RacEoHolic330

I like to dress like a pretty girl
15 Year Member
Mar 4, 2003
4,014
1,698
203
Allentown, PA
Apr 1, 2012
#219
  • Apr 1, 2012
  • #219
madmike1157 said:
So, your pulsing the welder? I do it w/ my exhaust tubing. Your right, it looks good enough for me too. What color are you gonna coat the stuff. I used Jet hot as well, they have a black coating that has the highest heat rating of any of them. Kinda has a finish like they added sand to the mix. I had it on the hotside of my TT Conquest.
Click to expand...

I'd like to do the polished 1300 degree coating on at least the headers and crossover. I'm a sucker for shiny headers. The downpipe will be wrapped, so I may ask them which coating would hold up best when wrapped. I don't care about that being shiny.


hoopty5.0 said:
Scott, you're scaring me!

Hopefully I can benefit from used parts in some places.

Your welds look great though. what kind of MIG is it? I'm thinking of buying one instead of hauling everything to my buddies shop again.
Click to expand...

Sorry! Just trying to give you a realistic expectation of what the cost will be. It all adds up so fast. I'm just using a little Licoln Electric 135. Small, but good enough for my pursposes.
 

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
10,641
8,909
234
Birmingham, al
Apr 1, 2012
#220
  • Apr 1, 2012
  • #220
hoopty5.0 said:
Scott, you're scaring me!

Hopefully I can benefit from used parts in some places.


Your welds look great though. what kind of MIG is it? I'm thinking of buying one instead of hauling everything to my buddies shop again.
Click to expand...

I don't know where you are getting your mandrel bends, but I always get mine at Summit. Hooker bends are 16 ga. mild steel that cost about 20.00 a bend for 1" 3/4-7/8 tubing.
 
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